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And yeah you may say I'm a bit touchy because it's because of people like you that come on here and make silly remarks and unrelated comments about something that has nothing to do with the original question and put people down for not either agreeing with your opinion so or not wanting to play your games. That have turned so many people in the SAU Community away from asking for advice or answers to question specific the this cominuties forum because were sick and tired of having to deal with all the bulls@$t that comes with asking questions on here. Now when the admin were actually dedicated to the forum there was no crap like this. No stupid answers to things and no people getting put down for a defference of opinion. But also (AND THIS IS SOMETHING THE WHOLE COMMUNITY NEED TO UNDERSTAND BEFORE THEY DECIDE TO POST SILLY COMMENTS) Is that 90% of people that do ask for advice or answers to questions on the forum have very most likely been trying to figure out what the issue is with there car or engine for a long time and are already extremely frustrated and annoyed to the hilt before they post there questions AMD really do not have the time or give a s@#t to deal with the stupidity and carry on that they gave to deal with So realise that before you post stupid comments about something that is not related to there question AMD before you decide to push your opinion onto them and and putting them down when they cant be stuffed dealing with it. Also they have probably spent hours or days like I have trying to find the answer to a question. I dont want to buy something i can make myself. Unlike most I build i do not buy. So that is why i am asking the question. Not because I cant be bother looking it up for myself.

A pointless question to you maybe but obviously one that is so pointless you have no clue as to the answer. But from your replies to the fact your commenting in a forum about a vehicle you do not know anything about. You cant compare vehicle parts that are not of the same vehicle to which the question was for let alone on a part you have put on your car that's from a totally differant car and assume its the same as something from a totally differant vehicle again. But I do not know where you seem to get off coming on here and creating an issue and an argument. You didnt have to say a word. You didnt have to even comment at all in any way shape or form. I dont care for uneducated opinions from people about a subject I never enquired about. But your a serious waste of my time and effort trying to inform you that your opinion on the subject that YOU brought up and an argument that YOU instigated and that which has nothing to do with what I asked. So just go away.

A pointless question to you maybe but obviously one that is so pointless you have no clue as to the answer. But from your replies to the fact your commenting in a forum about a vehicle you do not know anything about. You cant compare vehicle parts that are not of the same vehicle to which the question was for let alone on a part you have put on your car that's from a totally differant car and assume its the same as something from a totally differant vehicle again. But I do not know where you seem to get off coming on here and creating an issue and an argument. You didnt have to say a word. You didnt have to even comment at all in any way shape or form. I dont care for uneducated opinions from people about a subject I never enquired about. But your a serious waste of my time and effort trying to inform you that your opinion on the subject that YOU brought up and an argument that YOU instigated and that which has nothing to do with what I asked. So just go away.

BENC34 Go back to playing candy crush mate. You obviously dont know the answer to my question and even more obvious dont have a clue to what your on about. As is more then bearing clearances. Its every single possible pathway. Passageway from the oil pump through the engine and back to the pump. Every restriction creates a calculated pressure variance. But seriously You dont have a skyline Or a nissan so go add another 20rwhp by adding that 7 foot wing and 2 nitto stickers to you ride. And leave the real stuff to others. There is an old saying that you really REALLY need to hear. It is. It's better to be thought of as an idiot then opening your mouth and confirming it. So I think it's you who has to apologize for wasting people time. And air.

WARLORD I fully agree. It's actually quite pathetic when you cant hop onto a forum dedicated to helping people with in a community of people with the same interests with out some keyboard warrior getting on here and making you out to be a complete moron because they cant answer your question so they degrade to putting you down or making your idea sound stupid. This kind of behaviour is exactly the reason why 99% of the posts that show up in searches are from between 6 to 10 years old. Because you cant get a straight answer for a simple question with out morons opening there mouths and making comments about something they quite obviously have very limited to no knowledge of. I'm talking about an rb25det and I have someone with a 86 of all things that has a part on it from a differant vehicle and that both are not in any way other then a part used un an oiling system any similar to what I have. None of these are even in the same league as my r33. They couldn't keep up with it if I had my foot on the brake pedal. SAU Is SKYLINE AUSTRALIA Not Subaru toyota mix matched factory ricer tuner wannabes. Reminds me of the bloke with the white hat on YouTube who decides to plead the 5th when asked where he drifts.

You do realise I have as stated an rb25det. Not a Subaru motor of a Toyota motor. The oil cooler from an rb to what you have on yours are for from the same thing. Do you know the thread size and pitch of the threaded part of the insert. Thanks all I want to know.

What is it with you people. I ask a simple question about thread pitch and size and not one of you have any clue so your bringing up stuff that has absolutely nothing to do with my question so you persist on trying to push you opinion onto others and then put them down for having a differing opinion. As for the oil pressure. Well I guess your one of the intellects that think oil pressure is created from the oil pump. The oil cooler has 2 spring ball bearing passages that are there to greater back pressure in the oil system which is set at the factory. They create restrictions that effect oil pressure. Also now unlike you I found this out by playing around with it with removing 1 and then 2 of the ball bearings and noticed a dramatic decrease in oil pressure that diminished to a 3rd when both bearings were removed. I know by doing and see the effects for myself. Not by guessing or looking it up on the net and believing it because it's on the net it has to be true. No frankly I'm not on here to cop crap from people about something that has nothing to do with my original question. If you dont know then dont comment. I dont need or want to be converted to your way of thinking or be put down because of this. So does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the threaded part of the insert for the factory oil cooler. THANK you

Mir Hello I do understand what your saying as they are also for creating your oil pressure. But I have a full oil cooler with oil temp thermostat aswell as pressure valves to create the restriction required to make the oil pressure. This is not a standard engine. Far from it and because of this the factory set up just is not sufficient and my modifications and upgrade of the system is surely needed. Thank you

Didnt think so.

I thank you for your reply but that's not what I am looking for. I can buy a thousand of these for even more places and I found that in half a second of searching. I want to know the thread size and pitch of the insert. Now if you can find that In 5 seconds then that's differant and I will appolagise for waiting peoples time. That is the only thing I want to know. Not where to buy one or what it looks like or anything other then the thread size and pitch. Thank you

Hello I appolagise for reopening such an old thread but cannot find the I formation I'm looking for anywhere. I have an rb25det and want to remove the factory oil cooler and put my oil filter directly to the block but in order to do that i need to fi d what the thread size and pitch is for the oil filter stud that the factory oil cooler slides onto. I need the thread size and pitch for the threaded part of the stud that goes into the engine block. Any help would be brilliant. Thank you so much in advance.

I am trying to ascertain the compression ration I have now as compared to the stock 9 to 1. 9 to 1 i if everything is factory. I have a 10 thou decked head 10 though decked block so that would raid my compression to 10 to 1 and over. But if I use a 1.3mm gasket it will lower my compression. I am guessing lower then 8.5:1 andbdeffinatlu lower then 9.0:1 If I use a 1mm head gasket it to will lower the comoression ratio but to what I do not know. My guesses and assumption are basses upong the given information. Standard is 9.0:1. Deck head 10thou and block 10thou so if everything else is stock it would mean that my compression height is 20thou or 0.5mm shorter and my piston now comes closer to the valves and the head meaning higher compression. If I try to compensate for the 20 thou differance and use a 0.5mm or 20 thou head gasket it should in theory bring my compression back to stock (9.0:1) If I use a 1mm or 40 thou head gasket it would mean that my compression height is now lower then 9.0:1 as the pistons are now 20 thou lower at TDC which inturen will lower my comp ratio. If I use a 1.3mm or 51.118 thou Meaning my comp height is now 30+ thou taller meaning my comp is now lower. So With all this information I still cannot work out my assumed comp ratio. I'm guessing that with a 1mm (40 thou) MLS Gasket my comp will be lower then 9.0:1 And a 1.3mm (51thou) would make it lower. But I need to know what it would be lower to. So if anyone here and I am seriously confident there is. Has done this ● what type of pistons were used and ● what size head gasket was used. And ● Comp ratio was achieved. Thank You.

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Gidday. As suggested I require some help in working out my comp ration. I have researched the heck out of this subject and have found some really good posts with very VERY detailed information and processes in order to a quote this information. But nothing about how to adjust the ratio. For instance from what I have found the RB25DET S2 Came out with a 9.0:1 Ratio from factory also here are some other specs I have found for a stock RB25DET. SIZES ARE IN MM AND ALL FACTORY. BORE SIZE : 86.0MM STROKE : 71.7MM DECK HEIGHT : 188.5MM HEAD CC : 66.5MM COMP HEIGHT : 31.5MM So here is my information RB25DET S2 Block. Decked 10 thou Rb25det S2 Head. Deckedb10 thou Bores. +20 thou Stroke (Stock) 71.7mm I am looking for between 8.5:1 to 8.8 - 9.0:1 I am not as smart as some and cannot seem to figure this calculation method out. The instructions and walk throughs I have seem are really detailed but a little TO detailed to the stage where I am lost and it all starts looking like the matrix wall paper screen saver. So if someone could help me understand and to figure out what pistons I should her what Head gasket and so I will be forever in your debt. I had my rb25det with full stock internals up to 444.4 RWHP @ 19.5 @ 19.5PSI Of boost and snapped piston 1-s Ring Landings. Thank You In Advance.

Where abouts are you located Mate. I'm in North side of Brisbane.

RB26/30 Into R33 s2 Gidday guys. I have search all over the shop but need to now just ask the question. Back story I have an r33 with a rb25det in it but want to upgrade to the RB26/30 I have. Can someone please tell me what I need to do to get in and running. Like what sensors do I need to add to the 30 block. Will my wiring harness from the 25 wire straight up or if not what do I need to do. I had a mechanic and everything to fit it for me but yeah he's a tool because i found out that he want a heap more coin to do it. He says I need to get a vl RB30 and a RB26 wiring harness and then graft together then graft that into my r33 rb25 harness. Also he has to make custom engine mounts. Also i need to get a gearbox from a vl because the 25 one won't fit and they don't make adapter plates. The list goes on. So can you guys and gals please set me straight. Thanks All who help.

Thats good news KiwiRS4T Did you use the Rb30 or 25 or stagea engine mounts. Cheers.

Gidday PranK Cheers for the welcome note. Yeah I'm sure someone can help. Getting depressing sitting on my back veranda looking at it and not being able to go for a run in it. And driving my patrol (As nice and comfortable as it is) is not a very fast car. Never tried to give it a foot full either. I drive it like it's ment to be driven. Low revs slow corners and a slow ish take off. The R33 on the other hand. But 444 RWHP on a stock motor is a good effort. But I built it around the fact that i will want the Rb26/30 in there so twin Proflo Pumps 1/2" fuel lines 2200cc I.D injectors ect ect. And what better way to start then making sure I'm well informed. Anyway Take care mate and thanks again.

I know I'm pulling out an old thread but I'm doing the same. A rb26/30 into R33 S2. And was told that i need custom mounts as the rb30/26 is taller then a Rb26dett or Rb25det to it fouls the bonnet. Is this true or not. Cheers.

RB30/26 Into 1996 S2 R33 Gtst Gidday Peoples. I've been a manner here for a while and never really said anything. But now I shall change that. I own a 1996 R33 Rb25det Powered Gtst with 444.4 RWHP @ 19.5 PSI. But I have excessive soil vapour coming out if my Tappet cover breathers and now out my exhaust pipe. I have recently purchased a RB26/30 THAT only had a mild tune and 400 RWHP. And I want to put it into my r33. I know I will have to fabricate my own engine mounts and that 999.9% of the sensors will work from the factory r33 harness. I need to know if there is any little traps that fought people out when they attempted this conversion. What am I missing. I have spent about 4 or so weeks researching this and frankly there isn't much about it at all anywhere. There is heaps on doing the build of a rb26-26/30 But bugger all about putting it into a car. If you knowbof any threads or pages or even YouTube vids please send me the link. Thanks In Advance. Pat

I have checked the washers and there there. I have also checked the clearances between the CAS and the cam it's self and with the 2 gaskets and washers Inplace I have 2.5mm clearance. I do agree with you saying maybe the second hand one could be buggered aswell. I have been told of a place that can just replace the bearing. I have put up an update to this post aswell

I have tried everything you guys have suggested. AND NOTHING HAS WORKED. Also you do not have to recalibrate your timing every time you remove your CAS Nissan said as I asked the question. They said NO because of the way the Keyway is set up and the toothing of the shaft it can only go on one way. I'm sorry for not spending every minute on here but if I did how would I be able to try what people suggest. I'm the one having issues and getting a handful of suggestions (That I do appreciate ) and I'm the one that has try physically do what you suggest. But if your going to act like a phsycotic wives carrying on because I don't answer your text right away then please don't bother posting.

Right. Job done. What I done I started be removing the plugs to the coils Started with No#1. NO DIFFERENCE. No#2 NO DIFFERENCE. No#1 and No#2 NO difference (Weird I know) No#3 No#4 No#5 No#6 all made a difference. Pulled No#1 coil and Plug out and earthed it and it put out a nice big spark. Pulled No#2 coil and Plug out and earthed it and it put out a nice big spark. So I replaced them both coils and plugs and removed the No#1 Injector plug. I put an LED into it and it was pulsing.So then I removed the No#1 Injector. A couple of the yellow bits on the pintle were busted. But other then that it looked fine. I removed the fuel pump fuse and turned it over whilst holding injector in my hand and if it was working I would have felt a CLICK CLICK that they make when there pulsing the fuel in. NOTHING. Thought it might need an earth so I sat it in an earth but nothing still. RESULT. All coils were firing on time with the timing. All plugs were receiving good current and producing more then ample spark. All injector plugs were fine and all were making good pulse. All injectors except No#1 & No#2 made pulse. SOLUTION REPLACE 2 injectors with ones borrowed from a friend And see if that fixes the issue. If so. Replace ALL INJECTORS and top half inlet gasket And some pipes that are hard to get to unless the intake is separated. NEXT UPDATE WHEN I GET SOME INJECTORS.

Bit of an up date. I called Nissan and the bloke told me that when new or working properly there is supposed to be SOME resistance when it is turned by Hand. To little and it's buggered. To much and it's buggered. I swapped CAS with one off if a friends car that I know worked good and has no noise. But no difference. But I replaced it anyway. And the noise has died down. Now I have a new issue. The engine sounds like it's missing. I have replaced the plugs. New spill fire coils. But no change. Gunna start a new post about it.

As the title suggests my skyline sounds like it's missing. I bought this car as a doer upper and have since got it running and 99% put back together but now I've got another issue THINGS I HAVE ALREADY DONE ARE. I have checked for air leaks with pressurised smoke. Also tried the carbi cleaner trick but no change. I have replaced the plugs but no change. I have replaced the coil packs with red split fires. I have checked timing marks all line up. and they do. I have checked the wiring. NO PROBLEMS TODAY I'm going to take off 1 coil lead at a time and see if I can find which cylinder is playing up. I haven't done a comp test yet. I have heard of people going through a years paycheck finding the issue and it turned out to be a bum coil or plug. But seeing as there both new they should be ok. I will keep this post going so just maybe I can save others from waiting time and money.