Hertz Donut

Sweet, thanks, I picked up a 5l pack so I can dump and run.

Started an oil and filter change very late yesterday, first time on this car. The jack and tools all looked like they'd never been used, it was a shame to put a mark them but my trolley jack is holidaying with my sister-in-law. In fact, everything on this car is (or was) so damn clean I feel sorry for it having to do family duties with us. When we got it last June it even still had the factory plastic film over the sill plates in the back, now they've been pulled off by little hands and replaced with chocolate stains on the upholstery. Wasn't entirely sure where to put the axle stands, at first I went for the chassis rail inboard from the front jacking points but I wasn't happy with the creaking noises as I lowered the jack so I moved them to just near where the LCAs bolt to the subframe, as close as possible to the edge of the undertray. Seemed ok there but I must confess I kept checking them to ensure the metal wasn't ripping. Anyone got a better spot to use? Also, 4.8 litres of engine oil in a PNM35 right? I did the Commodore (VS V6) earlier in the day and there was definitely more that came out of the Stag.

I guess this is as good a place as any to ask... We're contemplating an 80/100 series Landcruiser, which we'll probably keep and run into the ground. It'll do a lot of medium-distance towing (600km round trips) and eventually be a farm hauler too, but will probably be the mummy wagon from time to time. Since I'll be doing all the maintenance (and hopefully mods) myself it needs to be relatively easy and simple to work on. Is it much of a drama to work on the 4.2TD models? Also, is there any downside to the 1FZFE petrol engine other than going through fuel like there's a hole in the tank? Wihle I'd love to go for a TB48-powered GU Patrol they're like hen's teeth over here and highly priced when they turn up.

Didn't the NSW Police make the fatal mistake of buying auto WRXs, thereby ensuring they were unreliable AND too slow to catch anything moderately peppy?

Despite Toyota's implausible claims to the contrary, the AE86 Levin was in fact named after a town (pop. circa 20,000) on the North Island of New Zealand, which is famous for around 20% of the population being over the age of 65 - many of whom unsurprisingly own Corollas - and approximately 94% of the female population having a Body Mass Index over 35. If you are after a fat, old slapper with a taste for reliable yet bland small cars for an illicit affair, Levin is the town for you. It also gave you guys Rebecca Gibney. Go Levin!

Sweet, so basically most things our Dunnydore will tow unbraked. Thanks, stops the worrying.

Can anyone classify what a "medium" load would constitute? 750-800kg maybe?

That's racist au. I'm a sandgroper by birth.

TCI = Turbocharged Chicken Injection? I know dem feels. Hungry as bro.

Can't say I've ever heard it on my PNM35, what does it sound like exactly? I do have a noise that sounds like some thin metal rattling against something more solid at around 2300-2600rpm but I'm guessing that's just a loose screw on a shield or the outer wall of the exhaust rattling since it's corroding away.

Is the Golf R going to be sold in Australia? It might sneak in under $50K new, and as long as you sell it before the warranty runs out you should be fine. 296hp, 4WD, 0-100 in 5.1, 4-door hatch.

Modify, but with "genuine" parts, such as Nismo, TRD, Mugen, Ralliart, Mazdaspeed or whatever. I think even with a collector's item a small number of factory-backed parts won't damage the value too much, it may even make it slightly more attractive.

...and right at this minute...me. Sleeping in the back for the next couple of nights. It's surprisingly roomy.

Move to NZ? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-701488823.htm PS: BYO sheep, we don't look kindly upon polygamy.

...and the past few pages show exactly why F1 is a lawyer's sport.

I'd think "HOLY SHIZZLEBALLS, FERRARI'S FINALLY PRODUCING A PRACTICAL FWD CAR!" But I'm easily misled.

A 25t RS Four V was 3.26M Yen when sold new, so probably around the $40K Aus mark in '99. Chepaer than a VTII Commodore SS.

Over the weekend: A 7-foot long ladder, with a little room to spare at either end.

...and you broke out in a cold sweat every time it rained in case there'd be nothing but a pile of rust left when you went back to it.

I think there's a certain comedic value to be had from badges, such as fitting a GTR badge to a clapped-out old 120Y.

Not enough dose uleh.

The sidewall height difference between a 225/40 and a 245/40 is only 8mm, not really enough for anyone to tell the difference at a glance, so it won't look ungainly. If you want to fill the arches with more rim and less sidewall you can step up to a 20 on the M35. Also, a 245 on an 8.5in rim normally won't be bulging, it's about the perfect width for the tyre. Personally I look more for flush fitment than for stretch, I reckon a flush rim still looks great while not having the inherent safety issues of an underinflated stretched tyre. Stretch is fine for shows but on NZ's roads on a daily driver it's a recipe for heartache.

Finally got to hear the cars. To me they sound a bit like a turbocharged MotoGP bike or something. Under any other circumstances the engine note wouldn't be too bad, and the turbo whistle on the overrun is pleasing, but the sound just doesn't marry up with the image. IMHO F1 needs a noise that leaves you in no doubt that the engine is within a bee's dick of blowing itself to pieces, and the sad fact is the turbo 6s just don't sound like they're trying no matter how quick they are. As an aside, pretty much all the cars are hideous. Bring back the beauties of the mid '80s-mid '90s era.

Jazzadub: You're an (ex) NZHer, right? Matty here.

None of the options you've listed are the right size - your best options are 225/40R19, 235/40R19, 245/40R19, 265/35R19 or 275/35R19. The last thing you want with these cars is a smaller overall wheel in the arches. The 265 is almost exactly the same size as a stock 215/55R17 (0.03% out) but if you're after a slight stretch then the 225 would be your best option. Personally I'd go for the 245 but I'm more of a function>form guy. As for RWD vs AWD, converting a 350RX FOUR to RWD is apparently only a fuse-pull away since it's an electronic set-up(never tried it myself), and if you want peace of mind you could pull the front driveshaft out too. I've got the AWD model and I'm very happy with it.