Shaun

Hey 2630GTS, just wondering, but do you think that a CR of 8.3 is a bit low if you only want to run 14.7 psi? I can understand that CR if you want to use really high boost, but off boost it might be a bit unresponsive. Im not having a go or anything; just wondering what your motivation is Shaun. Also, what was the standard CR of the VL and RB26 engine?

In regards to over boosting: The way i was looking at it (correct me if im wrong), was that if the engine is producing a given amount of gas and the waste gate is too small to pass it, it will create a back log of exhaust gas, thus creating an uncontrollable over boost situation. Also, do you think that my GT35 will be more responsive than Ashley was suggesting due to the higher comp ratio? Shaun.

I made a mistake fortunately. The gate is a 44mm tial item not a 38, so it shouldnt be too small. Im using the 1.06 turbine housing. There's a story behind that though. I had it tuned with the 0.86 housing but it saw boost by 2000rpm and was quite uncontrollable. I assumed that with the high compression ratio, the engine was creating too much gas for the smaller turbine housing to handle, thus boosting really early. If the gate is too small though, it would produce the same result at higher rpm. Surely the 44 wont be too small. I'd rather use a lower boost setting and have goo off boost response. Thanks, Shaun.

Gday, I got my RB26 back from the engine builders yesterday, and im in the process of assembling the manifolding on both sides. I had a look at the RB26 turbo upgrade sticky thread hoping to find similar setups, but found none. Does anyone have or, know someone with, a Garrett GT35 single turbo on a built RB26 engine? Any idea what power its making? For reference my engine has: GT35 Turbo 38mm Tial gate 4inch exhaust CP Pistons Prepped rods Standard cams 9.0:1 compression ratio Autronic SM4 700cc injectors Neon lights (that was a joke) All the usual oil control stuff and a fuel system that will support it. The car is rear wheel drive only. I just want to make 300 to 330 rwkw on a safe tune (cant affort another engine failure). Also, i wanted good off boost drivability, hence the 9:1 comp. Id be interested to hear peoples (informed) opinions on power output for this set up. Please, no negatives, as im still getting over the cost of this process and im feeling fragile. Thanks, Shaun.

Mate, Interested in the cat. Only if its 4 inch though. How old is it? Ill also need a measurement between the flanges. Photos would be good too. Shaun 0414972596

Im well aware of Earls' position in the marketplace, and as a motorsport supporter, i know that race teams use these (extremely expensive) fittings whenever a connection has to be made, but surely you'd agree that with an increase in the number of connections, the possibility of something going wrong (due to whatever reason) also increases. Whether it be failure due to incorrect installation etc etc. We're not all mechanics and mistakes will be made. Also, i dont know about you, but i have to consider the extra expense sometimes. Anyway, i think im splitting hairs and becoming too trivial. I was just trying to determine whether my car (a) needed a thermostat, (b) i wanted to spend the extra $165 for the unit plus about $150 on extra fittings, and © whether it was worth the added (minor) risk of something going wrong. Regarding the engine failure; i bought a gtr engine for $6500 about 4 years ago, installed it in my gtst with a remote oil filter. I unfortunately used the Speedflow push on fittings with the rubber hose on the advice of a place in Newcastle. The car was on the road for about half a day before one of the fittings to the remote filter popped off and all the oil was pumped onto the road. Im still kicking myself for not noticing, but needless to say, i spun two bearings. For that reason, ill always use Earls threaded fittings with braided hose, and a dedicated oil pressure gauge. Shaun.

Thanks mate. I agree with what you are saying, but before i start giving out names (even privately), id like to chat with them about it. Ill give them the opportunity to explain what happened, as i dont want to make any enemies. Im also reluctant because i know this guy is an extremely good tuner and had turned some great cars. Shaun.

Yeah, i just meant that an unbroken piece of hose will be more reliable than a piece of hose with a join in it. Does that make sense?? I had a bad experience with fittings once; cost me an engine. The fewer fittings the better i reckon. Having said that, i just had a look at the Earls catalogue, and ill definately be getting their thermostat. It looks the goods. Shaun.

Thanks for all the advice above. I was never really happy with the Venolia choice; finances controlled that choice unfortunately. Ive got CP pistons now and I believe they are better. Ive had nothing but bad luck with this build; businesses have failed half way through, my new engine failed on a highly respected tuners' dyno etc etc. I cant understand how this tuner missed detonation because it must have been huge; and they have turned out some awesome cars. Anyway, hopefully this will be the last time; its been a long time coming. Shaun.

So do you have a remote filter with your setup? I understand that the GTR runs coolant through the oil filter block in order to reach temp quicker, but would this work if you have a remote filter. Im also looking at getting an Earls core with braided lines etc. Just wondering about the thermostat. Is it just one extra thing to go wrong? Thanks, Shaun.

Gday, Im just after a bit of advice from people with experience in this area. My rebuilt RB26 blew a headgasket on a dyno, and on inspection of the bearings, it was apparent that detonation had occurred in most of the cylinders. (The crank had picked up bearing material, and several engine builders have remarked that only detonation could be the cause of this). Number 6 piston had discoloured slightly, and the headgasket let go around number 6 as well, so it had gotten pretty hot in there. I was hoping i could use the same Venolia pistons as they were only 4 hours old, but the engine builder has said that three of these pistons have "collapsed around the skirts" and that the piston to bore clearence is now too big. My questions are: - What does 'collapsed skirts mean'? I assume its contraction or warping of the skirts due to heat??? - What would cause the skirts to collapse? After the head gasket failure, there was also damage to the bore on number 6. I thought it was due to water corroding the freshly bored block, but i understand that this is rare. Im now wondering if something catastrophic happened on the dyno because this was the only occasion that the engine hit boost in its short life. Anyway, thanks for any input. At least there wont be a question mark over the used pistons in the rebuild. Shaun.

Yeah, its 20 thou over size and i had to have the head machined to within an inch of its life due to damage sustained in the last failure. Hence, gasket thickness is the thing that will vary my comp ratio this time. Is standard RB26 comp ratio 8.5:1 is it? I thought it was higher for some reason. Shaun.

Gday, im having my RB26 engine assembled at the moment, and im at the point of purchasing a head gasket. The engine builder recommended puchasing a 1.5mm gasket that will give me a compression ratio of about 8.5:1. I was, however, hoping to go a bit higher in order to maintain off boost drivability, but as im no engine builder, i should probably take his advice. Im just wondering what comp ratios people have in their built RB26's and what i should aim for. My engine has forged pistons, prepped rods, all the usual oil control stuff and a gt35/40 turbo with a 1.06 turbine housing. The car is a street car. The reason why im wondering is that previously the engine was built with a 1.0mm head gasket that gave me 9.0:1 compression, but boost was uncontrollable with a smaller turbine housing (0.86 i think). This resulted in detonation and head gasket failure on the dyno. I then went and bought the bigger turbine housing, but im now wondering if it'll be unresponsive off boost with the lower comp ratio. Thanks for any advice, Shaun.

I dunno, i havent taken it off yet. I can see how it would though; you'd have to store it in a clean place (it comes with a bag with a zipper), and you'd also have to make sure that the car is clean before you put it on again. Its not a problem for me though because my car isnt a daily driver.

I heard that the Earls oil coolers are excellent. Ill be getting one of those soon. shaun.

I actually ended up buying one on sale at Super Cheap for $149. Its for indoor use only (its made from polar fleece fabric which is really soft) and fits like a glove! Im really happy with it. The other indoor car covers are too expensive as all the ones i found are over $350. Shaun.

Gday, Just wondering if anyone out there has bought (or knows where to get) a good indoor car cover. By good, i mean one that is designed to suit the needs of a finatical car enthusiast. I dont need one that is for outdoor use, as it will be in my garage. Looking to spend under $200 if thats possible. And yes, i have tried Auto barn, Supercheap etc. I just cant seem to find info on them in Australia; they're all in the states. Thanks, Shaun.

I actually came across this guy on ebay and he said he could copy my R32 gtst ones. My car is off the road at the moment, so im going to send my standard lines down for him to copy. So he should be able to do r32 gtst lines after next week. Shaun.

Thanks Horn, sounds like the go. Ill do the same. Shaun.

Thanks for that. So does that mean that i can be defected for using Nismo braided lines on my car? I'd be more than happy to use them, its just that i dont want to be defected. Shaun.

Yeah, thanks for the advice, but im after a Magic Cat. Has anyone bought one recently? I dont know if they've gone bust, but they dont answer their phone.

Im interested in the head alone. Can you give me a price? Thanks, Shaun

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Hi, Im after a 4 inch catylitic converter, preferably without flanges, for the cheapest possible price. Is Magic Cat still around? Also, does it matter if its metal or ceramic substrate? Can metal cats flow more without restriction? Its for a car with about 300rwkw and a 4 inch exhaust. Thanks for any help/advice. Shaun.

Hi, im thinking of putting braided brake lines on my R32 gtst. Does anyone know if the Nismo ones have ADR approval (they're about $180 for front and rear on Greenline). Otherwise a guy on Ebay (Brakewest) does ADR approved front and rear GTR ones for $250. Does anyone know if GTR lines would fit up to a gtst without modification? Just jap do HPI ones for $350 which i thought was a bit exxy. Also, ill get a master cylinder stopper thing off Greenline as well; theyre about $108 + postage i think. Any advice or info would be appreciated. Thanks, Shaun.