nedb

The $220 was in Blacktown. I'll probably go to him unless something better pops up.

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I wen't to get regassed mine on the weekend and I was told it needs to be converted. $220 for conversion and new gas but they need to order the parts in. Does anyone know of anyone who can regas with old gas? If so PM me.

Sometimes my car would start pulling to the side once i hit 65 - 70 and the HICAS kicks in. It feels like drifting but without the wheel spin. The steering wheel has to be turned up to 2 o'clock to get the car to go straight. Once i slow down bellow 60 it fixes itself up. Also, after about 10km the HICAS light would come on and then i guess the HICAS comp would shut itself off and the steering would straighten out. Now I've just unplugged the computer in my R32. The dash light doesn't come up now and it drives straight.

Another for sales pitch. I got a Hybrid one and nothing wrong with it. I got the whole kit for $1100 and I'm happy with it.

GREDDY PRofec-B Type S Electronic Boost Controller Brand new, still in the box. Its black with chrome buttons. Based on the old PRofec-B http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/020...boostcontrol05/ but with the newer and faster solenoid (same as for PRofec e-01 & PRofec-B Spec II). http://greddy.com/prod_proftype-s.htm Located in Sydney $500 ono + postage

My mate just decided to sell his Bluebird SSS Attesa so if anyone is interested let me know. He's asking for $15 500. Mods are: 3" exhaust, FMIC and 18" chrome wheels and full suspension setup (Whiteline). The rest of the car is stock. The car has been tuned by Croydon Motorsports and it produces 146 awkw and it ran 13.3 sec at Eastern Creeck. The car is in Sydney.

My mate has one of these and with the front mount, exhaust and 1 bar made 146 awkw at Croydon dyno and ran a 13.3 at the Eastern Creek. GTiR box fits but the gear ratio is different.

Anyone? Offers?

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I'm looking forward to seeing the results. So I guess they did the same thing they would have done to the RB25 turbo when hi-flowing to 450hp. I wonder if it makes the difference which one they use?

Is that 103 all wheels or just rear wheels? If its all it sounds ok but if its rear it sounds a bit sick.

Vary nice, How much did it cost and how long did it take if you don't mind? Also, what hp figure is it designed for? I'm looking forward to seeing the dyno comparison running the same boost.

check this link out. if you did a search you whould've found it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...5+turbo+upgrade

Still for sale. Price update: $500

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Brand new, still in the box. Its black with chrome buttons. Based on the old PRofec-B http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/020...boostcontrol05/ but with the newer and faster solenoid (same as for PRofec e-01 & PRofec-B Spec II). http://greddy.com/prod_proftype-s.htm Located in Sydney $500 + postage (RRP: $600)

And what about that 4 yr old in USA driving to the video store and hitting the parked car. He learned to drive from video games. 4 yrs old and got fined for driving unlicensed. But back on the topic ... Nothing will be resolved by force and threats. It’s exactly what people rebel from and if anything it can make the problem worse. Higher fines, confiscation of cars, loss of licenses just won't work. People don’t think about it until it happens. And when it happens they still don’t learn from it as they don’t see themselves to be at fault because they don’t know better. So the grudge against the government and the rebellion kicks in again and when they get the chance they’ll do it again. The driver training is the clear and the only answer for the new drivers and this should start through school, not just the 50 or so hours of the compulsory training before they get the license. As for the current drivers government has to look at the situation and try to manage it while working with people they are targeting, not working against them. If government was to cooperate with management at the drag strips I’m sure they could come up with something that would attract racers from the street to the drag strip. This way the situation would be under control and manageable and it would make the streets safer and safe lives. And if saving lives is the goal here then I don’t think government would mind spending some money on this, or would they?

I just found this on eBay. Not sure how good they are but is seams to be the same thing. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...me=STRK:MEWA:IT

Hicas.

The Auto comp learns your style of driving and it adapts to you. You can over ride the computer by using the Power and Snow buttons but if you accelerate hard the Power mode will kick in by itself and it will rev out as it thinks that is what you want. If you slowly accelerate the Power mode will not turn on and it will change gears on lower revs. Hope that helps.

If it showed alcohol reading of over the limit on the breath tester, or any in P plates case, they would have to take you to the nearest police station that has proper breath tester. I forgot what it's called but it's a 15K worth instrument and it's quite large too. Not all police stations have it. The reason for taking you in is the portable units are not 100% correct and they don't get calibrated that often so it's possible to have false reading. The instrument at the police station has to be calibrated regularly. After taking your sample the instrument prints out the slip with time/date, location and the reading. If over the limit that is the one that will be used in court and it can’t be beaten except by the blood sample.

It seams you didn't loose much in the Auto trans. Good result. You might want to re-think the aftermarket ECU. It seams they are not designed for Auto gearboxes

I would like to know this as well as my gearbox has quite a bit under its belt. What other parts would need to be changed to refresh the box?

Thanx. SK that clarifies things. I was looking into the 50% plumb back option as i'm mainly concerned in blow by under boost causing detonation and i also wanna keep my new cooler piping nice and clear. My car is also an Auto so this option would not really suit me. So basically if i wanna make sure i get no blow by under boost i would have to go the 100% not legal way and filter it to atmo. I just may leave everything intact on the intake manifold side and intercept the blow by hose going into the duct and put a can in between hoping it catches as much as possible. Would that be OK? It would still be 100% plumb back but only the on boost blow by would be goin thru the can eliminating the detonation and you would possibly need less outlets on the can.