BobbysCustoms

Hi guys. Id like to run a the triple gauge cluster as fitted to GTR/260RS etc in my GTS-t for the purpose of having a voltage and oil temp guage without having to run aftermarket items. Was this an option on the GTS-t, or is it prewired at all? If not, am i able to wire it in? Id assume the voltage guage would be quite simple. Will there be a fitting somewhere on the RB20DET to run the RB26DET oil temp sender, or will the RB20DET have a sender already, just not wired to a gauge? For the boost gauge, would i be able to just wire it in parallel from the sensor mounted to the firewall that sends signal to the dash cluster? I know a second boost gauge is redundant but id rather have it working than sitting there with a non-moving needle. Thanks in advance.

BUUUMP! Pleeeaaaase somebody pop their bonnet, have a glance at the two small and one large line that connect to the charcoal canister and tell me where they go??? Thanks guys

#@Roy This Toshi guy will have a tune to suit my sort of combo? Rb20DET RB26 Cams with adjustable cam gears (+2 in, -4 ex) RB25 Turbocharger @11psi or so FMIC & cat back exhaust. Will be doing dump pipe, front pipe, highflow cat somewhere along the way, as well as a better fuel pump. How can i get in touch to chat to him directly? He on here as a member?

Hi guys. Putting engine back together and it seems the lines off my charcoal canister were just there for show. Anyone have the info on where each of the three lines goes? Two small ones I assume one will go to inlet somewhere and one comes from fuel tank- what about the large one?

Ok so I've got a set of bolts and a gasket on the way to get the thing back together once my head is ready to be picked up- just having it hot pressure tested. GTSboy your of the opinion that the boost I want to run will start to max out the duty cycle of the injectors, fuel pressure, as well what the afm is capable of reading...? I don't have the funds to throw it on a dyno- it's a bit of a budget toy. Tho if something needs upgrading as part of the typical modification process then happy to do it. Will later model injectors rectify the issue? And a Z32afm? Does this need to be calibrated? Will an aftermarket fuel pressure reg help the pressure drop? Really want to avoid leaning it out and damaging it.

Thanks for the quick reply. The faces look fine and measure up but yes i was concerned about how a metal gasket would seal (even with the plastic coating) without them being perfectly machined surfaces. Facing the head wouldnt be a huge issue but no way will i be pulling the block to have it decked. Im not sure what caused the leak - visual inspection just shows a gasket failure. The metal sealing ring is corroded to the point where it has allowed the rest of the gasket to deteriorate until it reached the water jacket. Further than that im not sure. Nothing indicates overheating really, tho it does have a replacement radiator so i wouldnt rule it out.

Hi guys, I have a 1992 R32 GTST, RB20DET. 130,XXX kms. Short story is im about to refit the head, and am curious to the pros/cons of a cometic metal head gasket, what thickness gasket i should run (1.3,1.8mm etc), and benefits of arp studs as opposed to standard head bolts. Bear with me as i give you more info than is possibly necessary - Head is off due to a leak from cyl6 to water jacket - bought the car 9 days ago and I pulled the head off last night. Engine ran healthy compression across all cylinders (including 6, actually) which I was happy to see. Still has cross hatching on bores, no lips or scoring etc and ive checked for taper and out of round. Super happy with the block. Head has all clean chambers, valves vac up fine, valves guides are tight enough and it measures straight down the cam tunnels and across the bottom face also. No corrosion. Gave it a clean and can find no cracks. Block deck is straight too. Piston height at TDC is equal across all cylinders. Im happy to simply refit the head. I have an RB25 turbocharger to fit, and will possibly upgrade again in the future. I have a turbosmart dual stage boost controller. Car has a large FMIC and a cat back exhaust which ill upgrade to turbo-back system later. I understand that it is sometimes good to have a weak point in the setup that is sacrificial in order to prevent damage to more expensive/difficult components to replace. Is that something I should be worrying about with such a mild setup? What thickness should i be running? Im happy to just keep standard but if a slight raise in compression is safe then i wouldnt mind doing that at the same time. Is it worth spending the extra cash on ARP head studs? I only expect to run 13psi tops for T&T's and night runs (unless more is still safe) and standard boost pressure all other times.

Chasing a rear parcel tray, pair of 17x9 or 10" wheels if you have them.