Shaun

I prepped my standard RB26 rods too; cost me about $600 or something like that about 2 years ago. Now you can buy forged rods for US$300. While my rods are fine, i would have rather spent $300 less for forged items! Have a look on ebay USA site. I havent added it up because it ruins the enjoyment, but i must have spent over 20 grand on my rb26 conversion. Always figure out how much it'll cost, then triple it; even quadruple it! I reckon the rb30 with 25 head would be interesting. Have a look at Cubes engine bay in the engine bay photos thread. It looks great.

Hi, Since i completed my engine conversion, ive kinda been going for long drives away from civilisation and having a bit of fun. Ive discovered that my rear wheels are spinning more often than not due to ridiculous power for a rear wheel drive. When i look in the rear vision mirror, however, i can only see one black line, and my passenger side rear tyre is wearing significantly more than the drivers side. Im wondering if my diff is worn and is now single spinning. Or is it that my weight on the drivers side is enough to keep the drivers side from spinning? Is there any simple way of checking weather my diff is worn? Also, what are my options for freshening the diff up? Can they be reco'd fairly cheaply? This is an area that i know little about. Its an R32 gtst R200. Oh, and please no comments about hooliganism. Im sensible about it and do it when no one is around. Thanks, Shaun.

I pulled mine off today and sent it to Qld. I couldnt be bothered searching high and low for a new one, so i just decided to get mine reco'd. At least it'll end up with a stainless steel bore!

I just spoke to Wally at Master cylinder exchange, Wynnum (QLD), and he said that he's got my master cylinder on the shelf, and that it would be $220 exchange. This is the place that all the people in my area send the master cylinders to for reconditioning, so i just figured that i'd cut out the middle man, as none of them would give me a concrete price. They all say between $250 and $450 and i didnt want to pay the latter. His details are: Master Cylinder Exchange, Wynnum 2/112 Glenora Street, Wynnum, QLD 4178 Phone: (07) 3393 3188

Yeah, i just discovered that they quoted me on a CLUTCH master cylinder, dammit. Thought i was onto something there! The part number for the 15/16 brake master cylinder is: 46010-02U20 and the 1 inch is: 46010-04U20; maybe that will help someone, but im just going to get mine rebuilt. Shaun.

Dammit, i hope this doesnt become a regular occurrance!

Well, maybe i shouldnt have said 'modified'. I bought a single plate nismo clutch that had worn out, sent it to Jim, and it came back all new and shiney. He increased the clamping force i know that, but as for the rest of it, im not sure. It certainly doesnt feel like standard pedal pressure though!

It would be interesting to hear what Jim says about this incident. I actually bought a Nismo clutch and he modified it to suit my application, so hopefully i dont suffer the same fate. Im really sorry to hear about this though. Ive sufferred engine failures due to things that werent my fault and it sucks.

How do i get this FAST program? Does it cost a lot of money or do you have to be a Nissan employee or something?

Hi, Im hoping that you can help me find the part number for my brake master cylinder. The details are below: CAR: 1993 R32 gts-t M-Spec with ABS CHASSIS #: HCR32-292253 MODEL #: KRCR32RGFS3 FA It appears to be different from most other R32's because apparently mine is a very late model R32 and it recieved a brake upgrade. I think the master cylinder has a 1 inch bore rather than a 15/16 inch bore like most of the others. The master cylinder has BM-50 on the side of it if that helps. Thanks for any help, Shaun.

Shit! I spoke to Jim about this when ordering my single plate clutch. He told me that the standard flywheel would be fine but i think ill change to a steel item next time i pull the gearbox. Looking forward to pics of the clutch housing.

Yeah, i think my master cylinder is the same as a GTR one because its got a 1 inch bore (the number 1 is stamped on the side of it). Most other R32's seem to have a 15/16" bore in them. Mine is a 1993 M-Spec and has ABS if it makes any difference. It also has BM-50 on the side of it. Can anyone help me with a Nissan part number for it? I can get one delivered from Japan (RHD Japan) for US$150 which is pretty good, but they need a part number. Also, that rebuild for $100 must only be the seal kit and labour required to replace the seals. Everyone ive spoken to says that if the master cylinder bore is pitted and needs to be rebored (and have a stainless sleeve installed), it costs at least $150 just for the rebore. The cheapest ive been quoted is $240 for everything. If anyone knows otherwise, let me know. Shaun.

Does it have BM-50 on the side and does it have two outlets? How much do you want for it? RHD Japan just emailed me; US$150 delivered for a new one. Thats pretty good considering Nissan Australia want about $420. Thanks, Shaun.

All that info is on the ATI site i think. Im pretty sure they recommend every 10 years for street use.

Yeah, thats what ill probably do. I was just wondering if there was an upgrade i could do at the same time, but i discovered that ive got a 1 inch bore master cylinder which is pretty good for a gtst. BM-50 is the code on the side for interests sake. Its the latest model r32 gtst which must have recieved an upgrade because the others are 15/16" i think. Shaun.

Why dont you just ring Whiteline direct? (02) 96030111

Thanks mate, There's a lot of polishing there; once you polish one thing, you've gotta polish the next! Ill definately pull my engine out again next year and paint the engine bay. I like yours because you cant really see all the wires and lines running everywhere. Thats what im going to concentrate on most; hiding alot of the wires. Shaun.

Hi, My brake master cylinder is leaking slightly, and i was just wondering what my options are rather than buying an OEM master cylinder. Nissan quoted me about $420 ex Japan. Are there any aftermarket manufacturers of these that people are aware of? Also, is it possible to have the cylinder reconditioned? Also, is it possible to upgrade the master cylinder instead of buying a direct replacement? I mean, can you get a larger diameter bore that will reduce braking effort or something? Its a 1993 R32 gtst M spec. Thanks, Shaun.

So did you remove everything from the engine bay including the brake booster and brake lines, then just cover up the steering rack etc during painting. Also, did you just sand back the original paint for preparation. Im looking at doing this next year. Shaun.

I'd give my left nut to have a nice freshly painted white engine bay. Mine engine bay paint has gone all chalky.

Yeah, its not as easy as just swapping over sensors. I havent had first hand experience with it, but a mate has had problems with this before. Cant you just swap over the internals?? Shaun.

Which way did you move the nut to get greater movement of the clutch? Towards the front of the car or towards the rear? Im pretty sure you move it towards the front; just checking. Shaun.

Ok, i got under there tonight and the pedal box is ok, ie; there are no cracks in the welds or anything like that. I could see where you adjust the clutch on that threaded shaft, but there was no way i could have loosened the nut on the shaft without taking the master cylinder off the firewall. I took the pin out and disconnected the shaft from the clutch pedal, but couldnt get to that nut. Pisses me off. Also, ive got a squeak when i apply the clutch pedal; its coming from inside the bell housing. Im not really sure what to do. Shaun.

I dunno, ive been too scared to look at the speedo when its at WOT yet! Its a waste of time in first and second, and even in third ive got to feather the throttle, but when it does get traction its pretty amazing. Almost 600Nm of torque is the best bit. Ive only just had it tuned, so ill get used to it, but its pretty different to the RB20. Ill have to hook up staggered boost control for each gear i think. Shaun.

I posted earlier on, but ive made a few changes since then; new radiator and powder coated some brackets etc. I wish i painted the engine bay now! Shaun.