Hertz Donut

PNM35 = no boost. FWIW I get over 600km before the fuel light in mine if I'm doing open road driving, and that's with zero regard for fuel economy in a country riddled with mountains.

"Yall" fail.

Maybe they could outsource the work to Kelly Racing?

It's compeletely useless. Give it to me.

So I tried buying into the whole Susie Wollf "yay we've got a genuine female chick-type woman driving in F1 now!" thing and looked up her racing career to try and convince myself it has absolutely nothing to do with Toto's position. - 3 years in Formula Renault: 48 races, 0 wins, 0 poles, 0 fastest laps, 4 podiums, best season finish 5th - A short stiint in British F3: 2 races, 0 wins, 0 poles, 0 fastest laps, 0 podiums - 7 years in DTM (2006 to 2012, Toto headed Mercedes' DTM campaign from 2006): 72 races, 0 wins, 0 poles, 0 fastest laps, 0 podiums, best race finish 7th, best season finish 13th 2012: Williams F1 test driver (and Toto is...). Sigh.

You guys are aware of this site eh: http://specs.cars-directory.net/nissan/skyline/

I just wanted to say I love you. I've done the engine oil in my PNM35 but the tranny and diff oil changes have had me a bit worried, thanks for the guide.

Can't say I've spotted this thread before but I'm another M35 Stagea owner, out in Hawkes Bay. The car was almost-perfect when I got it just over a year ago, it even still had the factory plastic film over the sill plates in the rear. Needless to say after a year on family taxi duty it's looking a bit grubby and has collected a small dent in the front right fender after my mother-in-law used the Braille parking technique. Suffice to say she hasn't driven it since. The pop-up screen doesn't work but I think that's just a missing fuse and I can't be bothered looking into it. Aside from that it's been faultless so far, plenty of grunt from the VQ35DE, plenty of traction from the AWD and a ton of space in the back - I've slept comfortably in the back for a couple of nights on a king single (183cm x 91cm) air bed. There's a 250GT V35 sedan a couple of doors down from my house, and a silver 350GT couple getting around Hastings with chromes and a GTR badge on the front. I've spotted 3 other M35s locally, all lower-model S1s - one silver, one dark blue, and a sign-written white one. I get down to Wellington every now and then and I've seen a very nice maroon-coloured S2 (I think) and a great looking grey S1 that's lowered on some dished satin black alloys.

I've got Enasaves on mine (fitted when it came into the country) and I haven't found them to be very noisy at all. They also grip far better than I would have expected them to.

Nah I'm out in sunny* Hawkes Bay, about 350km SE of you. *...except for the past 4 days.

So...how's that fantastic weather looking now then?

Wait. Is no one else a little freaked out by what was driving the 2005 Estima in Japan if

Didn't get a photo of it, but on Sunday I put a 910mm x 2400mm offcut of Gibboard/Gyprock/dry wall in the car. Had to get my gangsta lean on to get my shoulder under one end of it but it fitted, just. It was even still in one piece once I got home with it.

That may be so, but the Ferrari is more than you can afford, pal. The question no one's asked yet (unless I've missed it), is which model of Supra? JZA70, MA70...?

I suspect the failure:success ratio in figuring out this little detail is very high for M35s. You can add me to the "failure" side, I ended up calling the dealer.

I have mood lighting under the door pulls to illuminate the window switch areas too, I'm guessing this is a standard feature.

I can't say I've ever actually noticed if it lights up or not, I just use the readout in the middle of the gauge panel.

If you've spent some money on maintaining it, and you love it, why not just drive it until it dies? Keep up the fluid/brake pad/rotor/shock absorber changes over time and it'll serve you well for years. If the engine dies it's not like RBs aren't thick on the ground, and autos can be rebuilt and strengthened. Really I see no reason not to hold onto a car until its chassis is consumed by tin worm. We've followed this policy with our VS Commodore, and now it's worth practically nothing but only costs us maybe $2-300 per year in maintenance for another year or so of bogantastic motoring. There's no way you're going to treat your Stag as badly as we treat the Commie so expect at least 300,000km out of it. TL;DR: A lot more than 150,000km if you maintain it.

78,000km ('04 PNM35), and from the condition I'd say they're genuine. Still had some factory plastic protective film in places when I got it, I don't think anyone ever sat in the back.

I would have used a drill but all my power tools (and trolley jack) are holidaying at my sister-in-law's place until I've rebuilt the shed. AWD can launch pretty well during traffic light drags. Allegedly.

I can confirm this, I did one myself last weekend. Not too many people died. Most onerous part was taking off and putting back on the undertray to get to the filter, but you don't need to do this for just an oil change as there's an opening in the undertray to get to the sump bolt.

I have a 350RX Four, which does the family duties and I take it on longer drives for work purposes (Hawkes Bay-Wellington and back). Around town fuel consumption is as stated above, on the open road it'll drop below 10l/100km and I'm not the most frugal driver out there. I was intending on buying a RWD version but was desperate for a vehicle so bought it anyway, and it's been awesome. Boot space is huge (I've slept in the back on an air bed with the rear seats folded down), it handles very well for a land barge, and can get up and go quite well when you need it to. Beige interior is not child-friendly, I have a chocolate stain in the middle of the rear seat now that taunts me every time I look in the rear view mirror. I recommend finding a black interior. It also has more gizmos than I want to know about. I believe the DD engines require more careful maintenance and can suffer from carbon build-up, someone else can confirm this.

For VTECyo, oil must reach a certain temperature and pressure. VTEC is on/off but iVTEC (K-series engines) also does variable cam timing. /formerHondaowner

Just changed the oil in my PNM35 (also on 78,000km) to Penrite HPR10, which is now rated at 10W50. Not ideal but I'll see how it goes, it's generally just puttering around town at the moment on shorter trips.

I honestly can't remember what went in last time. I hadn't changed it since late 2006 and it had done around 100,000km on what was in there. It took about half an hour to drain out of the sump. The car is quite a beast, even gang members won't park near it. I had some old 20W50 on a shelf in the shed, then topped up the rest with some cooking oil and floor polish.