shajar

Hey PT you want to sell me the RH rear tail light for $60 and $20 freight to QLD? Looks like vince88 wants the LH so between me and him we have split the pair.

Hi mate any pics of the BOV ?

Ok so I found out from the tuner that it was run from 1000RPM to 7000RPM so that would make the crossover point from worse to better around 3000RPM. The old tune is the one with the dots. As for how the car feels, well it's made it a little sedate below 3000RPM and then it has a bootload more power from there on with a hesitation/shudder around 5000RPM then smooths out again, so I can't complain about that too much as heller44 said you don't use that part of the rev range too much other than putting around. It kinda feels like the same problem I had when the plugs were not gapped to .7 on 12psi on my old R33 Skyline it boosted ok to around 9psi then anything after that it shuddered and that's as far as you could go until I changed the spark gap from 1 to .7 although this one seems to push past that shudder with some hisitation then keeps cranking? He put new sparks in and left them gapped at 1 so I think I'll pull them out and change the gap to .7 and see if it still hesitates, if so then need to look seriously at coilpacks.

Ah I see, yes he mentioned it was from around 1000rpm to (not sure) around 6000rpm maybe? So the essentially I could break this graph up to into 5 parts from 1000rpm through to 6000rpm and the lower part upto 90Kph would be at a different RPM, if you get my drift. Correct me if I'm wrong, I guess what I'm saying here is if the graph show'd Revs aswell it would be easier to read, so if I was in example 2nd gear that power curve that is low would be around 2000RPM in every gear? Then from around 2500RPM it's better in every gear?

Yes I would have thought so but the crap you see around 120 to 135kph is it breaking down. He replaced the plugs and it was still breaking down, so we both guessed maybe coil packs which we both inspected at different times and they look fine. Coil packs aside it seems to make good power at 205Kw I'm guessing that's ATW? But at the wrong end of the scale....especially as you see it was making 40hp up to 90kph more before the tune. He mentioned 4th gear as bieng the standard for tuning. It is a 5spd with a Central 20 ECU and the rest that stolen_s15 mentioned.

Hey guy's anyone explain to me if this tune is any good, to me it's seems like a waste of power if you look at the graph the the green is Power and the red is torque the ones with dots is before the SAFC was tuned. The tune was done in 4th gear. All my power increased seems to be from 90klms onwards, unfortunately I can't use much of it as I don't drive on the track and don't want to go alot faster than 120klms for fear of loosing my license, it looks as though I've lost approx. 40Hp up to 90klms which when your doing a redlight run is alot to loose? Anyone got any ideas what I can do about it or if this is standard fair after a tune. DynoTune_with_SAFC2.pdf

Ok the reason I asked is someone else had their's tuned recently at the same workshop for $220 so that's the sort of price I was expecting but whenI went to see them they upped the price saying it was too cheap and he should've been charged more..... I might go get another mechanics opinion. Unfortunately there is only a choice of 2 that I know of in Cairns, QLD.

Any ideas, what do you guys think is a fair price to do a full tune on my SAFC-II that is already installed but all set to default in a 96 R33 GTS-T. I've been told it can take a while and some other people have mentioned as little as an hour on the dyno. Have had a quote of "around" $270.

Ok guys, just hooked it back up and all seems well just driving around the block, thanks to both QWK32 and WogsRus, the configuration needed to be set as the following default "check to make sure your sensor type is HW. Sensor No.4 in and out and Sensor Calibration 1 in 1 out. and car select is 6 and the arrow pointing up" - (this specific information Sensor No.) was unavailable on for me on pg.30 of my manual or downloaded PDF doco's, thanks again for the tip guys. All that's left now is a proper Dyno tune. When this is done in the next month I will Post the results.

Yeah I'm all for them now I know what their used for. My car came with one already half installed (previous owner over 50yrs did not mention it as did not know what it was), so I did some research and found out it was an engine life saver if anything for those who don't know when to change gears..... It is a handy engine saving device (but will aid in Diff destruction if using Launch controll which was not wired into the Handbrake) I have set mine to cut out at around 6500RPM, it cuts out your ignition not the Fuel like the standard ECU, therefore saving your engine from leaning out as the standard ECU cuts fuel, obviously the fuel pump and injectors etc is the next limitation to cause premature engine melt down. But when it cuts ignition then the engine backs off and back onagain there is a big dump of fuel that gets ignited through your exhaust, not the best thing for a Cat converter if your doing it for a flameshow as I've herd some people do. I have herd of some people wiring in the Launch control to their clutch pedal via an electronic switch aswell which would be sweet, so when they want to launch at a cirtain rev it's just dialed into Number 1 dial, pop the clutch in hold down acceletator then let the clutch go instead of handbreak and full RPM is back on tap. I've told my wife if she ever see's a little red light flashing at her from it to change gears quickly if she's ever in a hurry, it does help though when your giving it some all you do is watch the tacho, then the light flashes momentarily you know it's time to change gears saving your engine from a redline held gear change....

Hey not sure if you have read this thread all the way through, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t110431.html I have only done the first part myself, cleaning the AAC valve and adjusting the idle screw via the AAC valve but I might try the electronic Idle control via the ECU aswell just to be sure, can't hurt.

Hey WogsRus, yep I will give this a try over the weekend, as have to wire it back in (power) all signal wires still spliced in ok. Where did you see 4 in 4 out as the manuals I have printed and downloaded don't have this info anywhere?

HHhhmmmm interesting.... I'm in a very similar situation, recently bought my 96 SII GTS-T and the guy I bought it off said it stalls every now and then, I thought I could resolve it fairly easily (not so far) just after he put on a new MonstaA FMIC and some crappy yummcha copy GReddy RS type BOV. I have also checked and replaced any suspect looking vacume hoses, I have the nipple on intercooler pipe, replumbed the 3-piece multi-tapped vacume pipe to Boost guage, cleaned AFM and ACC valve. Tried blocking the BOV off all-together aswell, so it's not that, though I'm leaning towards getting the dual Plumb-back/Venting type BOV just to be sure, though finding it hard to part with the $400 asking price just to see if it improves things. All this stopped the "fullon stalling" for about 1 week, then it started again not as badly though, then after a while it stopped stalling and started hunting, which is slightly better than restarting the car at the lights, though I feel like a tool as it's revving up and down trying to find idle properly. So this is where I'm at, I just picked up a SAFCII to see if I could see and log what was actually happening + they are good for improving fuel economy and sqeezing every last bit out of your engine configuration (once it's fully dyno tuned). But am having issues with getting the SAFCII to run at all with my car read my other posts.... I'm now asking anyone who may be able to lend me a copy of Datascan software, if so I will probably buy a consult cable and see if I can find it that way.

Ok thanks mate I'll give that a try when I hook it all back up, maybe on Friday night. From memory I set it to Sens No. In-01 Out-01 and Sens.Cal In-01 Out-01. I did try Sens No. 1 through to 3 with no change, no-where in the manual or online could I find where I should have the Sensor Number set at for a R33 GTS-T (it does however mention a Subaru WRX, Silvia S13 and 300ZX).....! I'll buy some more bullet connectors on Thursday and hook it back up on Frid/Sat. and post results. I am now looking into a USB consult cable and software for a more understandable readout of what is happening with the retuned Central20 ROM and as WogsRus mention'd (not in this thread) he is also using a Cental20 ROM with a SAFCII "The hunting on the car is easily fixed but you need consults to do it. I had the same issue, this is because the algorithim in the ECU for the ACC valve is different and needs to be reset to idle at 650 rpm. This is done through the consult software and takes about 5 minuts to do, very easy and solves any hunting issues"

I had one in brown near my ECU with a heap of wires spliced and one near the Steering column, I'm quite cirtain they were for a non fiunctioning Alarm system that had been removed prior to me taking ownership.

Hey QWK32 yes checked and rechecked wiring in/out as somebody else mentioned in another thread on the SAFC II I even used the Apexi prefered earth (pin 26 AFM earth) as ground, and placed the Brown Earth wire closer to the ECU by over 2cm than the Black earth wire. What do you mean by HW-4? I used Hot-Wire 1 in 1 out what is meant by 4? I'm guessing the splicing is OK as it's still all spiced inplace I have only removed the Power from it so the SAFC II does not function, and the car runs ok, so the ECU is still getting the correct signals from my spliced signal connections. I'm leaning towards I've got something else special happening with my wiring i.e the Bee*R Rev limiter is causing problems or the unit is F*cked. I will give it a couple of weeks then take a fresh look again to see if I've overlooked something, if not it's gone.... Hey lingeringsoul, you bet I waisted a good Saturday afternoon/evening on this little escapade, and if anybody asked me to do it for them I'd be asking for a carton.......of spirits.!

Ah well I spoke to soon, time to pull it out I think, the car does't drive too well with it in place seems to want to just die when driving at around 3000-4000rpm, idles ok, so a bit perplexing, have also set the knock now and wired that up. Anyone else running one of these with similar setup as mine to compare settings?

SWEEET I'M STOKED......Thanks guys I'll take the "I'm an idiot and can't wire it properly" medal...... I just rewired it and it's running sweet, the reason I wired it incorectly was the wiring loom was pulling so tight on the ECU plug assy (from a previous butcher removing an alarm system before importing to Aus) that a few of the wires had jumped over into the next segment, so when I was counting along it was wrong on the signal wires... I still havn't hooked up the (purple) knock sensor wire as it's getting a bit late to be revving the car over 3500-RPM tonight, so tomorrow will be a good day to finish the basic install/setup, plus a service while I'm at it, might aswell give it a wash too seen as the Wife never does....

Thanks BAMR33 that was the ECU digram I used. One question I could not answer from the Apexi Instruction Manual Pg45 was (For sensor numbers, refer to the Wiring Diagram by model on the seperate sheet) I have scoured the Wiring digram by model document I have and it has nothing about sensor numbers for the Nissan's it does have the sensor type for the Subaru's.... So I guessed it was and set it to a (HW) Hot-Wire type AFM sensor.

I ran the Initial setup including the knock sensor setup before hooking up the knock sensor signal wire (purple) as I don't know which Knock signal pin to use from the ECU, the ECU has Pin 23 (Cyl 1-3) and Pin 24 (Cyl 4-6). The manual does not have which Pin on my ECU to hook up the knock sensor. And I cant seem to set the knock sensor as the car does not run without stalling after around 3500 RPM Nor does it say what type of AFM I have, I've set the AFM type to the (Hot-Wire type), 1 in and 1 out as part of the Initial setup. I have set the following Sensor Type Hot-Wire type 1 in and 1 out 6cyl with Throttle sensor type Arrow facing up-right All sensors working on SensCheck bar the KnK had no reading but would have expected that as have not hooked up the purple wire yet? Tried setting the knocking signal correction, but carwon't run properly to do it? Can any one tell me what settings they use for an R33 GTS-T. I have the following engine mods: Century 20 Aftermarket ECU Bee*R Rev Limiter FMIC HKS Pod Full 3" Exhaust BOV Might have to pull it all out tomorrow as the wife needs the car for Work Monday....!

"Don't tell me I know boats....." Is there something wrong here or do you sound like a fool, who do you think you are quoting "I have no idea" you don't know me at all, so get off this thread if you are going to be a friendless, doogooder NERD, living in fear becuase of road fatality statistics, quoting useless leglalities, DID I ASK FOR THE LEGALITIES OF CHANGING AN AIRBAG STEERINGWHEEL? I am an Electronic Engineer, and if I felt the need to waste time bypassing the SRS safety system "your so-called specialty" I'd put a simple 555 timer system in circuit that would power on the bulb at ignition start and turn the light out with the rest of the ECU system check indicators. Since I opted for the easy option, posting a thread incase of a "possibly known solution" to my immediate problem hoping there maybe someone who has experienced something similar with a quick simple solution, therefore not having to reinvent the wheel. This is what these forums are for, not too have people judging or handing down predjudice becuase they appose the topic.

2GU_UP no offense mate but it's quite obvious, just about any modification is damn near illegal in any state but if the "scum of the earth" (highway patrol) don't know how to pick it and the average mechanic overlooks it then your home free.... back to the days of 20years ago when you could pretty much do what you liked to an engine and still have no unlawful magnetic attraction. I am swapping the s/wheel out for now and will keep it for a RWC when I want to sell my car down the track so don't worry it will be legal when it gets a RWC. As for Airbags, I feel they are more of a scam for vehicle manufacturers to create extra profit from after sales parts. Do you ever see a rally-car or race/drag car with an Airbag. Drive-safe in suburbia and be safe.....take it to the track for an edrenalin whack.

Hey Junky_Bass just wonderin if you have any idea of ETA, Im guessing your being a little strung along by your supplier otherwise you'd be able to give us a more definate date. Any clues? I'm happy to wait another week or two but any longer than that and it's getting past 2 months wait, (cars are built faster) too long for me.

Well I got the shits with looking at a flashing ABS light and put the original peice of cr@p steering wheel back on until I can figure out how to get rid of it, guess what "the bloody light is still flashing" with the Airbag S/wheel on. I had some more googling and on this site, one person said to hit the drivers door light switch 7 times after switching on (this did not work for me) then I found this. have heard of this happening to a few cars.... its called a soft code..... usually if its flashing.... Flashing ABS light reset Key on door open Key off Key on Hit the door pin switch 10 times Will only work if light is flashing – if solid Consult unit is required I tried this a few times and hey presto it worked.... but noticed for it to work I needed to slow down the rate I was pressing the door switch at, so the first response I found on this site may have worked aswell if I was pressing the door switch a little slower. Anyway I will install the S/wheel again probably next weekend and see if the soft code rest works after puttining a non airbag type S/Wheel on.

Hey people, I got sick of the standard Airbag Steering wheel in my S2 R33 and swapped it out with my Momo steering wheel I've kept from the previous two cars. Only problem is I don't know how to get rid of the Airbag light that keeps flshing in the dash, is there a fuse I can remove for it? Or do I have to get serisous and remove the bulb from the guage cluster (bigger job than expected) if that's the only option I might aswell get different coloured bulbs and put them in at same time. Can anyone point out the Airbag fuse?