shajar

The BOV is supposed to be new and it looks new and nothing looking broken or seized though a nylon locking screw on the main thread/shaft inside it seemed to be what looked like all the way out, so I have screwed it all the way down (which made no difference) except what sounded like it was now constantly leaking air. I have now just clamped the hose going to it so the car runs, I will take it apart one last time and adjust the internal screw to half way down this thread if no luck with that I will take it too another mechanic this week sometime to see if they can shed some light on the subject. Yes I'd like to get a Turbo Smart BOV but would like to be cirtain mine is stuffed and actually needs replacing, rather than finding out it was a $2 hose somewhere else. Maybe I should get them to do a tune on it as the previous owner put this new BOV and FMIC on and it has not been tuned since, he did admit to saying it could do with a tune when I bought it....

You say u replaced your plugs, what did you gap them too? My last two skylines suffered the same issue on high boost (13psi) untill I gapped the plugs to .6

Yes tried that (putting my hand over the trumpet), and yes it seemed to imrove it, unfortunately I can't see the piston but will have a feel for it now.

Yes I'm of half a mind to whip it off and pull it apart and fiddle with it's insides, not sure such a good Idea but seen the car can run ok without the air hose hooked up, can't really hurt anything other than my wallet if I wreck it. Although it did sound impressive (seemed to be working correctly) when changing gears....

Hi can anyone shed any light on why when I hook up the BOV it keeps revving up and down up and down and then will eventually stall (i feel like a knob when driving it as it sounds like i'm allways revving it up for a race or something), it's hard to drive like this so I have just removed the vacume hose from it. I have tried adjusting the screw at the top of it but it makes no difference, the BOV is a GREDDY type RS knock-off only a few months old so can't imagine it bieng faulty. The other end of pipe that used to go to the stock BOV has been blocked off properly.

Mine is just a cheap Turbosmart manual bleed valve too, you can see it lying side ways in one of the pics, the outlet side goes to the Actuator and I'm not really sure where to get the input side from, I thought it was from the little nipple on side of piping but then what do I do with the piping going to the existing solenoid just plug it up?

This looks almost identical to my BOV http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Type-RS-Bov...2QQcmdZViewItem It shows a T-Piece in the kit, mine is now not using a T-Piece at all, I think it did have before it went to the mechanics and they just removed it and put it straight into the intake plenum. does anyone have an install diagram for this type of BOV?

Thanks andrew yes I have been crawling all over it looking/listening for leaks. The BOV is hooked up differently the mechanic said it was incorrect? It sounds louder now though with more of a sqeak noise than a woosh when it goes off, there is no other pipes into it only the one at front, that piece you see at the top is a thread with a nut looks like it keeps it all together? The pipe going into the BOV used to be routed back to a T piece somewhere just before the feed to the waistegate actuator I think.

I have just removed the bleed valve from the setup and it's almost solved the problem, no more hunting on first startup of engine but it did however seem to drop to low a revs when I gave it a bit then pulled up quick with the clutch in... But how do I plumb the boost controller in anyone? I know one end goes to the waistegate actuator and the other goes to the nipple on the stock cast piping but what do I do with the two hoses hanging off the existing Solenoid am I supposed to use a T piece and plumb one of the hoses into it aswell and block the other one?

I have just had the worst two days of my 1 month affair with this car....I am going to save the sob story and get to the current issue at hand though. I just picked it up from mechanics workshop after trying (failed) to fit a Exhaust manifold and successfully fitting the Front/Dump pipe, before the car went in it was running sweet, now I get it back on the drive home (A) it overheated (they came to where I had pulled over and filled up the Radiator) (B) it stalled at the lights and won't idle properly seems to be hunting. I have cleaned the AAC valve and the AFM, reset the ECU, they did say the BOV was hooked up wrong and hooked it up as you see in the pictures, can anyone tell me if I'm missing something apart from I got shafted..... Should I remove the bleed valve and put the standard solinoid back into action, it is Brand new aswell. Can anyone tell from these pics if it's all hooked up ok? Any help appreciated

Thanks rinmak, I found a good site that explains it all just here. http://www.bee-r.com/english/revlimitter/inde.htm

By the way the pics on this thread arn't working, anyone know why?

Just picked up my R33 S2 on the weekend from a long distance purchase and the seller did not mention this item was in the car at all, I was all for ripping it out thinking it was only for people who could not change gears at the right time, untill I read this thread What a cool device..... Unfortunately for me it did not come with any destructions, can anyone point me to a Website that has a downloadable User manual? If not, can anyone upload a scanned copy of there's? That would be appreciated, or even a basic instruction of use? I'd really like to get the launch control sussed. Cheers

OK great 53 it is. I don't have the car yet it's still coming up by train from Melbourne to Brisbane then I'm driving it from BrisVegas 1900Klms home to Cairns in around 17-19.5hrs drive straight through. It does have a remapped ECU from what I can tell, the guy I bought it from could't tell me much about it though showed me a "tiny" picture of the ECU you can't read the name of, I don't think it's any AUS known brand name. So before that trip I wanted to install the T/Timer I have purchased in advance for it, that way I don't accidently turn it straight off after 4-5hrs @ 110-120km/h solid driving to fuel up again and cook (lessen the life) the less than average stock cermic/plastic turbo bearing becuase it's not being fed the Oil it should be to cool it down slowly. Off Topic again but please correct me if I'm wrong I thought the RB25DET had an oil cooled turbo config not water?

Aah Ok, thanks RB30-POWER, so essentialy then if I wanted to disable the 180km/h speed limiter I disconnect this wire from Pin 53, (so then I'm assuming ECU does not need this for anything else) but I still need to find the wire colour code then that feeds the speedo cluster side if it is disconnected? Unfortunetaley the service manual I have does not have a Speedo cluster Wiring diagram, do you have an image of the speedo cluster for wiring? I don't think I'd be doing more than 180km/h all that often so I might just hook it back up (if it's dicsonnected) to get this Full Auto feature working rather than just relying on the minutes countdown. Thanks for the input.

Hey people, am chasing info from anyone who has hooked up their own Turbo Timer to an R33 and made use of the Auto Timer feature. I am using a GReddy Full Auto Timer and it says to hook up one of the wires (for this feature) to the "Speed Signal Wire on the ECU harness". I have uploaded a couple of pictures from the Service Manual highlighting where I think it should be soldered into place if anyone could firmly confirm I am on the right track. Cheers,

Hows your fuel economy? I sold my old R33 a while back and it had a similar problem, (could always smell fuel but could never find any leak) the guy who bought it off me said when he got it tuned the oxygen sensor on the exhaust was faulty and it was causing it to run too rich using too much fuel. If you have no fuel leaks and it's not been replaced in the last 40K thenit may pay you to replace it.

Greddy turbo timer with additional harness for R33 GTST - SOLD Turbosmart stealth boost controller t piece - SOLD Just waiting on delivery now.

Oh why not chimp can't u keep up with the pace..!

No takers for this Grille..!

Price change $115 :crazy:

Its back up for sale on Ebay..

Nissan Skyline R33 Boss Kit, I used this item for 9 days then sold my car. I removed my steering wheel before selling the car as it was not worth selling a $425 steering wheel and $80 Boss kit with it. So it is up for sale as it will not fit my new car. This item is in as new condition. This is on ebay at moment for "next 2Hrs only" going cheap $20 here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

Cool hope u don't get out-bud

Hi rinmark, mate I wish i could just let u have it but unfortunately it's had a bid on it on Ebay which means I am unable to remove it from Auction without bieng penalised :chairshot It's only at $15 at moment, u may be able to pick it up for another $5 or so depends how much the current bidder will pay and i can tell u now they've only put a max bid of $15. Take a look here anyways if still keen :uh-huh: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1