shajar

Be intresting to know what it sold for (if you don't mind), just for those of us looking at R32's around this price bracket for comparison.

Hey Cyph-R33, I have the same issue, it has been playing up like that for 18mths now and I've just about had enough of it and ready to sell it as is...! Here is what I have tried I would like to here from you if you resolve your issue permanently. -Installed CAI partition on Pod filter to stop hot air into AFM -Replaced coil packs with known good ones -Replaced Spark plugs -Replaced Atmo BOV with plumb back OEM -Replaced FMIC intercooler clamps -Swapped out ECU with standard unit -Cleaned AAC valve -Check engine oil level -Check coolant temp sensor for resistance at 80deg. (confirmed with infared temp gun) 324ohms -Check voltage output from computer to sensor. Ok -Check MAF for cleanliness- ok -Check MAF voltage input, 5.2v ok -Check MAF earth, 30mv-ok -Check MAF voltage output ign on-.3v eng running- 1.7v ? -Swap MAF with 2nd known good supplied unit - no obvious change -Check fuel pressure idle cold-40psi, idle warm-35psi, idle vac hose disconnect-45psi -Restrict return line and check for change in idle -ng -Restrict supply line and check for change in idle -better -Check voltage output from oxygen sensor -slowely max out to 1.2v!! -Check back of vehicle while O2 sensor reading 1v- black smoke from rear of vehicle -Replaced Oxygen Sensor - no change -Disconnect both AAC and FICD valve and check if change in idle- ng -Check power steering switch for malfunction, disconnect and check for change- no change *remove PCV hose or oil cap and vehicle idles well. -Check hose connecting from rocker cover to intake hose - ok -Check hose connections between MAF and turbo intake - ok -Checked for air leaks around inlet manifold- ok -Checked for vac hoses being disconnected - ok -Blocked all 3 charcoal canister hoses and checked idle - ng -Checked for fault codes- none found - code 55 - system ok -Adjusted ignition timming and set SAFC to zero correction and check idle- initally good but did not stabilize always -Checked voltage to TPS- 5.2v - ok -Checked voltage output from TPS -varying - ok -Checked Air Regulator under manifold, measured correct resistance & not blocked -Adjusted throttle plate stop, tps and iac bypass screw- see how it goes - still being a b1tch...... I'm just about to replace the CAS with a known good S/Hand unit but don't hold much hope for it fixing issue....alot of those tests above were done at a mechanic's workshop.

Hey mate, PM me best price for CAS if still available?

SOLD.... Cheers mate.

PM sent...

Hi mate I see you have sold the R33 Engine did you sell the ECU with it?

If that includes freight I'll buy it..!

Hi mate do you want to separate the ECU from the Engine? If so what price you looking for?

Yes checked it, it's working ok, the reason it comes good when removed is it's doing the same thing as the Intake pipe to rocker cover on other side when removed (allows more air in), seems like too much vacume???? Yes my IC piping is same as yours it does not quite line up correctly (little short &/or at the wrong angle) though the clamps look a little weak, although I did squirt Start-Ya-Bastard on them to see if Idle would rise from sucking it in, did nothing so seal might be ok, clapms are cheap enough to replace and 1 less thing to think of.

Hey cmoney, that's damn good news. My shitbox is doing the same thing hunting at idle seems to be more when hot, then if I'm lucky at the lights it stalls...! I've tried f@ckin everything I can think of and had it at the mechanics for over 4hrs, still being no closer to the answer. It only has light mods but the guy I bought it off mentioned the stalling (very intermittent) started when his mechanic put the BOV (now replaced with OEM type) and FMIC on. So I'm thinking of replacing the clamps on the FMIC as they look cheap and don't tighten real tight up without slipping a bit on the thread? One thing has me perplexed though is to make it idle better I have disconnected the S shaped hose from the Turbo Intake to Rocker cover, it's almost like there's too much vacume and it sending the AFM stupid, hence the hose disconnected seems to mask my problem. Below is a list among other things that was checked to be Ok on mine so could be good for others with same issue to look at this fault process of elimination. -Installed CAI partition on Pod filter to stop hot air into AFM -Replaced coil packs with known good ones -Replaced Spark plugs -Replaced Atmo BOV with plumb back OEM -Cleaned AAC valve -Check engine oil level -Check coolant temp sensor for resistance at 80deg. (confirmed with infared temp gun) 324ohms -Check voltage output from computer to sensor. Ok -Check MAF for cleanliness- ok -Check MAF voltage input, 5.2v ok -Check MAF earth, 30mv-ok -Check MAF voltage output ign on-.3v eng running- 1.7v ? -Swap MAF with 2nd known good supplied unit - no obvious change -Check fuel pressure idle cold-40psi, idle warm-35psi, idle vac hose disconnect-45psi -Restrict return line and check for change in idle -ng -Restrict supply line and check for change in idle -better -Check voltage output from oxygen sensor -slowely max out to 1.2v!! -Check back of vehicle while O2 sensor reading 1v- black smoke from rear of vehicle -Replaced Oxygen Sensor - no change -Disconnect both AAC and FICD valve and check if change in idle- ng -Check power steering switch for malfunction, disconnect and check for change- no change *remove PCV hose or oil cap and vehicle idles well. -Check hose connecting from rocker cover to intake hose - ok -Check hose connections between MAF and turbo intake - ok -Checked for air leaks around inlet manifold- ok -Checked for vac hoses being disconnected - ok -Blocked all 3 charcoal canister hoses and checked idle - ng -Checked for fault codes- none found - code 55 - system ok -Adjusted ignition timming and set SAFC to zero correction and check idle- initally good but did not stabilize always -Checked voltage to TPS- 5.2v - ok -Checked voltage output from TPS -varying - ok -Checked Air Regulator under manifold, measured correct resistance & not blocked -Adjusted throttle plate stop, tps and iac bypass screw- see how it goes - still being a b1tch...... 1 thing I have noticed is it will not boost past 10psi no matter what the Turbosmart bleed valve is set to, could be a good thing seing as I am running the stock Turbo/Injectors, it was happily put out 206RwKW when running but now has been detuned/SAFCII/Timing to for idle issue.

Hi mate I'm also interested, do you have any real pics of it though particularly the scratch marks? Thanks

Hi mate good price for what you have there but Turbosmart's website says the Type 1 is best suited for vehicles up to 1.5L ( http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?id=48 ) so be pushing it for a 2L letalone a 2.5L 6cyl. You'd prolly find the spring would be ok in a smaller capacity engine.

Hi mate interested in an offer of $270 and + $15 Registerd Post

Hhhmmmm spewin sounds like a trip to the mechanic with a Master Fuel guage not so easy to come by... The weird part of it for me is the way it struggles at idle (starts hunting) or when taking off slowly on any hill the steeper the incline the worse it gets??

True NYTSKY but think I'll have to save around $1500 bucks before even booking it in, seems to be the going rate for replacing anything at all including dyno/tune time..!

Guy's i'm thinking of replacing my fuel pump as am dammed if I can work out what my S2 R33 GTS-T's problem is. Car has following mods: Full 3" exhaust FMIC HKS Pod filter Central 20 ECU Apexi SAFC 2 RS type BOV copy Turbosmart boost control running 10psi Dyno tuned produced 206RWKW with an arching coilpack It's stalling after a little stab of accelerator sometimes hunts for idle indesciminately and lately I've noticed it's loosing power down low then picks up when you give it a boot full to get it going, it does not like hills, my driveway is steep and it only just makes it up (struggles all the way lack of power) then half the time just dies when I pull into garage on flat. It kind of cam good for a while after swapping out the AFM but with all the damp weather seems to have gone back to it's crappy running self. It laso feels like the brake is being applied a lttle when you take your foot off the accelerator, does not seem to coast if you get my drift. Fuel economy is really good so quite sure not the 02 sensor. Oh and after got back from dyno tune the tuner advised he took out excessive fuel under 3000RPM and had to put more in from there on, he said the injectores were not flowing much after around 6300RPM Over some time it has been progressively getting worse, I have done the following to date. Replaced Plugs gapped to .6 Replaced coilpacks which fixed a breaking down issue on dyno tune at 4800-6000 Replaced AFM with secondhand unit said to be good when removed Installed SAFC-2 and had dyno'd Cleaned AAC valve Swapped out BOV for standard Checked for airhose leaks - none evident I am at a point where I may have to spend big bucks with a local tuner (not many reputable ones to choose from in Cairns) to find this issue and I know they will be doing the same as me without alot of technical expertise on these cars, just using the "process of elimination method" and saying to me we need to swap this out then that then this and hopefully jag it. What does a failing fuel pump or regulator feel like to driver with can anybody tell me?

**Sold** Have fun Smity42

**Sold pending payment** Thanks Smity42

Hey mate what colour do the guages light up?

Item:Bee*R Rev limiter Condition:Used in excellent working condition, visibly looks near new. Price:$230 including Reigistered Post Delivery anywhere in Australia To Fit:Any car Location:Cairns QLD Contact:Shay 0419 780 999 or [email protected] Comments: This little device is handy for a few things, it mainly saves your engine by cutting ignition instead of Fuel as the ECU does when you hit a predetermined rev limit that you can set. This also helps if running in an engine, you can set the limit lower than standard. Good for drifters so they are not over revving continiously, has launch control when hooked up to the handbreak and if you into chitty-chitty-bang-bang with flames it can shoot flames out your exhaust (though the cat needs to be cleared out or removed for this to work effectively URLS http://www.bee-r.com/english/revlimitter/instruction.htm URLS http://www.bee-r.com/english/revlimitter/inst/index.htm URLS http://www.takakaira.co.jp/asp/template.as...STtPqQqlnMokrNm

No worries bloke, that's understandable to try and get wreckers prices if your in the game, cheers all the same.

Do you have any receipts of purchase for it for warranty or proof of ownership?

Hi mate would you take $70 for the R/H rear light and $15 for the plastic underneath the the steeringwheel column where the fuse cover sits in.

Hi mate, do you still have the ashtray? If so would you accept $20 inc. freight to Cairns QLD 4870? Also looking for the plastic part of dash under the steering wheel, the part your knees hit.

Hey walta did you end up finding your problem? I was talking to someone else about a similar problem they had and they said it was the Intake hose from AFM into the turbo sucking closed, they resolved it by putting on a silcon intake pipe on.