MANWHOR3

Whoa, that's crazy. i've heard rumours of it, but i never thought it was possible to stab a tyre since it has metal in it.

For those that can't be bothered to read what i've written above, aftermarket hid is bad mkay? my authority for my arguemnt: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...onversions.html

I'm in sydney. I personally have them installed in my car atm. you can have a look at them before you install yours and you'll know what I mean. Even if you point them straight down, if I drive up to a wall, you'll know what I mean. About half of the light is focused down. the rest goes up in a general haze. Also, as I drive along, the fact that there is no clear cut off is obvious. Every sign goes fluoro, and I mean ultra fluoro even though the lights are pointed straight to the ground about 1.5 m in front of the car. Oh, btw, satanic, i'm not complaining about the light at all. yes, it is definitely brighter. In fact, they're a lot brighter. But i'm just letting the guys know about the very poor light throw. Zixor, you can come and stand in front of my car and walk down the street and see the glare. The fact is, yes, it helps you to see and makes you think it's safer. but for others, especially on a rainy day, the glare really kills them. I was driving behind my freind following him,a nd he told me how glary it was. projector headlights are different on the other hand. they manage to prevent the light going up, but still a halogen projector has hot spots and uneven light throw. Please understand that i'm not telling you that they're all bad. but please, if I can help one person, let it be you. please read this befoer you think about going ahead: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...onversions.html And no, my car is not stuffed. I used to be a freak about lights and i've bought 2 hid kits. Also bought different brands of bulbs. PS: my car is a sII r33 too.

sydneykid, that's quite interesting what you said above. I was just wondering whether the same applies to using a different offset wheel too? e.g. stock r32 gtr wheels are 16x8 +30. If I ran a 16x8 0 offset, that effectively brings the wheels out 3 cm right? Will this have the same effect?

Ok, sorry for the confusion guys. Basically, iv'e mixed up 2 questions. 1. I'm installing a turbo and some of the brackets have problems clearing. The steel is about 5mm thick? I can't bend it with my hands. Never really thought about heating it, but I don't have an oxy torch. 2. I'm also wondering whether it's possible to bend a strut brace. Comes form an r32 and fouls slightly on the heatpad. I want to straigihten out the bends so it sits lower.

PMs replied to. Still available guys.

Hey guys, Basically, I'm trying to adapt an r32 strut brace to my car and it's fouling on the bonnet slightly. I would just like to flatten the bend in it slightly. Can any of you guys in sydney with an oxy torch please help me? I'm located on the northshore, so if you're around me, that'd be awesome but i will drive a million ks to you if you're further away. heehhe. Thanks guys.

Hey guys, please leave this thread in the forced induction section, because it relates to fabricating for a turbo install, so I'm after advice from other guys who have done something similar. Basically, I need to bend this piece of metal. What is the best way to do it without snapping it? It's about 2 cm thick. If I just hammered it with a sledge hammer, i think it would snap.

My car took 6 months. Also, many cars just sit at the auction holding yard waiting to be sold and stuff for ages. A soarer that we imported sat for 9 months before it was bought. Basically, it'll be fine. I wouldn't worry about the fuel or anything. E.g. my car, on the dock, it needed a jump start, drove it straight off the dock to hobbs brothers, where I then drove it to compliance. simple.

Basically, there are two types of gaskets. A solid metal one and a thin metal with goo sandwitched between. When I took the dump off, I was prepared to change the gasket, since my time is worth more than the $5 it cost me to buy a gasket. But it turns out, that it actually had a very nice solid metal one, not that flimsyu sandwitch gasket. I kept the orignal one which was better. I guess it depends what yours looks like when you take it off.

They're talking about diff oil. that is what you put into the diff casing. I'm talking about the fluid in the culinder in the side of the boot. I don't think they're talking about that one?

After calling up a few places about my rims, it seems that they don't grind off wheel material at all. Rather, some places putty it and others weld it then paint it. Therefore, it shouldn't be any weaker. I'm actually contemplating whether to repair one of mine or not. I dunno, maybe I might just change wheels altogther.

These have been done many times on skylines and they do work. Won't be expensive at all. I actually have a link from r31 skylines.com where they install it into an rb20. If you want, I actually have a coilpack and leads that I was going to use on my car, but I was given a set of splitfires for christmas. I'm not looking for much.

Far out, I've never really seen any bars with big holes in them that look good. Most have looked ghetto, but damn!!!!! those pics are hot!

Hey T04gtr, I'm not distrusting you, but I was just wondering where you got that info from, because i've looked through all the skyline manuals 32-33 and well, i'm stumped. Doesnt' say anything.

It'll be fine mate. Our cars sit on the dock for even longer before we get them. I can't remmeber how long it was, but I think the buying, shipping, sitting, compliance etc of my car was about 6 months. Just drive easy. You don't need injector cleaner or octane booster or anything.

hahaha

um, Govic, I had a look at that thread that you linked to and it makes no mention of A-lsd. I'm not talking about the diff oil, i'm talking about the oil that the hydolic system uses to activate the lsd in the cars with A-LSD. Thanks for your help anyways.

just jap seems to offer 4k flat for damaged r33 gtsts with good engines. I know because 2 of my friends wrote there's off. I suppose an r32 would be worth around 2.5-3k from them. If you can be bothered to part it off, you might get a bit more than that.

I was told not to go to court over traffic offences, because if you lose, it gets recorded on your record. That is, it is no longer a traffic infringement. Then every time that you wanna go to america or something, it takes ages for you to be cleared. Is this true?

There is no hostility or hatred going on here, just merely pointing out that most of the weight comes from superior parts, such as motor (and ancilliaries e.g. bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, etc, every small thing adds weight) and much bigger box. I was also merely pointing out that r ugly poo owners call r33s whales for being heavy when once these upgrades are installed into an r32, the weight is not that different, but at the end of the day, the interior still looks like a vn commo and the exterior is not far off a vl. But in reply to the thread, sr20 since the car is designed for an sr. Much better/easier fit (an rb20/25 is really tight. try and find a pic of one). much better weight balance. plenty of power for the lighter car.

No point trying to mount it factory looking. If you notice how crap the light throw is when installing aftermarket hid into reflector headlights, it goes everywhere. Whenever you drive along the road, all the lights go fluoro coz the light is going up and will glare drivers. I wouldn't even bother about trying to hide the ballast. If you glare a cop, they will defect you even if they dont' find the ballast

You'll actually be suprised, but a significant portion of the difference in weight between an r32 and r33 is actually the motor and gearbox. This goes to all of those homos calling r33s boats. I'm not just making this up off the top of my head. I did an rb25 into r ugly poo (32). After helpinng a friend out with an rb25 swap into his r ugly poo, it weighed almost as much as an r33 gtst. So basically, to all you r32 lovers, the reason why your car is lighter is mainly because of the crap motor and crap gearbox.

price drop $400!

I wouldn't BUY second hand shocks, springs, bushes etc unless they are in very good condition.. That is, if you look at them, they look almost brand new. If you can get them for free or ultra cheap, they might be alright. Basically, at the end of the day, you'll be putting something a bit better into your car, but it won't be good. As siad above, noltec in thornleigh for bushes. They have everything - phone number in the phone book. heasmans also have good stuff.