DETurbine

Seeing if anyone knew if the R34 Neo 5spd manual transmission will work on the R33 RB25DET?....I have an S13 right now with an RB25 in there and had the stock R33 5spd, but it gave out and cant find that many R33 transmissions around. Found this R34 Neo transmission that I can pickup, but wanted to make sure that the bell housing would bolt up to the back of the block without a problem and also check to see if it is the same general overall size so that I wouldnt have any troubles with the tranny tunnel or driveshaft that I had made for the R33 setup. Thanks

Does anyone know if the internals on both the Z32 and R33 Rb25 transmssions are the same. I have heard from others that they are the same, only differance is the shift linkage, outer casing, and the bell housing. I have a RB25 trans right now that the cyncro had went out. I was wondering if I can take the 300zx internals and put the outer casing, shift linkage, and bell housing on and make it work... Help would be great, Thanks... ***I live in the USA and RB trannies are very hard to come by, if you find them they are upwards of $1k usd....the 300zx can be found here for $250-300 on average.

Has anyone done this or can confirm that this can or can not be done?

We are not running the power fc, so we do not have the capability of adjust it. We need to totally take it off or disactivate it.

I am running a new stand alone that is some what a DIY setup. I have known that you can take this out and disactivate it, but is it more then just wiring or do you have to physically take it out some how? Or is it something that we could trigger with a new stand alone? How is it triggered with an on/off at a certainor RPM or does it use a pulse width modulation? We will not be using the stock coil packs or ignition system....we are actually using a Ford Edis 6. Help would be greatly thankful.

ok thanks for the reply and info. Now the next question is are the internals of the transmissions the same?....could I use a VG30DETT 3/4th syncro gear in my RB25DET transmission?

I have heard that this can be done, but am not sure if it is the true or false. If it does work work what tranny can you use (VG30DE and/or VG30DETT)? My RB25 tranny has gone out and I can get ahold of a VG30DE tranny here in the states for $200. If I were to get ahold of a RB25 tranny it would at least cost me around $800+. Help would be thankfully blessed.

Is the ignitor actually inside the ecu or is it in the coilpacks? I have heard both about equally and am trying to figure out which location is true. I am throwing together a stand alone system that has not been done before on the RB's and that is one thing I need to figure out. Thanks,

Well I am just getting my motor done and have kinda put off my RB25DET manual tranny which the 3/4 syncro started to go out. I have heard from others that the Fairlady/Z32 300zx VG30DETT tranny internals are the same. I can get the syncro from Nissan out here in the states for $130usd, but want to make sure that they are the exact same before I spend the money. Can anyone confirm that these are the same internals?...has anyone done this yet?

I wanted to find out what is an average of what the stock RB26 444cc injectors will support (HP)?....I was figuring it out myself and was thinking that they could probably handle 400hp with an aftermarket fpr....and crank up the fuel pressure a little. Help would be great.

I am wondering if Supra 2jz injectors will work on my RB25? To me they look like the same size and connector size. From what I have kinda put together they are just like the RB25's and 13B Rx7 injectors, but I am not totally sure. Just wanted to find out if anyone else has done this or know if it can be done.

Just wondering if anyone has tried these exhuast manifolds out. If so how are they holding up and how do they flow?

I will not be using my car for the autocross or anything like that. I am using it for drag and that is it, so getting the best response is not my number one goal. My setup is going to be working perfect for me and I am not going to spend that much more to get a little bit more response and a few more horse. Not sure about over there, but people over here in the states are into building their own and I have seen the exact same design plenums as what I am doing and they have got great results. I too am building my own motor, just taking it to the machine shop to get all the machine work done, then me and a few friends will be putting it back together, fixing my tranny, and fabricating all the parts for my turbo setup and so on. I guess you can just call me a cheap DIY kind of guy, but it has been working for me and my friends for some time now.

Was thinking more on the lines as if they were welding their own plenums. I can get one made as I had stated....for less then $500. Just need to go ahead and ask them if they will draw back the price if we get a group buy from them. Will talk to them allot more this week, as I have not talked to them for a few months about some things.

Give me $500....and I will make you a peice just like theirs that will flow just as much and even come with velocity stacks to help out the flow even more.

I do get your point, and as I had said they are making a good manifold, but sorry for the price it is totally not worth anyones money. You want me to make a manifold just like theirs that flows just as much if not more. I have the shops out here that can get the perfect airflow for these RB's and I can do it for like I had said $500 or less. Not sure about there, but out her in the states, metal fabrication is every where. Especially here in the midwest where I am located. They have state of the art machines that can make it just as easy and precise as any other place out there and will do it for a reasonable price. The 27hp increase isn't bad, but majority of the aftermarket plenums out there will open up the power just as much. I have seen simple square style plenums on a few 2jz's that increased it to a 20hp gain from a stock form 2jz, it's actually the same design as what I intend to get. The thing that upsets me and is why I made the negative comment is because I know how much these cost to be produced and probably a pretty good clue of what they put into them.....why they are trying to get so much profit out of them shows how they really operate and treat others. Every business is in it for the money, but most are not that stupid to increase the price another $1,000 (USD) on top of their build cost. I am sure that they are welding these together on their own, so I have a pretty good clue on how they are getting these plates and the top dome cut outs.

First off we are talking about a forced induction application. It does not have to be intensely designed to flow a good amount of air into the motor like you would need with a naturally aspirated application. The turbo pushes heavy amounts of pressure into the plenum, so even a basic design like I posted will work great. People put to much thought into plenums, when even the most plain and simple designs will work just as well. Check out Igor from NGR performance. He has a basic square plenum like the one I posted, but bigger diameter and is making 585hp with his T61 on his RB25. Also I know exactly how much goes into those plenum bolt ons, because I have talked to many metal fabrication shops even locally that will custom make them for less then $500 and can have any bent and rounded design that I ask for. That is also going to be the price as just one. Make a quanity of them (20+) and you will see the price drop substantially.... would be in the $350-400 range. I am also going to bet that the Greddy's flow just as much or even a little more then these, with less then half the cost and look better in my opinion, since they are not using the long stock runners. We are talking about a bolt on for the stock runners, it is not even a whole intake manifold and they are wanting it for that cost. Sorry, but in my opinion no plenum should ever be that much. I get a good laugh when people spend this amount on items that can be done for 1/5 the cost. $2,300 (US currency) and I will get a setup that will make 550-600hp. That is including a T61, 38mm external wastegate, 50mm bov, aftermarket fuel rail, piggy back/stand alone, 740cc injectors, FMIC w/ piping, moded stock exhaust manifold, 6puck clutch setup, custom downpipe, and custom intake plenum. Plain and simple, people waste their money on things that can be made and done for allot cheaper. People love to buy named brands and are pretty much paying for the heritage and name of the product. Not saying that the parts are not quality, because they are, but most just do not realize that it can be done for quite a bit cheaper and be just as good as quality as the others. People with a some what similar setup as I just listed above, but they are just buying named brand products are easily spending around the $5400, while people like me are out there spending more then half what they did and are as equal of a power range. Wouldn't you be ashamed if you spent that much and found out that there are others out there who are making more power then you with less then 1/2 the price as you have in yours? Say as much negative comments as you would like, doesn't bother me one bit, because once the motor is out of the machine shop, has the turbo setup, all the custom fabricated parts, and other supports on there, we will see how much power it can throw out. I have a feeling that it is not going to be to bad at all. I will post the car, motor, and results up once it is all done and complete.

$1500 for a top bolt on?....that is a rip if you ask me (That is $1,150 US currancy). That is not even the whole plenium, you are just talking about a half bolt on that bolts staight onto the stock runners. You can get the greddy one for $777 AUD that flows more then yours, looks better and is made by a quality top of the line company. I am getting a custom one made from a guy out here for $323 AUD ($250 US currancy). It is a bolt on just like yours, but almost garentee that it flows just as well. I almost bet that you guys are getting these made for less then $300 (US currancy) and then are trying to sell them for $1,150!. Would never support a company like that.....Have fun selling those 47+ manifolds... I won't be one of them. Here are some pictures of the $323AUD plenium that I am getting: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/13036/rb240c.jpg http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/13034/rb240.jpg

Thanks allot guys for the help and information. For the head gasket I am probably going to end up running a 1.2mm, from my knowledge and research you are more likely to blow a head gasket the ticker it gets.

I am talking about stock RB26 rods. So it doesn't matter what gen I get (R32-R34) RB26 rods...they should all work fine in my SII RB25DET? I am going to most likely going to have to deck the block and mill the head a good .5-.8mm, to get that compression up. Wiseco's make some great pistons for the money, the only down side is that for some reason they make it dished which will throw it at a 7.9:1 c/r. Decking the block and milling the head down a little should put me around 8.5:1+. I would go to another piston, but the Wiseco's are $650 (US currancy) and after that comes the CP which runs $780, but I have heard more positive feedback from Wiseco then CP. For the turbo I am going to be running a T61 with a .83 a/r. Is capable of 700hp, so the top end is not going to be the problem. I am going to have to make up for the lower end power, which I am going to be making custom intake manifold which will have some long runners and velocity stacks...to make as much velocity as I can to make some torque for the lower end.

Ok I have some more questions for you guys, just to get everything cleared up, becuase I keep hearing different things from a bunch of knowledgable people. Would rather here it from those that have done this before. I am going to be taking the block to the machine shop and will be ordering my RB26 rods this week. I am going to be putting some RB26 rods in my SII RB25DET, so here are the questions I have for you guys: 1.I have been told from some that these will fit right in with no modification or grinding down and then from others I have been told that the rods are not a perfect fit and that you will have to grind away the rod slightly. Does anyone know which is true? 2. Do all (R32-R34) RB26 rods fit the same?....are they all the same? 3. Doing RB26 rods in my RB25, should I get the RB25 Wiseco's or the RB26 Wiseco's?....or are they all identical? ***(becuase from what I know Wiseco makes 86.5 and 87mm in the RB25's, but with the RB26 they only make the 87mm......that would creat a problem, becuase I do not want that low of a compression ratio...which from my knowledge...doing Wiseco 87mm for the RB and running a 1.2mm head gasket will creat a 7.9:1 compression ratio (which I am wanting more of a 8.3:1- 8.5:1 ratio))

I am getting the Wiseco's, becuase they are the cheapest and are pretty well made pistons, so I have to go with what they give me which is just the 86.5 or 87mm piston. The only way of me correcting my compression is by decking the block and milling the head down, but I need to know what the compression is going to be at before I decide, hence the reason why I am asking. Could use the help, Thanks, Zach

Hey all... I am trying to get some more information of the RB25DET. I am trying to figure out what my compression is going to be at once everything is all built. In order to find out my compression, this is what my machine shop will need to know (so if anyone could help me out that would be great): 1. RB26 rod length? 2. Compression heigth of Wiseco 86.5mm pistons? 3. Combustion camber? 4. cc of Wiseco piston and if it is a dish or dome piston? I am worried, becuase I have heard when people do the Wiseco's 87mm and a 1.2mm head gasket they get a compression ratio of around 7.9:1 and that is of course way to low for my blood. I atleast want to get around 8.6:1 or so, and if this is true I will probably end up milling the head down and decking the block also. Thanks, Zach

Finally got around to pulling my motor apart. Had about three short nights to take it out of the car, pull the tranny, sand blast a few parts, get the motor up on the stand and then took pretty much everything off the block. Finally last night we got around to pulling the head, and taking the rods and pistons out. Cylinder #6 was giving us troubles getting it out, but we ended up getting it out. Ended up that when I blew my motor, I actually melted piston #6.Not what I had thought had happened, but wasn't that surprised. It wasn't that bad, but surely would have really took a melting if I would have drove it for much longer. All the other pistons looked good, no spun bearings, and rods were in great shape still. The cylinder wall on #6 was a little scuffed up and had a little piece of piston melted on the side, but that is nothing that a .5mm bore couldn't take care of. Now it is time to finally take it to the machine shop and get it bored out, honed, fitted, milled, decked, etc...then some Wiseco 86.5mm pistons, ACL bearings, ARP head studs, ARP rod bolts, rods, 1.2mm head gasket, and some work to the head. Then will go the big upgraded turbo, tial wastegate, custom intake manifold, FMIC, 740cc injectors, aftermarket fuel rail, 6 puck, and piggyback. It is going to be allot of fun this summer once it is out....can't wait to get it back on the streets and to the track with it's make over!....just some long days ahead of me, but I love working on cars, so it will be fun for the most part.

I am taking apart my motor and am trying to find out what size hex key I need. I tried a 10mm, so I am thinking 12mm?, or maybe it is a odd size (11mm), but doubtful I am sure. If you guys could let me know that would be great, Zach