Shaun

^^^^^Thats exactly right^^^^^^ I want to have the ability to make my car legal with minium fuss. Thanks for the exhaust offer, ill keep it in mind. Now, ive just gotta figure out how to make a Tial BOV plumb back into the inlet............... Shaun.

No worries, thanks. Where abouts are you? I rang a few people about the exhaust thing today, and some places will hire them to you for the test. Another bloke said for $100 he'll just say there was a standard exhaust on my car and pass it. I think i might try to modify my trust exhaust first though. Some places put a solid flange in the exhaust, but drill heaps of 10mm holes in the solid flange, significantly reducing noise. And i can also plumb my external WG in just before the cat, so that if i want to go to the 'track', i can remove the cat and vent the gate to atmo. The metal cat is unflanged. Just jap sell the Catco 3.5" for about $440, although he said he'll do it for $400. I think Catco do a 4" as well. Shaun.

My exhaust came with a 'racing pipe', so ive got that on at the moment. I just PM'd the guy who was doing the Metal cat groupbuy, and he said he'll check to see if he can get any others. $300 delivered for a 3.5 inch is pretty good, and im sure theyre the full deal. On ebay, the same ones are $370 delivered. Im either going to try to make my 4 inch exhaust quiet (with removable modifications), or just buy a standard exhaust. Anyone want to sell a standard r32 exhaust?? Shaun.

Gday, Just wondering if you can get any more of these cats. If not, do you know where i could source one from? Thanks, Shaun.

Thanks mate, Ill ring him today. Ive spoken to a few engineers and blue slip places about my situation (Nathan at The Throttle Shop @ West Gosford was really helpful), and they all seem to say that if you can keep the fact that you have an aftermarket computer quiet, you'll avoid going for an emissions test. This is where you really get f**ked over (except Guilt toy - well done) and waiting times are about 2 months for the test. One engineer said about one modified car in one thousand passes! So well done to you, but i think i'll try to avoid it! Shaun. PS. Ill definately need a cat though. Ive got a Trust 4inch exhaust, and im after a similar sized cat. Any ideas on where to get one? Im not sure if ill pass the noise test with my exhaust, but it came with one of those silencers that you can bolt in the tip. Do you know if they'll allow this? Thanks again, Shaun.

I didnt even see that table.

Its been out of rego for about 3 years. I suppose i would have run into problems when i had to renew the rego without an engine in the car anyway. Sorry, but i cant find Lakesides number on the RTA website or the yellow pages. I just discovered that i did hook up a small charcoal cannister, but i relocated it inside the guard; i remember now. I cant understand why it matters whether the turbo is high or low for emissions, but they're the rules i suppose. Ive also got a battery in a fabricated box in the boot. I wonder if that'll matter. Shaun.

Thanks, Is it definately Lakeside at Wyong. I can only find lakedge Motors at Tumbi Umbi?? Ive been ringing around, and everyone says it was a massive mistake to let it go out of rego, but if i can convince the engineer that it still has a standard computer, i can get out of emissions testing and just worry about the engineers certificates for the other modifications (an engineer told me that). Ill post up some pics of the engine bay, but the charcoal cannister is definately gone; not to say i cant hook it back up again though. What does it do exactly?? I was thinking of fabricating a shroud to go over the 3 inch inlet pipe from the air filter. Also, the RTA website says you can get 28 day permits to drive an unregistered vehicle for the purposes of registration. It costs you though.

Holy shit! So before i can even get the car registered, i have to pass an emissions test? How do i get the car to Botany or Penrith? Tow it?? Didnt you say that you had your pod filter in the front bar? Thats where mine is too; theres no way i can fit the standard air box. I dont even know where my charcoal cannister is or how it is hooked up. I guess its no biggie to plumb the catch can into the inlet. I dont have aftermarket cams. My injectors are Sard 700cc, i think they only have one hole but its been a while. Looks like ill have a massive job ahead of me. Did you end up using Lakeside for your engineering requirements? Thanks, Shaun.

Its great to hear that you passed both tests! Im starting to freak out a bit because my car (R32 gtst with a GTR engine) is almost ready for blue slipping and rego. Ive got an Autronic SM4, high mount Gt35, 700cc's external gate etc etc, and i really want to carry around the engineers certificates so that if i get pulled over i have something to argue with. If you do decide to carry out emissions sensitive dyno tunes, i'd definately be interested. I'd also be interested to know which Engineer you used, as i live on the Central Coast which is obviously nearby. Shaun. PS: Does blue slipping in NSW have anything to do with emissions, or is it just an indepth pink slip (ie, safety issues)?

Ok, i get what you mean. Ill definately see whether my turbo core is higher than my radiator cap. If so, ill install a breather tank. I dont think it'll be quite as elaborate as the pic above though. Bit of money in those earls fittings! Shaun.

I dont get what you mean. Are you saying to return the water into the breather tank?? There is already a nipple on the front of the engine to return the hot water to the radiator (on the RB256 anyway). I just liked the idea because you wouldnt really see the water return line if it went straight into the radiator. Its just an aesthetic thing i think. Shaun.

No worries Byron, thanks for that. I still might change it though just so its spot on. I like discopotato's idea of returning it straight into the top tank of an aluminium radiator. Pity i dont have one. Shaun.

Mine let go on #6. Im trying to ensure it doesnt happen again.

Yeah, well ive blocked up the water pipe on the pront of the engine and used the other two sources of coolant, but apparently this is not ideal. Its easy to change, but i just need some confirmation from those who know more than me. Also, i think maybe its not a good idea to use the big Jap teams as a comparison because i think they'd probably be more inclined to have a dedicated return straight to the radiator or something like that. When i did mine, i saw that many of these cars had blocked off the front return and assumed that they used the other two sources. Maybe that was wrong. Shaun.

Ok, so its been confirmed that the hot water exits the engine via the top radiator hose, and cool water enters the engine via the bottom hose and through the thermostat. So does this mean that the cool water (turbo feed) should be taken from the low point in the exhaust side of the block (near #6 piston), and the post turbo water should be returned into the top radiator hose via the nipple on the neck at the front of the engine? If so, thats fine and easy but makes me feel a bit stupid because i certainly chose the long way round. The only other thing is; what do i do about the feed at the back of the engine underneath the plenum. This is connected to the thermostat housing. Do i just block it off? Its been so long that i forget what it was there for in the standard set up. This is pretty important because im now thinking that if i was routing water incorrectly, it could have been a contributing factor in my engine failure because of increased thermal load etc. Shaun.

Hi, its a bit of an old topic i know, but can someone confirm for sure what way the water flows through an RB engine? If my car was going, id simply feel which radiator hose was hottest while running. It just relates to the best water feed for a single turbo conversion on an RB26 engine. There are 3 options - the front of the engine near the top radiator hose, the turbo side of the engine near number 6 piston, or just before the thermostat underneath the plenum. Any help would be appreciated, i know there are several forum members wanting to know for sure. Shaun.

I got a mobile pirtek van to come around to my place and do the water and oil lines for my rb20 (with low mount gt30). It cost roughly $220 in braid.

Well, i wouldnt say its been going fine; it blew a head gasket on the dyno resulting in a full rebuild (its a long story). Thats why its apart at the moment. But there were no overheating issues at all while it was going. I researched it thoroughly when i was pulling the twins off because i was unsure like you. When i first started it, i used an infared temp gauge on various parts of the head and block and found no massive temp fluctuations. As for a picture of the other side of the engine, i dont have one that shows it all assembled. There is an assembly of solid pipes under the plenum. I think there are two small ones (these are vacuum pipes) attached to one larger (water) pipe. The water pipe is connected from the thermostat part of the block to one of the heater hoses that goes around the back of the engine. Just before it connects to the heater hose, there is a junction that i cut off and attached a weld on to so i can use an Earls fitting. The picture below shows the general area of the connection. I do sometimes wonder, however, if it would have been better to bring the cooler water from the front of the engine (top rad' hose) to the turbo, and then run it around the back of the engine. I dont know if taking it from the block on the exhaust side is as effective. Id like to heat some experienced views. Shaun.

Here are some pics for those interested: It might look a bit cumbersome to some, but i wanted to leave a significant air gap between the lines and the (ceramic coated) manifold. Also, i had to silver solder a 'weld on' to the water pipe behind the plunum. Shaun. Also, i just went and read through my manual, and it said that the hot water flows into the bottom of the radiator. Also, the water temp sensor is on the top radiator hose, so this would suggest that this is cooler water.

I did mine a few years ago, so its hard to remember, but i definately blocked off the front water in/outlet and used the one out of the block and the one at the back of the plenum. Shaun.

Oh, i forgot to mention that my bonnet comes with a plug type thing that fits on the inside of the vent when its raining. The cost that i mentioned included the bonnet, gtr bonnet latch and the gtr grill. Shaun.

Ive got an East Bear FRP bonnet on my r32 gtst (with the gtr grille). I bought it because it was the only one i found that was subdued (sp?) and didnt look like that fast and furious shit. Its also extremely functional; when the car is stationary, you can feel the hot air being forced out the vent by the clutch fan. Ive not got twin thermos and its even better with them. The only negative is that it doesnt fit as well as id hoped (im extremely fastideous though), and the cost. It cost me $1700 unpainted, and im still trying to justify that! Overall though im pretty happy with it. Got it from that place on Silverwater Road in Sydney (i forget the name).

Ive got the same problem on my R32 gtst. Ive got the IC pipe with large BOV and air horns on the drivers side, and my pod filter in the passenger side space behind the front bar. Ive also got twin thermos in front of the radiator (between intercooler and radiator) so no space there. I was thinking ill mount it flat (core horizontal to the road) underneath the radiator and fabricate a shroud that will direct air flow from the front of the car through the core. The shroud will also protect the core from damage. Just an idea. Shaun.

I wonder why my car with the gt35 (0.82) made boost way too early then?? It was making 1 bar at 2000 rpm and was uncontrollable. Thats why i went the 1.06 housing. It'll be interesting to see how that goes. Shaun.