DETurbine

I am with you lukevl, I am also planning on doing this to my RB25 in the next 6months and am not doubting that there will be an increase in the flow. I would almost put money on it and say that the GTR surge tank flows equaly if not more then the Greddy surge. The individual throttle bodies are also good for around a 1000hp, so you wont have to be worring about upgrading to a bigger single throttle body. Also I would rather spend $250 rather then $700+ on the greddy. When do you plan on doing this?.....I was going to make an adapter plate also, and wouldn't mind seeing how yours turns out.

so the SAFC is capable of 500-550hp? I have not really seen that many use it after they get around 450+, but then agian those that have the money to achieve 500-600hp normally have the money to go stand alone. I do not though. I do plan on getting a Power FC sooner or later, but will not have the money right away. I will have an SAFC and a adjustable FPR....and am hoping to acheive 500-500hp, if possible. Would like to hear everyones opinion first and see if it is possible.

I am going to rebuild my block over the winter, since it leaned out and my rings or ring lands went out. I am going forged pistons, rings, ARP head studs, and metal head gasket. The setup should be good to a little over 600hp with ease. My question is that I don't have that much money and am affraid that I am spending it all on the motor getting rebuilt and a bigger turbo with a few other goodies (FMIC, 720-850cc injectors, etc....). My question to you guys is that I know the Q45 MAF can handle right around 600hp, but will an Apex'i SAFC or ROM tunned ecu handle those numbers? What is the SAFC good to? Also does anyone have another method or idea? I just don't have the money to get an expensive stand alone (PowerFC, Link, Haltech, etc......) Help would be greatly appreachated....thanks

I think I will stay with the Wiseco pistons which are only $660 with pins, rings, etc..... What are you guys recommending me to do about the VVT?.....Keep it and just run the HKS intake cam gear or take the VVT out and run both the HKS gears?

ok, I have been searching all over and can't seem to find the specs on the RB25DET SII. Took my turbo off and there are no a/r on the compressor or turbine. Does anyone know the stock ar specs on this turbo? Also I have heard people taking these turbos up to 350hp. Is this true?

bump

I am looking for some stock GTR rods (R33 if possbile). Let me know if anyone has any and how much they want. Thanks

Thanks for all the information. I think I will be sticking to the RB25 head. I would love to get a hold of an RB26 head, but would be looking more then I want to spend or would spend on the RB25 head. I will not be drilling and tapping the head or block in order to have the RB26 intake and exhuast manifolds to work, it is simply an adapter plate with two extra studs. Going to make them with my friend and will be made for under $100. As I said, wish I could do the RB26 head, but don;t have the money for that. Anyone have a set of GTR stock rods? Also would you guys recommend getting rid of the VVT and equiped my HKS came gears on there or would I be better off just putting the HKS intake gear on and leaving the VVT? maximajim- how much are the CR 9.1 pistons?, if I can get them with the rings under $700 then I will go with those. Possibly might go with those mattering on pricing.

Ok my rings or ring lands just went out on my RB25DET and am going to be taking it to the machine shop once the season ends. As of right now I plan on putting Wiseco pistons in (8.4:1), ARP head studs, shot peen the stock rods, and 1.5mm metal head gasket. How much power do you think this setup is capable of? There is a guy here in the USA that made 586rwhp on the stock RB25DET motor (not even an aftermarket headgasket or studs). I am thinking I should be good to about 700hp. After all the machine work is done I am going to be making an adapter stud plate for the exhuast manifold and intake manifold and will be putting on the RB26 twin manifolds with Z31 turbos on (capable of around 600hp) and also the RB26 surge tank with the indavidual throttle bodies off and a RB25 throttle body welded on the end. I also just purchased HKS cam gears and am wondering if I can run both of them or if I can just run the intake cam with the VVT? or is it better to cancel out the VVT and run both HKS cam gears? This is in my USDM 240sx if wanted to know. I am shooting for a low 11's on this setup if not lower. Traction is going to be the problem. Going to be a cheap setup, but to me that's the way to go ($2000 into all the parts and machine work for the internals and $2000 into all the bolt-ons (turbos, manifolds, injectors, etc...) Any suggestions would be great.

Over the weekend I had the chance to go to the 1/8th mile and go race my car. Here is my current setup: 180sx (USDM S13 240sx Fastback) SII RB25DET Apex'i GTspec exhuast 3inch down pipe and test pipe ACT 2100HD clutch custom one peice driveshaft R200 VSLD Nitto 225 drag radials (no tread pattern left....fried!) sportline lowering springs on blown stock struts (and I mean blown!....lol) stock SMIC 10psi ......Other then that it is completly stock setup Here is what I ran: 60ft- 1.971 330- 5.528 1/8th- 8.5 MPH- 82.85 I had a way better run then that, probably would have been a 8.3 or better, but teh clock board was down!.....I was a little upset at that. Oh well there is always next time.

I am using the stock R33 ECU.

so how efficient is the stock R33 turbo? I have been wondering myself. Some say 12psi and others say 15psi. Around here people are craving these ball bearing turbos and I could sell it for $350-400. Sell that and just spend another $200-150 on top of that profit and get a T3/T04e .63ar, which would bolt right up and could make around 500HP. There is a shop out here in the states that is running to same turbo on the stock manifold (moded with an external wastegate) and custom down-pipe. They have a Apex'i S-AFC, 720cc injectors, 6puck, and FMIC and are making 450rwhp.

From what I have been told it is pretty much the same turbo specs as the S15 T28, added on the T3 flang, ceramic wheel, and different make. I know the T28 are found to go up around 17psi and still be efficeint. What is limiting the RB25 turbo to only 12psi? So by adding on the FMIC you think it will be a dramatic power change from the stock SMIC?

I have a RB25DET Series 2 in my USDM 240sx S13. The motor has 30k on it and is healthy. I right now have the stock SMIC, but within about 2-3 weeks I am going to be putting on a Pro-Charger FMIC that will be able to support up to 800HP. My question is I have heard that the stock turbo can handle more boost if it has low miles on it and is healthy. I know it has a ceramic wheel and is held on the shaft by a strong glue and over time with high amounts of boost will break apart and shoot the turbine wheel out the exhaust. I am running 10psi right now, but plan on taking it up to 15psi once I get the FMIC on there. Do you guys think I will be safe with the turbo only having 30,000 miles on it? How long do you think the turbo will last? I will have a T3/T04e .63ar on it by next summer, so I am not going to be running the stock turbo for that much longer. Let me know, Thanks

I have an R33 RB25DET SII in my us spec 240sx. I have been having some issues with my car running so rich and have talked to a couple of people about what it could be. I put a wideband on the car about a month ago and here are the readouts: GEAR A/F Ratio 1st- low 12's 2nd- high to mid 11's 3rd- low 11's to mid 10's 4th- low 10's I am blowing flames all the time and know it is hurting my power allot. I have replaced the o2, checked the wiring agian and everything is working properly. Checked for vacume leaks and Intercooler leaks which I can't find, unless there is a small leak or puncture which I can't see and opens up at full boost. I also checked the fuel pressure from the fuel pressure regulator....it read around 50psi or so. A friend of mine is saying since I have a walbro fuel pump it is flowing way to high for the RB25's stock ecu and that it should only be at 43psi. My question to you guys is he right.....should the RB25 only be flowing 43psi? Or do you know any other reason why it is running so rich? He recomends me getting an adjustable FPR and tuning it down. Thanks, Zach