MANWHOR3

I use the heater the car gets really nice and cozy inside and because it's blowing on the front window, there's no fog. I know it's not the best method to defog, but i'm cold

The engine bay is a total mess. there's oil everywhere. The heat pad thing is totally soaked. But, that's ok, it can be cleaned. I was just really worried that I might have killed the engine.

If you have an oiled pod like I used to, clearning it works wonders. Basically, if I ran my finger on the inside of the AFM (not on the element obviously), but on the black plastic bit, there was a greasy film, which was also black and dirty, since the pod let through quite a bit of dirt. A can of cc at dickos is like $20. I just bought the big one. hit the element with it every few seconds. as a plus side, it also dripped onto the bit around the outside and cleaned that too.

Ok, to cut a long story short, i'm normally very careful. But for some reason, tonight, I wasn't thinking straight. I did an oil change, and I forgot to put the oil cap back on. I went for a drive, and the care kept almost stalling on idle. I drove about 10 minutes, then pulled over. realised the cap wasn't on, put it on, then drove home. I didn't drive hard. never over 3k rpm. Not much boost, maybe 2 psi or something. The whole time, the oil pressure guage was still between 2-4. Now, I lost maybe about 300ml of oil or so, but that's not my main concern. Basically, it was still above the low on the dipstick. What I am concerned about, is whether having the cap open meant that there was no oil pressure and that I might have kileld the engine. Is it likely to be ok? Also, why does it want to stall if the cap is open? cheers guys.... hope the news is good.

hmmmm.... i'll look into it again tomorrow, but i'm pretty sure that it was oscillating around 0.8 I guess that sensor is worn then.

Scooby, emailed ya pics. Ok, I've got pics up now.

Hey Guys I ran consult on my car and graphed the output of the 02 sensor under different conditions. My car has stock ecu, so it is untuned. On idle, it was basically sitting around 0.8v. It would oscillate between 0.75 and 0.85. Holding a constant speed of 40km/h in 3rd on flat ground had it oscillating around about 0.7(0.65-0.75). Does this sound about right?

yep, these batteries are excellent. I too installed it by turning the terminal sideways. no problems at all. the batt clamp is like $4.95. Thanks Jerry for arranging the battery for me before. I might need another one before summer for the boat

I researched quite a bit into ftos when I bought my skyline. My overall impression of them is they are a nice cruiser, but are not overly quick. The handling is ok. I'd say it's comparable to a prelude in terms of performance and handling. you really need to get the engine cooking before it goes quick. But they are generally quite nice all overe. Perfect if your friend isn't really into 'performance' driving.

call nrma or a mobile locksmith

how about if someone actually says how to blled the syhstem and what fluid it uses?

Hey Chris Both the front r33 seat covers should be the same shouldn't they? so this would be perfect: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=123679 also dan (majanal) is selling his back seats I beleive.

it isn't essential for a sealed battery if it's up the front. Now that iv'e owned a skyline with a sealed battery, i would never go back thouguh. no more acid spills, no more acid powder and rust everywhere etc. You don't need such a massive battery. Before my stock battery died, the stock 330 cca battery worked wonders.

basically, the thread will be packed full of dirt and little rocks and crap. take the coilover out of the car. get some soap, like clothes powder. sprinkle it on the thread, and grab some steel wool. and scrub the thread as close to the seat as possible. I did it on mine, and the bucket had heaps of grit in the bottom. then spray wd 40 on the seat and thread and maybe tap it with a hammer. once it gets lose, disasemble it, then clean the thread on the seat and the rest of the coilover. will be like new.

wow, that's awesome. I have some aftermarket pedals that are clamped on and they keep coming lose.

Come on, please, someone with an r33 off the road. I'd offer mine up, but I use my car everyday. Hopefully someone will have one they can lend. Otherwise worst case scenario, I'll keep my eyes on the forsale section. I've seen r33 seats go for 100 bucks for the front 2 and 30 for the back. If I see a cheap one, maybe we can arrange something, like the cost of the seat covers would innclude the price of purchasing that seat divided by the number of seat covers purchased? cheers chris

There is no need to do any of that stuff. changing slave cylinder would make it nicer, but it will still work without it. Are you using the right length bolts? all OS clutches need shorter bolts. If not, it might actually not be connected at all.

IMO, you will not be ok. rb26s get destroyed just by having a tiny bit of ceramic going up back through the exhaust valves. If there are indeed metal filings in the piping and stuff, it woul dhave undoutably gone into the engine. drain the oil and run it thorugh some fitler paper and see if you see any grit in there.

These are good in theory, but not actually very good value. That fake leather stuff doesn't last long. I've had a set before, and after 3 years, it was looking very tired. Furthermore, those ones in the pics look like shit. the one you want is with the puffy middle. that's another $50. If the other group buy for about 350 goes ahead, it's better value. 350 for fake leather is ok, but 600 is way too expensive.

I would like to add somethign very important to this thread. I have spoken to UAT before. The prices are not quite exactly like that. Basically, as said above, 550 is the normal price. BUT, there is a 50$ postage fee on top of that. which makes it 600 as the normal price for 1 colour. From my negotiations last week, they said that they were willing to give a 10% discount AND wave the postage fee for purchases of 5-10. this means that it becomes 495 including postage. This is basically the same price as what you had above, except that you only need 5 to do it. The person I spoke to was an asian woman (forgot her name).

Thanks guys, nah, i just thought someone went happy modding on me. I suggested that cutting the fuel pump is not a good idea. especially at 9k rpm. Motors have been killed by a fuel pump failing at wot. Cutting the ignition would be a better idea.

What happened to my post? did one of you mods delete it?

his price seems to be 150 for 35% 240 for 15% so i'd imagine somethign in between that.

agreed.

Wow, that looks very different to my twin plate. Mine has a cover over it. what brand is it?