teteous

No longer for sale.

1989 r32 gts-t Black Rb20det 150,000km 5 spd manual R34 turbo R34 radiator 3" dump back exhaust (as quiet as stock, have blast pipes to be fitted) New waterpump New clutch slave New clutch master 5 Puk Ceramic Button clutch Pedders coilovers all round Rear sway bar Hicas Lock Bar Front Camber arms FMIC Turbosmart Supersonic BOV Greddy turbo timer Constant 12v to walbro 255 pump 3.5" dish steering wheel Can put 3 months act rego for $250 (currently runs out 17th August) Car comes with x4 Starcorps (shown on rear) & x2 Work Eurolines and 2 spare tyres Bad: Paint is rough as Crack on passenger side if windscreen Rears tyres on markers (can supply new tyres) Probably forgot things.. Located Corrimal NSW 2518 NO time wasters OR Low-ballers 5k ono 0421442932 [email protected]

I checked the pedal when checking for master cylinder leaks on the inside of the firewall, no leaks there and the pedal seemed fine.. Any way of checking the throw out lever visually? The pivot ball is not bent and looks fine.

Yeah, it has the metal line from the master down to the standard rubber line straight onto the slave. There is no visible leaks on the line at all, bled both master and slave to where it will feel good, then just deteriorates the more you drive to the point where you are just slamming into gear (whilst rev matching). The slaves end up pushing out black black grease, and when I remove the reservoir cap it seems to have a vacuum seal and bubbles will come up (even though it had been thoroughly bled, even with a vacuum bleeder).

Ok, so after buying my 32 gtst the clutch was for for about a month of very little driving. Recently I lost pedal feel, it will only come halfway back up, and wont fully disengage when the pedal is at the floor. It has a new master cylinder and I have replaced the slave 3 times now.. all end up leaking. The last one started leaking and scored the bore of the slave and metal shaving were coming out. The dampener has also been removed previously. It has a 5 Puk Ceramic button clutch.. I dont know if that has anything to do with the slaves dying (they last around 10 minutes of driving). Any suggestions would be great..

Factory green relay thingo was dead, bypassed it and put my own relay in and is now working fine.

Fuel pump issue.. I started up my r32 yesterday (had been running fine previously) and it died straight away. I can hear the fuel pump priming (I had wired it directly to 12v+ constant to test) and its pumping but I cannot hear fuel at the fuel reg as I could previously). When it died I popped the boot and there was electrical smoke coming from the RHS of the boot (unsure where from). The ignition switch to switch the pump on hasnt been working since buying the car (wiring is fine at the ecu end but once its in the boot there is no signal).. Any ideas what may have blown that is allowing the pump to prime but not making it to the fuel reg/start..

Couldn't get any of the resistor mods to work in the end. Just ended up replacing the knock loom and fixed the knock issue.

Ok ill try a couple more, I first tried 470's on each knock sensor, then tried 470 + 30 in series. After those failed I tried connecting both of the knock sensors wiring from the ecu together, attaching a 1M resistor and grounding that to the chassis but still have the same issue. I've tried another ECU and same issue to rule that out.

Ill give it a go, I have pin 23/24 cut at the ECU loom which I soldered separately to each wire x1 470 & x1 30 ohm resistors in series. These both have the same ground of pin 50 (Ground control unit) - This is a known good ground as I have my SAFC connected to this ground also.

Well running the 470 + 30 ohm resistors in series still has the Code 34 coming up, as well as running two 500 ohm resistors in parallel has the code 34.. This is making me believe it must be something to do with the ECU now as there is nothing to do with the knock sensors.

Thanks for all the info, Got the 30 ohm & 1m ohm resistors (only $0.46/pack of 8 so why not..) and i'll test these out tonight. Hopefully being closer to 500 ohms will get it running again. My mate is looking for a spare ecu, so if this fails i'll go down the swapping ecu's route.

Thanks GTSBoy, I have limited understanding of resistors, but wouldn't running x2 470's actually reduce the value by half (ie 470/2 = 235k ohm).. So really I should get x2 1M ohm resistors & run those in parallel to make exactly 500k ohm (but twice the wattage?). Or alternatively run the 470 with say a 47 as mentioned in series?

Yea I was thinking that too so I read all the threads i could find and they either said 470, 500 (which isnt a actual resistor impedance) or 1M ohm. I ran two of the 470's in parallel and it still has the code & hesitation (but reduced the idle weirdly), I guess I can try in series if that may make a difference. I guess next step would be to try another known working ECU.. I shall try that, I have another Bosch 040 laying around so I guess I can just swap that in and see if it makes a difference, it could be contributing to it

Ok, so i cut both 23/24, added the 470 ohm resistors to both and grounded the other end to a ground on the ECU. It made a difference in the revs as soon as I did this as it was on a cold map (1700-2000rpm) and instantly dropped to hot map once the resistors were in. But it still gives the knock sensor code 34 even after clearing, as soon as I start the car and the code re-appears.. Any ideas would be great.