Shaun

Hi, As stated, i need a starting point for my R32 gtst in regards to camber and toe setup etc. Ive just installed the whiteline group buy kit with adjustable camber, and dont really want to rely on my local Pedders to set the car up, as they have limited experience with skylines. Also, my car has 350rwkw, so i really want to avoid traction issues with the set up. The search is broken at the moment, and i was sure the info was in the whiteline group buy thread, but i cant find it. Can anyone with experience point me in the right direction, so that i can tell the guys at Pedders what i want. Obviously i have little expereince when it comes to suspension and handling, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Shaun.

Yeah, im keen for those prices. I'd like some instructions on how to do it though. Shaun.

Im almost positive that theyre 17mm across flats. Not that that really helps though. I dont understand what your trying to do. Lock the crank to the engine stand? Are you trying the get the harmonic balancer off? Shaun.

Yeah, i removed all the vanes in the rear of my pump and it works ok. The other thing you can do is just use the rear part of the pump to circulate the fluid around to the front of the car so that the fluid will cool down. Because if you remove all the hicas gear, you remove the factory piece of pipe that is used to cool the oil. Depends what your using the car for i suppose.

I moved the standard reservoir down beside the radiator and just changed the hoses. Thats the easy bit, as ive had heaps of issues with the power steering pump/bracket and offset of the pulley in relation to the harmonic balancer. I ended up having to get the bracket machined in a mill to elongate the mounting holes so i could slide the whole assembly back and forth to get the right offset. If i were you, i wouldnt change the ps pump, because as far as i know, theyre all different. Just move the reservoir (you can see mine in the bottom right of the pic). I ran into these problems because im using RB20 ps stuff with the RB26 engine. Shaun. EDIT: I think the changes to the forums arent allowing me to upload pics. You can see where my PS reservoir is in my avatar above.

Yeah, its definately fiddly to get the offset correct. I just threw my first power steering belt yesterday; first problem ive had with that. I put a straight edge on the PS pulley and balancer, and found that it was slightly out, so i fixed it up, went for a long drive and it was ok. Its good being able to slide the whole pump and bracket assembly back and forth to get the offset right. As long as the straight edge contacts all four sides of both pulleys, it should be spot on. Shaun.

^^^^^^+ 1 for above. Im assuming these arent legal for a road car? Are there any safety concerns? Im pretty interested though. Shaun

Id be interested to know a ballpark price for the line locker and instructions. Ive looked at one of these, but found that i needed two units because something about the brake lines crossing over as a safety feature. I didnt explain that very well, but maybe you'll know what i mean. Shaun.

Ill post some pics for you to see where the key is. You should put the engine at top dead centre before you begin. When the engine is at TDC, the key will be facing up. Its important to check the key and replace if damaged. For only $2.20 its worth it. In regards to the PS pump, im using a different model pump, so i had problems with the offset of the pulleys. I therefore, had to modify the PS pump bracket, which meant getting a machine guy to elongate the mounting holes in a mill. This way i could slide the bracket back and forth and get the correct offset. Its been going fine for ages now, so it does work. The assembly grease is in the third picture. I had trouble finding it too, but eventually came across it at Repco. I was recommended to definately use Moly grease.

I reckon it looks shithouse.

Thanks for your persistance in getting these things over here Johno. At the end of the day it was an awesome price. I installed mine yesterday without any dramas. Actually, i had to drive to Hornsby Nissan to get a replacement crank key; 3 hour round trip for a $2.20 part, but i wouldnt cut corners with these parts. As mentioned earlier, the seperate pulley is the power steering pulley and must be fitted prior to installation. You'll all need a 12 point 1/4" socket to torque up the bolts to 10ft/lbs (which isnt much at all) and use blue locktite in the process. The ATI balancer is actually slightly smaller in diameter than the OEM one. I torqued the crank bolt to 280Nm (which is the limit of my torque wrench) and then used an extension to add a bit more. I reckon it was about 350Nm in the end and it didnt feel as though anything was going to let go at all. I just used a moly based assembly lube on the bolt and washer. Hope it doesnt let go! Thanks again Johno, Shaun.

Yay, thanks Johno! Ill see you tomorrow; hopefully im not too busy at work tonight, so i can leave early. Shaun.

Hey mate, to upload pics, hit reply, then go to browse in the bottom right corner of the page. After finding you pics, double click on them then hit upload. It might take a while depending on the size of the files. Hope that helps. Shaun.

Hey Johno, Did you end up getting these on Friday, or do you think you'll get em on Monday? Cheers, Shaun.

I just bolted my r32 gtst engine mounts to the rb26 block and used them. I didnt have any clearance problems with an oil filter (although mine is remote mounted). I did, however, shave a bit of the alloy sump off to clear the cross member on the inlet side. It would have cleared it by about 1mm anyway, but i just wanter more clearance than that. Shaun.

Ive always used NGK IRIWAY 7 plugs in my modified engines. My tuner wont tune with anything else. Not sure why. They'd want to be good for $120! (not each). Having said that, ive never had a problem with my stock ignition.

Great! Im keen to get my car back on the road. Im having trouble finding a power steering belt thats 10mm shorter though. The original is a 4PK945 (meaning four grooves and 945mm in length), but the next shortest is 925mm. There'd probably be enough adjustment in the bracket to accomodate though. Shaun.

^^^^^+1 for above^^^^^ Hopefully get them this week. What do you think Johno? Did the supplier give you any tracking info or any indication of how long shipping would take? Thanks mate, Shaun.

Hey mate, how did you go with the magnaflow mufflers on your exhaust? Interested in doing similar. Shaun.

Just an update; Looks like im going to go the custom made route, with either magnaflow mufflers (if theyre available in the appropriate sizes) or custom made mufflers. The centre muffler will be the biggest offset/centre oval design i can fit, and the rear will be an oval also. Ill get the mufflers in stainless and the pipe in mild steel. It'll be 3.5 inch all the way. Ill probably sell my Trust TR Drag cat back exhaust. Ill keep those who care posted, as i know there are a few people out there with over 350kw who want a quiet and non restrictive exhaust. Hopefully ill achieve my goal. Shaun.

Honestly mate, figure out how much it costs, then triple it. Its always the way. I did an rb26 conversion in my r32 gtst and although it seems simple, there were still a few problems. Mainly with the power steering. I did a single turbo conversion tho. If you are not too attached to your car, id seriously think about selling it and put the money into a gtr. Try to capitalise on someones elses loss. Shaun.

Thanks for your help and persistance Johno. Thats good news. Regarding the other issue; ive had no luck as yet and have contacted those that should be able to help, but have had no reply. Shaun.

Hey Anthony, Have you had any drag racing experience previously, as im kinda in the same boat (same power, RWD) but havent raced on the strip yet. So im kind of expecting to be terrible the first few times! Also, did you have to worry about wheel spin with the drag radials, or did they just hook up and away you went? Shaun.

I believe R33 and R34 power steering pumps have the same offset in regards to harmonic balancers lining up with them. Not sure about the mounting points on the block and head though.

Yeah, i agree that i should put it in a relatively standard location, i just wasnt sure where the standard gauge temp was taken from. I assumed it was one of the top sensors on the engine side of the radiator hose, i just wasnt sure. I dont want to use one of those adaptors shown in the picture, as i think they look shitty. Thats why im making up a weld on, and ill put it on the 'goose neck' thingy before the top radiator hose. I feel like even more of an idiot after Duncan mentioned that the sensor at the bottom of the radiator was for the air conditioning! I had the sealing surface of that port machined and used a dowty seal because it looked dodgy on my china brand radiator. I could have just welded the thing up because i dont even have air conditioning! Ill go now. Shaun.