nedb

Can anyone recommend a dyno place in the syd west appart from UAS?

Ed G - How much did you pay for the injectors? Did you get the resistor with it?

Thanx guys on the replies. I'm planning to get the exhaust done this weekend - turbo back and then on the dyno, to be safe before i boost it up. Can anyone recommend any exhaust shops in sydney, preferably west but not essential. Also, dyno places? Thanx.

Ah ok, thanx. I just read the whole post and there was a post from him from Feb saying he's using rb20 ECU. Must've upgraded since then. Would RB26 injectors work on the RB20 ECU or does it need to be re-mapped?

Roy, are you running the RB26 injectors on the stadard ECU or did you have it re-mapped?

Thanx -Joel- I'll reconsider goin back to the RB20 turbo once I put the exhaust on. Did anyone else experience the same symptoms as Joel and me. Anyone with possitive feedback?

Thanx for the replies guys predator: i haven't had it tuned yet, i'm waiting till my new exhaust goes in. i was under impression that i should get more power from the turbo upgrade even on stock boost but maybe i was wrong. I hope it's just that and not some other problem. Jay95R33: I’m running the rb20 actuator, so 9 psi. I don’t have the boost controller yet but getting one. meggala: I did try to run him rolling start as well but he was still pulling away. Quite different from the stock turbo, coz then he would have an advantage at the start, up to 100 km/h where our speeds would be about the same and I’d start catchin up, but now he gets ahead at the start and stays there, maybe even keeps pulling away. Very annoying. does anyone else have any ideas? ppl who have done this conversion, what were your results on stock boost with rb25 turbo compared to the stock boost with rb20 turbo and on the increased boost with both?

Hi, I hope the following post will make sense, as I’m quite disturbed to write. Recently I did a turbo swap on my RB20. I put a RB25 turbo which was in good condition. From what other ppl said, the RB25 turbo makes 10 – 20 rwkw more than the stock one. I just had a few runs with my mate, laser with mazda-familia engine, and he was beating me more than before the turbo swap. He ran a 14.1 at the creek and he is a consistent driver, so all the times are within 1 sec. Before the turbo swap he would be beating me 1 – 2 car lengths but this time he got me 3 – 4 car lengths. His setup hasn’t changed at all. My car is R32 – auto with only a pod and RB25 turbo. It’s running 9 psi. I didn’t put the car on the dyno before the conversion so the only means of comparing the power output is against his car, and so far it doesn’t look good. I was hoping to at least even out with him, with the new turbo setup. Also, I got a 0 – 100 km/h option on my turbo timer and even that is showing I’m about 1 sec slower than before. I'm almost tempted to put the old turbo back on and go for a power run on the dyno. Does anyone have any ideas why would my car go slower than before and how to fix it? Please HELP!!!

Well my brakes are on and i'm extermly happy. I also flaushed my break fluid with Motul 5.1 and the pedal feel is excellend together with the breaking performance cold or hot.

Hi, I just need the intercooler pipe coming of the compressor outlet from the turbo. How much to ship it to syd?

Hi guys, when i was putting the new turbo on my RB20 i noticed that the stock exhaust manifold looked quite restrictive. I'm in doubt now if the aftermarket manifold would be the way to go. I guess it would increase the power on the top end but would that mean there would be more lag? So what pros and cons are there? Does anyone have any experience with them? The car is R32 auto. My mods so far are: pod filter, RB25 turbo and 3" turbo back exhaust. Any input will be apreciated. Thanx.

Hi, i'm interested in the intercooler sprayer kit. Do you have any photos of it?

Ok, the conversion went according to the plan, so I decided to write up a basic DIY info. Make sure you get the water lines and bolts with the turbo as they might not mach up as in my case. The new turbo needed the bigger bolts than the original RB20. Also, you’ll need the intercooler outlet elbow pipe as the original is slightly different. It took me and my mate around 9 hours but that included taking lunch break and a lot of smoke breaks and also sourcing the new water lines and some tools we didn’t have. Also, it included the change of engine oil and filter and new coolant. Realistically you need about 6 hours taking it slowly. Be prepared to loose all the coolant once you undo the water lines of the turbo, it happened in our case. I’m not sure about the engine oil as I drained it before taking off the oil lines, but might as well be prepared for that too and change it as well at the same time. First you need to remove the intercooler pipes so you can get to the turbo. Then, undo the dump pipe and then undo the turbo and the water and oil lines. Once we had undone the turbo bolts we couldn’t get the turbo out until we took the exhaust manifold off. So undo the manifold and the turbo should come straight out. Be patient with the bolts and make sure you have WD40 at hand. Swap the actuator from the old turbo to the new as it holds higher boost (9 psi as opposed to the RB25 6-7 psi). Install the new water lines in the engine bay. The oil ones should be the same. Put the turbo back into the bay and connect the rear water line as it will be much harder to do it later. Put the exhaust manifold back on and use some Maniseal on the gaskets. Bolt the turbo back on the manifold and connect the rest of the lines. Bolt on the dump pipe. Reconnect the intercooler piping, and inspect everything. Add the oil and add the coolant. Make sure you fill up the radiator and have the engine running with the heater on full blast till the thermostat opens and let the coolant in, then fill it up again. Inspect for any leaks under the car. Go for a test drive. The only other thing that needs to be sorted out is the little hose coming off the actuator. Instead of installing it on the intercooler end of the turbo as on the RB20 turbo you need to install it into the intercooler pipe as the RB25 turbo doesn’t have the nipple for it. I can’t confirm the performance of this turbo yet as I haven’t connected the hose yet and on my test run it hit about 18 psi, so I’m taking it slowly not till I get this done. I’m looking for a self-tapping nipple to connect the hose to the pipping. The above is only my view of the installation, and someone else might have a different or better view. Search words: rb20 rb25 vg30 turbo upgrade conversion option. Just an update: I ended up using one of the hoses running of the plenum and Ting into it for the wastegate actuator. With this turbo the car made 168 rwkw on 14 psi with a few other basic mods.

It is an 89 model so i'll make sure i get the water and oil lines of the rb25. Someone suggested using the Pirtek lines as its easier to fit them as they bend - any ideas on that? I've also heard that intercooler piping doesn't mach, 2.5" from turbo into 2" intercooler piping. Is this true? Hopefully the conversion will be done tomorrow - can't wait. :burnout:

i just got one in excel. condition for $250.

I just got rb74 for the fronts and Lukas for the rears from race breakers for $255. I heard a lot of good things about rb74 and i got the lukas on their recomendation for the all-around package. I will keep you posted once i put them on.

Hi all, as the title says i'm swaping my RB20 turbo on R32 to the RB25 this weekend. I know its a straight bolt on but I'm just wondering if there is anything else i might need for this conversion. So far i've got the turbo and the pipe going to the intercooler. I've never done this before so i got limited knowledge about it but my mate, a mechanic, will be helping out. But i dont want to get cought up missing something in the middle of conversion as it will be long weekend and no places selling parts will be open. So if anyone has any ideas it will be very apreciated. Also, if anyone knows of any DIY manuals for this type of conversion i'd be very greatful. Thanx.

Does any know what parts are needed and how hard is to install ABS on a R32. Has anyone done it? Any help would be apreciated. Thanx.

For R32 is wire #53 as well but don't do it on the automatic. I had it and i experienced a lot of problems with flatspots during the gear changes. Now its back on and it works fine

What comes with the ABS unit? Do you have the plastic and the boot for the gear stick?

I also need a copy for R32 RB20 det. Willing to pay. PM me. Thanx

Yeah it is that style of lights. I was thinking of doing the conversion to the coupe lights but it would involve too much. I would need to change the boot lid and the rear bar but and none of that would be a bolt on job on the curent rear end. So that means it would involve the cut and weld of the whole rear end.

hey funkymonkey, whats with the car above? is that the original look or did someone cut and weld? I got a 4 door and the rear end is totaly different, especially the lights.

Does the Indicator Switch and Surround include the HICAS sensor?

I got the same problem and the holes on the steering wheel are 2 - 7 o'clock. Also, sometime my car would start pulling to the side once i hit 65 - 70 and the HICAS kicks in. It feels like drifting but without the wheel spin. The steering wheel has to be turned up to 2 o'clock to get the car to go straight. Once i slow down bellow 60 it fixes itself up. Also, after about 10km the HICAS light would come on and then i guess the HICAS comp would shut itself off and the steering would straighten out. Any ides anyone?