accel junky

Thanks!

Finishing up a massive subframe overhaul on my R32 GTR. I have everything ready to lift back up but I am not sure if I should be using reusing these metal caps on top of the whiteline subframe bushes? The bushes stick up quite a bit already and the caps do not fully seat down on them. Don’t want to make a mistake and have to drop this thing again. Thank you!

I isolated that noise. It's like a foghorn sound and there is a little damper ahead of the fuel tank in the area where the 4wd pump normally sits. I got the new accumulator on. Ultimately I got impatient and used a 3 prong oil filter adapter to turn it by the end cap but unfortunately that unthreaded from the base and discharged the nitrogen sending the canister flying. There was some fluid involved but not a ton. In the future I'd wait for the steelman socket to arrive and take it off by the base. I attempted to bleed the system with the ignition on, plug under kick panel unplugged and whatnot but ultimately the pump never came on. Best I could tell it was just the noisy Nismo fuel pump priming when the ignition turned on. I'm guessing that because I have the subframe and diff dropped the grounding straps unhooked will keep the pump from running? Also the rear ABS sensors are unplugged (attached to diff currently). I hope either of those would be why the pump doesn't sound like it runs and that I did not mess up something. No prior 4WD dash light or known 4WD issues before dropping the subframe. I'd hate to put the subframe back in, hook up those grounding straps and then discover something on the 4WD pump is shot.

Thanks! I poked around there but somehow missed that comment.

The pump and lines are all still connected as it was I just bungee’d them up after I lowered the diff/subframe down. I read the same thing in the manual, it wasn’t much of a help. I feel like the pump probably depressurizes once the car is turned off (I hear sounds all the time post-shutdown) but I don’t want to assume and create a disaster.

Hey Folks, Been looking around for help with this but I’m not on social media now and info is slim out here in the Internet wilds. I’ve got the subframe out of my R32 GTR and preparing to proactively replace the accumulator on the 4WD pump. Info out there suggests I need to depressurize the system before I try to remove the original. Is this as simple as having the ignition off (hasn't been started in weeks) or is there something else that needs to be done? Prefer not to screw something up or make a huge mess. And further, would it be necessary to bleed the system after the canister is swapped? Much appreciated.

Just a quick update for future readers in case it is meaningful: while I'm still awaiting my 3 liter catch can to come to the states, I tried a few experiments to manage this blow by on the street. First, I dropped down to my 19psi, no meth/water pump gas map. Then I drained out my overfilled oil (was to the bottom of hump, now back to the top of the hash marks). I cleaned all the oil that pissed out of my tiny atmo 250ml catch can and then covered it in a loosely fitted clean ziplock bag so that I could watch for oil vapor coming out, mitigate oil spray while testing. I drove the car to work and back with a detour, all totaling about 3 hours with quite a bit of WOT pulls mixed in. Got home and the ziplock bag was pristine, just some water vapor. Drained the catch can. 17ml, mostly runny doubt much oil. I did a compression test again this time as fast as I could after shutting the car off. 177F oil temp is as high as I could get without a tstat. Compression was between 172-179 across the board. No more cyl at 10% difference. Guess these Mahle's are loose when not fully hot. Conclude that there is not a ring issue at this point. Then I did another drive next day after switching back to my 25psi meth/water map, changing nothing else. Drive was shorter...about 1-1.5 hours and full of WOT pulls. Drained catch can: 3ml, mostly runny/watery again. So that is all with a 250ml atmo catch can, factory oil level on dipstick, and the Hi-Octane baffles. I therefore must conclude that the standard practice of overfilling to the hump was sending oil back to get aerated by the crank hence my earlier issues with overwhelming the catch can and before that filling my piping/intercooler. At this point, I still have 40+ psi oil pressure drops (to lows of 40-50psi) under acceleration Gs and the only way to fix that looks like engine pull with sump extension or Accusump, as the Tomei baffle seems to not be enough. But it is not like the overfilling really helped much. I logged it at around a 5psi reduction in pressure drop to the hump vs standard oil level. I don't know how this would play out on track but I'm postponing taking it to the track until the oil pressure drops are dealt with and the larger catch can is in place. I am going to run a line from the dipstick tube to the smaller catch can in the meantime since I am getting very little in my can now.

Appreciate the thoughts on the tie rod ends. At this point HICAS has not caused me any grief and I do very much like the idea of keeping the car in the original 80s tech-wonder configuration (twins, ITBs, RWS, 4WD). The car is not track-ready yet and won't be for a while thanks to my oiling issues so I can't say I won't scrap HICAS after the first track day...

I'm in the process of doing a full suspension refresh and would like to keep HICAS working as best/tightly as it can. I have no intention of deleting or locking it. I have the ball joints already in hand and I'm looking at the tie rod ends L/R, inner rods L/R, and 2x boot kits. Are there any other parts subject to wear that I need to refresh at the rear to do this right? Would replacing the tie rod ends or inner rods even be necessary? I figure the ball joints are a no-brainer. Thanks!

I’ve got 2000 miles on it and honestly I have been punishing it pretty regularly. The only thing I’m concerned with about break in is that the builder did not honor my request for a oil thermos stat with the cooler so I struggle to get temps much above 160F (especially with it being the winter). He insisted I didn’t need it but seeing the temps on the street I should’ve held my ground. So I plan to rip all that out and run new lines with a thermostat. I did see some other manufacturers with OEM cap vents. Would the oil cap vent be of particular use even with the 12AN cam cover lines to the catch can? I’ve moved my splash shields back for the cam cover baffles too, not sure if that makes a difference for the cap.

Appreciate the responses. Engine isn’t coming out again so soon due to life so I’ve got to try to make the best of what I can get to or else park the car for a while. I figured it was probably not going to offer much but can it be worse? I’ll give you an example of street blasting: 30min drive, warm up then about 3-4 WOT high rev (8k) straight line pulls consisting of 2-3 gears each, everything logged, 25psi with meth. 100ml in the 250ml can (aware that is far too small) some of it meth or water and oil sprayed out the filter into the left side of the bay. I figure that is probably a bit much for a few quick pulls but I’d filled to the hump to sort out straight line pressure drops I’m having, so maybe aerating. I have a bigger catch can coming from hi-octane as soon as they finish the coating and with much bigger lines from the cam covers. I don’t dare take the car on the track until I have it sorted on the street. There is a possibility the engine builder left me with the blow by problem but I’m not sure yet. I have a cylinder at 10% below the highest cylinder and full improvement with a wet test but the car was shut off for 3 hours with adjacent plugs all in so not exactly a proper operating temp test.

Read backwards from pages 81-49. Wish I'd seen this before my 26 had to be pulled and rebuilt. I have a 1.5mm restrictor with N1 pump, stock sump w/ Tomei baffle, Hi-Octane baffles, oil cooler. Builder (here in the states no so experienced with these oil control topics I guess) talked me out of head drain which at this point after reading I'm not upset about any more. I tried leaving cam covers tied together and routing one to a small vented catch can which did nothing but blast my bay with oil spray (whilst overfilled to the hump...probably aerating). So I have a Hi-Octane 3 liter can incoming with 12AN fittings for each cam cover. At this point for various personal reasons pulling the motor again soon is not an option for me but otherwise being now-educated I eventually plan on extended sump with vent fittings and a smaller restrictor. Therefore, I'd love to know if anyone has had any practical experience running the dipstick to a catch can. I saw some bare mention of it a few times but it looks like few have noted ever trying it. My thinking is that if I weld a Y off the tube, I can still use the stick to check the oil level. The tube appears to terminate even further up than the sump vent fittings I've seen pictured which should be even safer for preventing oil sloshing up. I have no issues blowing out the dipstick currently. Obviously this is not the most optimal idea (fairly small opening and all...) but I'm not going on the track (very sadly) until I can pull the motor for the extended sump anyways, so I wonder if this will at least provide some worthwhile benefit for my street blasting in the meantime? My hunch is that it can only help. Crude drawing attached...

R32 GTR -5 Turbos Built 2.6L Bottom End (Mahle PowerPak 86.5mm 8.5:1 w/ Nitto I-Beam Rods, Supertec Spline Drive, N1 Oil Pump) Poncam Bs (jap spec 260), stock head otherwise w/ 150k kms Tomei Cam Gears (supposedly still zero'd, tuner stated no sense with the boost not holding...true? Seemed odd.) Tomei 1.2mm HG, ARP studs HPI dumps > HPI equal length frontpipe > Tomei Ti test pipe > Tomei Expreme Ti catback Custom MAFless intakes HKS Type R FMIC w/ Charge Piping Divided OEM TwinTurbo pipe Haltech Elite 2000 w/ Supertec IAT OEM R35 Coils w/ Supertec mount PRP Trigger kit AEM Meth/Water kit w/ 2x500cc jets on last bend before intake manifold NGK Iridum 7 heat range plugs gapped to .032" Fluidamper All accessories (PS, AC, HICAS etc.) Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Fueling: Nismo 276lph pump, PoorPeopleRacing direct wire harness, Nismo FPR, NZEFI Bosch 1000cc kit Solid line is spraying meth 49% /water 51% 24 psi but falling off. Dotted is strictly pump gas US 93 octane AKI, no meth/water, 19psi. 561 freedom ponies (418 freedom kw) / 461 freedom torques (625 freedom nm), weather corrected. Mustang 4WD dyno in 2WD near end of tuning session due to ATTESA getting fussy with the dyno, tuner said it still calculates to 4WD...not sure on that.

Sent you a PM. Got pics? Including cold side outlets? Price in AUD, NZ, or US dollars? How much is post to 30165, USA? And by what method? Thanks, Daniel [email protected]

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I'm interested in the manifolds if you are referring to the 2 exhaust manifolds for the twin turbos. Any damage or cracks? Please let me know, also how much for shipping to 30165 USA? Thanks, Daniel [email protected]

hello, I am looking for the stock turbo setup from a R32+ GTR. I'm doing a TT conversion to my RB20 and will need (I think), the stock turbos (good condition, or rebuildable but must be cheap if so), turbo manifolds, oil feeds and returns, the intake pipes for the turbos, dump pipes (hotside) and the outlet pipes (cold). I also realize I'll need the RIPS adapter but I will get with them on that. Also, if anyone knows where I can get the RB26 stock turbo outlet flanges (for building custom downpipe). That would be better than getting the stock dump pipes. Also, I may need the GTR injector equipment if that is usable on the RB20. Please email me at [email protected] I am located in the US. GA is the state. Thanks, Daniel

Hello, I have an Apexi FC Commander for an RB25DET and I'm wondering what other cars the commander will work on? Serial# FCC3 020-05488 My Power FC got a short and I need to sell the commander (works perfectly), I just wanted to know if I could advertise it to more than just the RB25 people. I cant seem to find any application guides on google or Apexi's website. Thanks for all of the help. -Daniel [email protected]

So, what about piston size? 86.5mm is the size that www.phase2motortrend.com lists for CP Pistons for the RB25. And it IS ok to get the Pauter forged rods designed for the Rb26? www.pauter.com/nissan.htm And std nissan bearings will do? Do I just order a set for main and rod in general? Or does my engine builder need to measure anything first? I'm thinking about going with a stock height metal headgasket, such as 1mm or 1.1mm any thoughts? I've contacted RIPS about their Rb30 blocks to see the price, to see if it is worth it to go that route. Thanks for the help!! Daniel

Please evaluate my series 1 rb25 rebuild plan and help me fill in the gaps as well. I lost 3 cylinders after tuning. Got 40,90,60 compression on them... going to have the motor rebuilt here in the US. I have searched thoroughly on the site but I'm still in the fog about some things: RB25 Buildup Plan: -Bottom End: Metal Headgasket: what mm thickness? ARP Head Studs: Same as SR Main Studs? Wiseco RB26 Pistons 86.5mm Comp=8.8:1 or CP Pistons 8.5:1 Pauter RB26 Rods: .827” Pin Dia Rod Bearings:? Main Bearings: ? -Maintenance OEM Waterpump or N1 Waterpump ? Power Enterprise Timing Belt (or Greddy or whoever) Nismo Thermostat ARP Exhaust Manifold Stud Set OEM Full Gasket Kit (already have) Fyi: Motor will be handling 400-500whp Thanks a ton!!! , Daniel

What vehicle/motor? ------------------- 1990 Nissan 240sx 180k miles on chassis -Series I RB25DET motor (Inline-6 turbo) 121,000 kms on motor. -Rb20det/Rb25de transmission -infiniti q45 MAF -550cc injectors -adj. fuel press regulator -Walbro 255lph fuel pump -tons of aftermarket parts Whats the problem? ------------------ When I turn the key to start (with a new battery), the engine turns over a few times, then I try cranking again and the engine jolts once and thats it. Battery is now dead. So basically as I try to start the car, all of the battery power is drained instantly. This occurs with and without the fuel pump fuse installed. So with and without fuel. What have I tried? ------------------ -Flywheel is not missing teeth. -Motor has been turned over by hand successfully -Motor has been compression checked 3 times with no problems turning over engine. (no fuel, or spark involved). -Checked battery main ground, 0 ohm. -Checked battery main power to starter, 0 ohm. -Checked starter, works fine when applied direct to battery, have a spare, both same problem. -This is the second new Battery, its an Everstart , 800 cranking amps, brand new, suitable for Toyota Supra. -Also tried a battery from a working nissan truck, same result. -Tried an extra grounding wire (fat wire) from the starter body to block. -Car rolls in neutral. -Checked ecu codes, throwing a 55 for all normal with maf unplugged. -Checked ecu codes, throwing a 12 for "MAF" with maf plugged in. (q45 maf, different voltage readouts, but maf not required for start...i dont think) -Tried cranking with maf plugged and unplugged, same result. -Fuel pump primes -fuel is getting into motor, so injectors working in some way. What can I rule out? -------------------- -Starter is not bad. -Flywheel is not seizing with starter. -Main battery cables have no resistance. -Transmission is not siezed. What are my own suspicions? -------------------------- -Possibly a short somewhere is causing all battery power to be immediately drained? -Possible bad Igniter chip -Possible bad coils -Possible bad CAS (Crank angle sensor) -Possible bad connection from coils to spark plugs. Please let me know if you have any ideas. I've searched and searched, and asked and asked but have not found anyone that has had a similar problem. R33 service manual doesn't give me any conlusions about this problem and is vague and contracdictory in testing some items. Thanks, Daniel [email protected]

Thanks for the help. Please let me know if you find anything out.

Moderators please delete this post as requested by the parts dealer. He has finally provided a tracking number, and the situation may finally be resolved. Thanks