Shaun

Hi John, PM sent regarding Pirellis or Michelins in 255x40x17. I need two only. Thanks, Shaun.

Ive also got a noise like that (R32 gtst); it sounds like a solenoid clicking on and off. But i reckon its coming from my brakes or drive shaft on the drivers side. When i jack the car up and its in gear, i can turn the rear wheel a few degrees and kinda replicate the noise. I was thinking that it might be something inside the rear drum (handbrake) assembly. Either that or a worn rear drive shaft. It pisses me of intermittantly, then i forget about it. Shaun.

Found prices for the camber and sub frame alignment kits. Im still wondering what the subframe kit consists of and whether i can fit it myself. Also, if im aiming for a height of around 335 - 340mm at the rear, will i need a rear camber kit or is there enough adjustment to get between -0.5 and +0.5 in the standard set up. Thats if there is any rear camber adjustment in the standard set up; i dont know yet. Any help is appreciated; i need to get this set up and no-one around here knows shit about skylines. Shaun.

Thanks for your relpy Gary. Ill keep the springs in then. My next move was to fix up the rear camber, as you suggest. Ive been told that the skylines do have rear camber adjustment as standard, so does that mean i dont have to purchase a camber kit? Also, do you sell the rear subframe alignment kit through your group buy? What does it include and how much is it? Ill adjust the heaight in the next few days. I just wasnt sure if it was bad to have the springs under different loads on the car, but i suspect that 8mm wouldnt be significant. Thanks again, Shaun.

The standard harmonic balancers are over $500 from Nissan anyway; so as you say, better to upgrade for less cost. From what Ross Tuffbond have told me, the only difference between the different models of balancer is that the power steering drive on the R33/R34 item is further out than the R32 one. So it depends on which power steering set up your using. On another topic, are all you guys going to install the balancers yourselves? I'll put mine in, but im a bit concerned about correct installation and the correct torque of the massive bolt that goes in the crank snout. From what ive heard, the correct torque of the RB26 crank bolt is significantly more (like 50% more) than that of the RB20 and RB25. I cant see any reason for this? Has anyone with experience got any hints on how to undo the bolt in the first place or advice on what to watch out for when installing the balancer on an engine in the car? Thanks, Shaun.

Do you have a single or twin turbo chargers? Its just that the exhaust note is louder with a large single, so i want to know if it'll suit my car. What diameter is the trust PE II? Shaun.

Yeah, i think theyre 3/8 in diameter or something like that. They couldnt be in a better place really. Silly to run braid or any other solid line under the car if these are unused. Shaun.

No, sorry i dont have any pics. I just bought some mild steel 'weld ons' from Earls and had them welded onto the ends of the HICAS lines (i think i also had some silver soldered). Obviously youve gotta clean the lines well before hand. Also, you can get two types of weld on; one with a round outer edge, and one with a hexagonal outer edge like that found on a nut or bolt. I recommend getting the latter, so that you can reduce the torque (with a shifter) placed on the weld when tightening the fitting to it. Shaun.

What do you mean by a 'block off'? I dont see the problem with changing fuel filters and then just priming the system when done. Maybe mine is different, but when i turn my ignition on, the fuel pump fires up, primes the lines, and then i turn the engine on. Ohhhh, hang on............. is this so that when you take the fuel filter out, you dont lose all the fuel from the surge tank because its higher than the filter youre replacing?? I think i get what your saying now. Ive always just used thes rubber 'bungs' from clark rubber to stop the fuel leaking. Its probably a bit easier for me though because ive got hard lines under the car.

Yeah, i didnt really go into it that much when i was doing the fuel system. It was a pain in the arse assembling it all, priming the fuel system, then having the smallest little spray of fuel go all over my polished engine! Its all done now though. No leaks. Shaun.

This is the only pic ive got. Thought i had more. Shaun.

Yeah i knew. I'd much rather have a 'weld on' welded on though, just for piece of mind. I did, however, have a few problems with one weld that had a few pin holes in it. It required re welding. Shaun.

Banjos are good for restricted spaces too. Just make sure you replace the copper washers after re-use. Actually, you dont have to replace them if you anneal them. Heat them up to red hot (using a torch or even BBQ flame), then cool them down by quenching or letting them self cool (it doesnt matter). This re softens the copper and theyre as good as new! Shaun.

Yep, i blocked the rear feed off, and returned the water at the front. You can see it in the photo; heaps better and not a nightmare to fix leaks etc. I dont know what i was thinking running it around the back. Shaun.

Ill post some pics when i get home from work, but just thought id mention that i used my HICAS lines as fuel lines under the car. Once the rear steering is disconnected, theyre redundant, so why not use em as fuel lines. Theyre the perfect size! Just have some weld ons attached and away you go. Ive got a walbro in tank lift pump, 2lt surge tank, Bosch 044 in line (under the car), and all done with Earls teflon lined braid. The teflon is a bit more expensive, but doesnt smell, ever. Its a must in my opinion. Shaun.

Thanks mate. Ill measure from the ground to the guard on either side to see if theyre the same. Probably should have done this before, but the car is mint, so i cant see it being out by that much. Can anyone confirm these spring rates? Shaun.

Thats why you cover the braided lines in flame guard sleeving, to keep the heat away. Just use Earls fittings (including their banjo bolts for oil and water on the block), and you'll have trouble free use. Just be sensible when routing the lines, ie; leave an air gap between the line and heat sources. Every drag/circut/rally racer cant be wrong about these fittings. Dont bother with hard lines; their lack of flex and/or vibration resistance would worry me. Shaun.

Yeah, sorry. The measurement was taken from the centre of the wheel to the arch. My guards are even. Shaun.

Im pretty interested in this too. Anyone know the diff?

Hi, Im just wondering if any of you know what the spring rates of standard R32 gtst M spec springs are. Also, does anyone know what the rates of the Whiteline springs in Sydneykids group buy are for the same car? Im having traction issues, and was wondering if it would be beneficial to replace the rear Whiteline springs with standard springs, so that the car squats a bit more. Gary suggests that rear springs of no more than 3kg/mm are suitable for 'tractionally challenged' rear wheel drive set ups, but i have no idea what the rates are (and SK's inbox is full). Busy man i suspect. Thanks for any help. Shaun. PS: While im here, ill throw this one at those who care. My car sits about 8mm higher on the passenger side than the divers side front and rear. Its always done this, but i installed the whiteline kit yesterday, and its still doing it. Previously i had whiteline springs on standard shocks and sway bars, but yesterday i installed the bilsteins and bars to go with the springs i already had. Im just wondering if i should worry about this and even change the height of the drivers side (bring it up one circlip groove), or just leave it alone. Thanks, Shaun.

Hi Gary, I know you're busy, but your inbox is full. I just had a few important things i wanted to send you via PM. Thanks, Shaun.

^^^^Thats a great looking exhaust!! Exactly what im after. Its interesting to see that the centre muffler is not offset either. I wonder if there is a 'U' shape in the middle. So you bought the car with the exhaust on it, or did they make it for you? Theyre super pricey from what ive heard, but they work. Shaun.

Yeah, Id love to see it. Apparently racepace are very good at designing high flowing and quiet exhausts. Pity im in Sydney. Is it quiet? Is it on a single turbo? PS: Its difficult to compare the level of exhaust noise between different cars with different turbo set ups. For example, my RB26 with single turbo and 1.06ar turbine housing will always be louder than a twin turbo RB26 because the turbos act as mufflers themselves. Shaun.

Mine does the same. Where is the sunload sensor?? Apparently there is also a sensor in front of the radiator. Shaun.

^^^^ Exactly! I cant understand why so many people are opting for the larger (significantly heavier) balancer. Extra rotational mass is not a good thing and is overkill for many applications. Your choices, but its just a thought. Shaun. Also, as the ati balancer is already balanced, it wont affect the balance of a freshly balanced rotational assembly. How many times can i say balance in one sentence!