DETurbine

Trying to find out what size the stock head gasket is? Thanks, Zach

I have a set of brand new HKS cam gears for the RB's. I am selling them for $383.50 AUD/$300USA + shipping. These are coming from the USA, but I will ship to out side of the USA. If anyone is interested you can email me at: [email protected] Thanks, Zach

I am going to be putting some power to this motor and don't want to risk anything. Do you think that these RB30 mains will be fine?....last thing I would want to do is spin a bearing. Which should I get...ACL RB30 or Nissan OEM RB25DET bearings for my RB25? Also I just looked up in ACL's catalogue and they have the RB30E and the RB30ET....I am guessing that the main bearing are the exact same on the two...did I guess right? Thanks for the help.

Thanks allot guys for the research and information. So for my RB25DET with RB26 rods I should use the RB30E main bearings and SR rod bearings? Also I am guessing that when you guys say "big end" you mean rod bearings right?

Yeah I meant bearings. So let me get this right....you can use the RB26 and RB30E main bearings on the RB25, and you can also use the RB26 and SR rod bearings for the RB25?

No the Mega Squirt is pretty much a full stand alone, just like the power FC. You have the choice of buying the circuit board and making your own box or you can buy them pre made. It can adjust fuel, ignition (not for distributorless motors yet), knock, and has spaces for add-ins such as a two step, etc.... I have heard that there is going to be new software that will allow it to control distributorless motors. Also like a freind has told me, when you get to a certain power range your ecu will automaticly adjust it's timing. For $250, I think it is totally worth it. THere are a bunch of 12-11sec cars running this unit on their cars and love it.

I see that ACL has the mains for the RB25DET, just the rods that they do not have. So you can use the SR's conrod bearings for the RB25?

Was wondering if any of you guys have tried the Mega Squirt on there cars? I am probably going to go this route with my RB25DET, but it is kinda sketchy on if you can run the ignition and spark, since it is a distributorless motor. My friend is thinking that there might be a way to do it, but not for sure. Also there is talk about new software that will allow this. For $250 (US currancy), it is totally worth it in my eyes.

ACL makes the RB bearings now?....You mean the bearings are the same bearings as the SR's?

I am in the process of rebuilding my RB25DET motor and just wanted to make sure before I purchase these rods. Can you use RB26 rods with the in a RB25DET with the stock RB25 crank and RB25 forged pistons?. Should I get RB25 or RB26 forged pistons?.....also what conrod bearings should I use?....RB25 or RB26's? I almost 90% sure that there will be no problem with this, just wanted to double check perfore I do it. Help would be greatly appreachated, Zach

I already have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and will probably be using the stock regulator, which the Mega Squirt will be able to tune, if it will have problems controlling it, then can always get a $100 nismo fpr.

I am getting my pistons from: http://www.rpmmachine.com/wiseco_pistons_s...rtcomp_m_v.html They are selling them for $660 for the pistons, wrist pins, and rings.

Here is my RB25DET in my S13 240sx. It will be looking allot different in about 4 months, once it is back from the machine shop and has a turbo upgrade with all the supports.

I am looking for a stock RB26 fuel rail, so if anyone has a spare and wants to sell it let me know. I live in America just to let you guys know.

Well it is about that time that my project is restarted. I have had a break away from it saving and researching some things before I just go head over heels and do something that I would regret. About a year and a half ago I swapped a RB25DET SII into my USDM 240sx and just last summer I ended up leaning it out to far and blew my motor. Did a compression test on it after and it was as followed: cylinders #1-5 were at around 110psi and cylinder #6 was at 25psi!. This weekend I will be taking apart my motor and will probably see a blown piston in #6 and might even find shot rings and/or broken ringlands in the other five cylinders. I am going to be taking it to the machine shop next month After the motor is back in I will shortly after be putting on my turbo upgrade and the supports for it. Just need to keep saving like I have been doing and in about 3-4 months it should be all done and driving. I will keep this thread updated as I go on.

Thanks for the reply guys. I am sure it is a piston that gave out (#6), but I have a feeling that I cracked the rest of the ring lands on all the other five. Same thing happend to my friends RB26. I just hope that a build up of pressure did not get down into my crank case and cause damage to anything else. I went over there last night to check out a few things and checked the dipstick and there was no oil that was shot out of it, so hopefully that is a good enough sign to show that there was not that much pressure in the case. Normally even when pressure it build up in there, it does no damage to the rods. I am going to get my rods machined and checked and also turn the crank as well. Really hoping that I will have to do nothing to the head. Just really sucks not knowing what damage it really did and am not going to know for at least another 3-4 days. Oh well have waited this long, so a few more days is not going to hurt. Going to take me another 30min to pull the motor out (just the two mounts and tranny mounts left) then probably an hour to hour and a half to get my tranny off, motor on a stand and head and oil pan off as well, then will be able to see what went on. I will keep you guys updated, Zach

3LIT3 FORS3- Thanks.....what format are those files?....I tried opening them with Adobe and they would not support that format.....are they just copied from the R33 manual?, becuase I have the whole Manual on disk. Thanks agian, Zach

I have it on CD and just want to double check to see if I have it all. I have 491 pages......is that all of them or am I missing some pages? I am trying to get the torque specs for the block (crank, rods, etc.....). There are the specs for the RB26 but nothing for the RB25, are the torue rates the same on both? Help would be very appreachated, Zach

Thanks for the reply guys. I was always aiming towards the thought that I blew my piston or cracked a ring land. I just was not 100% sure. I am going to take it apart hopefully in the next few weeks and take a look at it to find out for sure. If that is the case the I will be adding some new 87mm Wiseco's, ARP head studs, shot peen the rods, ARP rod bolts, turn the crank, 1.2 Grex head gasket, and then that should keep me happy for a while. Just hope nothing else got damaged (rods, crank, anything in the head, etc....). For those that have blown a piston, was anything else damaged? Thanks, Zach

Well it is finally time to see what is wrong with my motor. Ending of last summer I was tunning my car with my new Nismo FPR and while in the process of doing some test pulls blew my motor. I gave it a pull and noticed an dramatic power loss followed by smoke pouring out my exhaust. I then took it back to my friends house (a few blocks away) and opened the hook to see oil sprayed on the side of my strut tower (shot out from my HKS BOV). We then did a compression check on it and it was as followed....first 5 were about 110psi and cylinder #6 was only 25psi. We looked into the cylinders through the spark plug wholes and noticed quite a bit of oil in the cylinders, especially #6. I took the intake piping and intercooler off and it was drenched in oil. A few days later we start it again and start to notice that it is making a sputtering/ knocking kind of noise (not sure if it was really knocking, to me it sounded like more of a compression sputtering noise). I am not sure what the problem is and wanted your guys opinion on what it could be. I am going to do a leak-down on it at the end of this week to narrow it down and hopefully find out what the problem is for sure. Just wanted to see what you guys thought before I did that. When it blew I noticed a dramatic power loss and it seemed like blueish/white smoke. I did not notice if the water temp was climbing or not, since his place was only two blocks away. Before this had happened I have always noticed oil coming out of the turbo, so I am sure that is where the oil came from and probably totally gave out when I turned up the boost to 14psi on that test run. I took my top section of the intake manifold off a few months back and noticed that there were puddles of oil down the gallies. I am really hoping that it could be the head gasket, but something is telling me since the compression test was an even 110 (almost all the way through) except #6 (25psi) that it is probably the rings or ring lands...or can a head gasket have that same compression test result?. Let me know what you guys are thinking if you could. Thanks, Zach

They are a high impedence top feed injector. I have two friends that have done this so far on their Hondas and are having great results. The easiest way of cutting the tip off of them is to get dog nail clippers with the curved blade and apply a little pressure to them while turning it around the tip, which normally will cut them off in about 2-3 360 degree turns. The flow rate on them are all within 1% of each other and have heard no one having problems with not having equal flow rates. Just to be safe, you can send them in and get them checked for the flow rate normally for $5 per injector. The clips are the only issue right now, but is possible to use the subaru injector clips. You can get some .110 tab and seal them with silicone and will work perfectly fine.

Has anyone done it yet?. I compared the two a few months back and the injector ports seemed to line up, just the mounts on the RB26 rail were just a little different, but could easily make new mounts for it (either extension add on or just cut the old ones off and take up some new ones. Just curious to see if anyone has done this yet.

I was curious to see if anyone has subaru injectors on their RB26, RB20, or RB25 (converted to top feed injectors)? My friend has them on his civic and work great. If you clip the tip off the injector they are 740cc injectors and you can pick them up for around $70-90 for a set (4 injectors). I have an RB25DET, but will be buying a RB26 fuel rail to make it top feed. Then will be getting the subaru injectors. Just curious if anyone has done this before....

The main reason they make different plenums is becuase the bolt pattern is different from the two. For the runners flowing differently, what would stop some one from port matching them and smoothing them out?

Thanks for the info sidneykid, I know what the SAFC does and how it works, just wasn't sure where people have taken it (max hp). I know a few shops here in the states have taken it a little past 450hp....just checking if anyone has taken it past the 500hp mark. Do you guys think it will be safe to use the SAFC and Q45 maf to 450hp and then in the near future get a power fc and tune it to my 600hp goal? Has anyone used the ROM tune on their ecu?