Black4DR

lol everyone has a "daily"

I removed the tacho in my R33. Then went around the circut board with a soldering iron and resoldered all connections ( they looked fine before hand ) Problem solved.

still has the cover mate, and all of the little metal spacers are still in the rubbers. Really dont know why it does it..... I can get a new wheel and pick up for a few hundred bucks..

All the burnouts!!!

Pretty certain my CAS is poked. But i want to see if anyone has encountered this problem before... When Im setting my timing, everything is algood until i start tightening the three bolts up. Everythings mint till the bolts just start to touch the spring washers. Then the timing jumps from 15 degrees to tdc. Its not even a gradual change like what normally happens sometimes. Its like someone flicking a switch!! And it changes while I drive. at times the cars gutless and pops out the exhaust between gears, other times it goes mint... The engine is a Rb20det.

Our rego is only like $300 a year though..

Well I checked everything off on my list, making some decent power pre tune. Luched two gearboxes and a diff haha Run a 14.2 @104mph. Would have done better but a lost 5th so had to pull the pin. New box and a tune will see me in the 13's

I took the guts out of my idle control and put a small manual lpg power valve (like a tap) in the line to the idle control. All sorted now.

Look out for white marks too, they indicate the spark arcing to earth. Check the plugs while your at it. The earth and the electrode should have nice sharp edges, not rounded. If the plugs look old replace them anyway. Cheap plugs are fine, stick to big brands like NGK and champion. Dont bother with iridiums

Could be as simple as needing new plugs lol Detonating is basically the fuel/air exploding. Smashes pistons and rings.... The technical term for detonation as "two flame fronts colliding". It can be cause by improper fuel miXture or preignition. Preignition is when the fuel ignites before its suppose to.

Sounds like a weak coil. Probably spark breaking down in the high rev range. I hope for your engines sake its not detonating. Mine would clink when it was doing this.

Was the nut loose? If no look somewhere else mate. Something has worn out. Take it to a garage and ask for an opinion. They shouldn't charge if they think they might get a job out of it. I think it's either UJs, CV or diff back lash. It could be anything really. I had a Subaru at work that was making a clunk noise on rough ground. Believe it or not it was the brake pads were loose in the caliper and were jumping up and down. The point I'm trying to make is it could really be anything and unless you have dicked with something tighting all of the bolts in the world isn't going to solve your issue. And if it is a loose bolt thank you lucky stars your drive shaft hasn't dropped Out...

My commy did this when the cv in the drive shaft was worn

Thanks, I have no idea. It's yet to be dynod and tuned, but it goes like a cut cat. It was as fast as my mates 25DET but his wasn't Running right haha. Thanks I Will try that, I recently cleaned the boost tee and now its stable as. Was full of black gunk and would hit 15 pound and creep back to 13psi etc. Good now though! Goes to show how much of an impact that black stuff makes.

I always just tuck them close to the pod filter. They don't have to be in the intake. So long as its sensing the same air around the filter should be fine. Unless someone can tell me the filter changes the air temp lol.

Yeah I set mine too, but they dont seem to take much of a knock to upset them. I also grabbed the wheel on the throttle body and turned it. It wasnt fully closed so when I had set it up before it wasnt set with the throttle on the stop haha. so I cleaned the butterfly too.

We were in a pinch once and use a builders wood saw to cut some alloy intercooler pipe. worked so well we have done it again. Cuts fast and straight, much straighter than a hack saw anyway haha

I just changed my plenum and it was doing the exact same thing, Tps was just a fraction out ( .58v ) so I set that again and I reset my idle. seems good now.

Well took it out for its first drive in ages..... looks like I need a new clutch and it stalls sometimes when I pull up to a stop, a slight miss on decel and a miss just as boost comes on that goes away. Yet to look into it but I think either it has a air leak or the cheap fuel reg is shit house. Other than that very happy with how it runs and how much more power it has, surprisingly torquey with my monster plenum Here is my birthday skid for my 21st a few months back and how the engine bay looked not so long ago

Sorted. Exposed wire under gear stick boot. Blew the fuses.

Thanks dude but any particular Sr? Silvia, primera, etc

vacuum air leak

I need to fit a longer throttle cable for my plenum, cant find a longer one and no one has cable thick enough for me to make the stock one longer and they are not very helpful haha, they all think its too hard and send me on my way. Wouldnt be the first time making a throttle cable, ah well. just the way it goes. So what is a good cable to use as an alternative or is there aftermarket ones to suit.

This is my black four door. It started off life as a gun metal grey 20e auto. when I got a hold of it it was black, manual and 20de. I have since converted it to 20DET and I am in the process of getting it certified. Mods: 20det 25det turbo front facing plenum alloy radiator front mount intercooler waste spark. to do: adjustibles drive shaft hoops 5 stud and brakes cert boost controller Only plans for it are to be a street car thats can be taken to the track and be raced, dragged, skidded or drifted.

Long story short . Was at a skid comp, blew a heater hose and now my head lights don't work. Power at relay coil, none anywhere else, not even at dash switch. A wiring diagram would be an advantage. R32 sedan