Shaun

Hey, why not get some mild steel 'weld ons' welded onto the breather attachments. This i what i did, then i got them chromed in Hamilton. I think i used -14 round base weld ons. They'd also look good painted. Save a few hundred; just a thought. PS: Nice paint Shaun.

Hi, As the topic states, i need to know the capacity of an RB25 GTST gearbox. I was told to fill it with Repsol 75/90 fully synthetic oil by my gearbox guy. Ive already put 3 litres of oil and 250ml of Nulon friction reducer stuff into the box. I thought the capacity was 2.8 litres. Hope im not filling up something else, lol. Shaun.

Yeah, i know what you mean. I was actually a bit more concerned about a circlip working its way off a groove that i fabricated. The one that broke in my car didnt move at all. The shaft actually snapped inside the sender assembly. Too late now anyway; i put the box back in today. Shaun.

^^^I dont understand what that means at all! Anyway, i did the mod last night and put the sender with the new gear into the box in the new position (180 degrees rotated). When i turn the main shaft in the gearbox, the speedo sender rotates, so i can only assume it worked ok. Fingers crossed. The tutorial from Cubes was soooo handy; thanks mate. I didnt bother about using a circlip on the end of the shaft though. It was an extremely tight tolerance fit, so i dont think it will work its way off. What do you guys reckon? Shaun.

Oh, i forgot to ask. Can you do the HICAS diagnostic test without the standard ECU in the car? Shaun.

Yeah, im out of ideas as to what the problem is in my car. It pisses me off though. My car has been off the road for about 4 years while ive been doing major mods; should be getting tuned next week though, so ill be looking for a fix then. Ive just driven it off boost (and unregistered) in my street last week, and noticed the heavy steering after a few minutes of driving. If i knew id have these problems, i dont think i would have disconnected it. Shaun.

Im an idiot; i meant hydraulic. Yeah, i removed the rear impellers, but i should have looped the rear back into the reservoir via the piece of pipe that runs in front of the radiator that acts as a cooler. I dont think it wold make a huge difference though. The hicas computer is still plugged in. The stering wheel boss is a hicas one and was working ok for several years before i removed the hicas. I suppose it could have broken though. The problem is, i removed the hicas hardware and installed a lock bar when i was doing major mods which included an engine swap with aftermarket computer etc, so its hard to pinpoint a possible cause. When i finally got the car on the road after the engine/gearbox/computer conversion, the steering was heavy. Are there any other sensors that would affect the steering if broken? Oh, my hicas light is always on. Can you just cut a wire (green?) on the hicas computer to get rid of the light? Shaun.

I just replied in the other thread. Yeah my speedo worked for a while, but the shaft on the sender just snapped (as outlined in the other thread). I understand that you need a speed input from behind the dash, so i did the navara modification thinking i'd found my fix. Unfortunately, while the speedo worked, my steering still didnt. What about the solinoid at the rear of the car. I removed that and just left an electrical connection hanging there. Is that ok? Thats the only electrical thing i removed; everything else was pneumatic. Shaun.

No, No, it only just stopped working. The sender must have only just snapped. The speedo worked ok but i still had no power steering. Shaun.

No i didnt. Why do you do this? Is it so that the larger gear doesnt push as hard on the gear in the box? I can only assume that the shaft snapped because there was too much lateral force on it. Or it was wabbling around in there. I suppose another alternative is to just use the Navara gear and have the speedo recalibrated (or live with it). Thanks, Shaun.

What do you mean by reset the ECU? The HICAS computer or the one behind the kick panel? The reason i ask is because i have removed all the HICAS gear (i mean everything from under the car and in the engine bay, and the inpellers from the rear of the power steering pump), and i still have heavy steering. It'll drive ok for 5 mins as you said, then the heavy steering kicks in. Ive also got an aftermarket computer, so i cant reset the ECU if thats the one you meant. Its not my steering wheel either. Its pissing me off. Shaun.

Hey, i posted a question last week about my geabox getting stuck in reverse. The cause of it was that the speedo sender shaft actually snapped and left the nylon gear (and half the shaft) in the gearbox. Ive got an R33 box in an R32 and have done the Navara sender and standard r33 gear swap. My question is: How do i ensure that this doesnt happen again? When i installed the navara sender originally, i didnt notice that the shaft was off centre. Has this got something to do with it. Do i have to rotate the sender in the gearbox to a particular position? I ordered the navara sender for $50 and the R33 nylon gear for $60 from Hornsby Nissan today. Thanks, Shaun.

I got a custom (two piece i think) tail shaft made up for about $700 from memory. They said it was good for 1000hp. I looked everywhere for someone to modify my standard shaft with the r33 yoke (r33 box in r32), but everyone said it would be a pain in the arse and that the standard uni's would be f**ked and are irreplacable anyway. Im sure a standard shaft in good nick would handle that sort of power though. Shaun.

Whats wrong with metalcat? I thought they were stamped and came with a certificate of certification (if that makes sense). I was gonna get one next week; i think i might have to get an emissions test so i want one that is pretty f**king good. Shaun.

Hey, are your covers and plenum polished or chromed/HPC coated? They look really good. I spent about 100 hours polishing mine, but i think they'll be a bitch to maintain. Shaun.

Oh, ok. Maybe i did get the r33 slave cylinder then. Yeah, i got a custom 2 piece tail shaft that would easily handle my targeted power for $650 or $700. Shaun.

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I found that when i tried to mix and match tail shaft components, it couldnt be done. I just went and got a custom tail shaft made up. I also had to modify the gearbox cross member so that the standard holes in the body of the 32 could accommodate the 33 gearbox. Im using all standard r32 equipment, just with an r33 box. I didnt know about the slave cylinder thing; why doesnt the r32 one work with the 33 box? Do the speedo conversion now, otherwise you wont get a speed signal and you'll lose your power steering. I just had to take my gearbox out because it got stuck in reverse. It ended up being the nylon gear on the end of the speedo drive falling off and lodging somewhere in the gearbox. Im not sure how that happened, so make sure you do it right. Shaun.

Built Rb26 with Gt35 turbo in an R32 gtst. Using standard R33 gtst gearbox with Jim Berry modified Nismo clutch. Not sure how much power because it hasnt been tuned yet. Hoping for 330 rwkw or something like that; i dont care, as long as its reliable!

Actually, these are the same price at $250 + $30 postage. Im sure Autobarn would charge that for postage if they went to the trouble; which they dont in my experience.

Im really interested in this thing, but in regards to mounting the unit, can you mount it upside down Ie; under the parcel shelf? Bit stuck for room under the bonnet and dash. Any other ideas on where to mount it from those who have installed it? Thanks, Shaun.

I cant return it as ive had it for two years; even though its had very little use (less than 200kms). I hate pulling gearboxes out!

Gday, Ive got an r33 gtst gearbox behind an rb26 engine in an r32 gtst shell. The car has been on stands for about a year and a half (with oil in the gearbox) while the engine was being built, but i put the engine in the other day, started it up for the first time and took the car for a spin very slowly around my street (due to untuned state). The gearbox felt normal and ive never had any problems with it. Its a low kms one from an importer. As im reversing the car out of the garage ready to be towed to sydney for tuning, the gear stick gets stuck in reverse and will not budge. From the position of the gearstick, it doesnt look like its in reverse (its kinda half way between reverse and neutral). There were no sudden noises or anything, it just got stuck. Ive tried rollong the car back and forth etc to no avail. Anyone with any ideas? I dont know much about gearboxes! Thanks, Shaun.

I just started a brand new engine (with forged internals etc), and at idle when cold the oil pressure is about 6.5kg/cm3, and drops to just under 4 when hot. Ive only idled it around the local street because its untuned though. The oil temp doesnt go above 80 degrees when hot, with a large oil cooler. Both gauges are greddy expensive ones. Shaun.

Fatz, Your inbox is full! Shaun.