Shaun

Hey mate, Do you still have the diff for sale? If so let me know. I need the crown wheel and pinion out of it, but am willing to buy the complete unit. Where are you located? Thanks Shaun 0414972596

Hey mate, Do you still have the diff for sale? If so let me know. I need the crown wheel and pinion out of it, but am willing to buy the complete unit. Where are you located? Thanks Shaun 0414972596

Hey mate, Do you still have the diff for sale? If so let me know. I need the crown wheel and pinion out of it, but am willing to buy the complete unit. Where are you located? Thanks Shaun 0414972596

Hey mate, Do you still have the diff for sale? If so let me know. I need the crown wheel and pinion out of it, but am willing to buy the complete unit. Where are you located? Thanks Shaun 0414972596

Hey mate, Do you still have the S13 diff? Specifically, i need the crown wheel and pinion out of it. Let me know, Shaun 0414972596

Sorry to post in here but i need this item pretty badly. As stated, i need the crown wheel and pinion out of an R33 gtst (4.11) or S13 (4.08) diff. Im prepared to buy the whole diff, but dont want to spend a fortune, as i only need these parts but can understand someone not wanting to seperate them. Even if you dont have one, but know someone who has, please let me know as i need them pretty bad. Thanks, Shaun 0414972596

Hi, As stated, i need the crown wheel and pinion out of an R33 gtst (4.11) or S13 (4.08) diff. Im prepared to buy the whole diff, but dont want to spend a fortune, as i only need these parts but can understand someone not wanting to seperate them. Even if you dont have one, but know someone who has, please let me know as i need them pretty bad. Thanks, Shaun 0414972596

Just heard from the gearbox place. The centre is ok, but the crown wheel and pinion are rooted. Too rooted to have machined, so ill take the opportunity to go the taller R33 gearing. My tooth count is 48/11, so that makes it a 4.36. Am i right in thinking that the R33 is 4.1 or there abouts? Does anyone know where i might be able to pick up these gears without purchasing an entire R33 diff? Thanks guys, Shaun.

I know, i really have no recourse. I went to see him today and he got a bit defensive, but we agreed that i drop the diff off and he inspect it and replace/repair for no labour costs. He said that due to the small amount of driving and lack of tight turns that i did in that short time, the centre will almost certainly be ok. He said that the crown wheel and pinion, however, will be rooted and will probably have to be sent away to be re machined which is about $180. Anyway, i pulled the diff out and dropeed it off this morning, so i will know by the end of the day. He said they never put oil in the diffs or gearboxes they rebuild, but conceeded that he should have told me that because im not a mechanic and know fcuk all. Well i suppose i proved him right. Anyone got a rooted r32 viscous diff with crown wheel and pinion? Shaun.

I cant believe what just happened. I just bought a Kaaz 1.5 way diff, so i gave my old viscous diff still in the housing to a gearbox and diff place, along with the Kaaz diff still in the box with the oil etc. I asked them to change the centres over so i could just bolt the housing with the new centre in the car. I picked it up the next day, they charged me $100 and i took my diff home with the new centre in it. After installing the diff, i took it for a drive to bed it in and noticed unusual noises even when the car was going straight. I pulled over and rang my wife to see if the oil container (that was still in the box with my old viscous centre) was still full. To my disbelief it was. The diff place didnt fill the housing up with the oil that came with it. So now my diff is f**ked after 2km of driving. Am i unreasonable to expect them to fill it with oil after installing the centre? They said nothing about the fact there was no oil in the diff. I assumed that the oil in the container was left over; its a metal container, so its not super obvious that the container is full. I pulled the car off the road, jacked it up and got my wife to bring tools so i could put oil in the diff. After doing this the diff was still extremely tight and was fcuking noisy when driving in a straight line with power to the diff. Im pretty sure its rooted. Anyway, ill approach the diff place tomorrow, but are there replacement clutch packs or something available for these diffs, or did i just lose a grand? Also, obviously i should have checked the oil, but do you guys think i have an argument here? Im so pissed off! Shaun.

^^^^^^lol. That was funny. What doess Greddy mean anyway?? Ive always wondered if it stood for something. Ive only just figured out what JDM stands for......

Unfortunately they dont have the R32 gtst manual listed. What about this then. Are there any other cars (ie; S13 etc) that have the exact same rear end as the R32 gtst? By this i mean the same viscous diff, drive shafts and hubs? Shaun.

Hi, Just wondering where i can get an R32 gtst workshop manual. I can only find gtr ones. Specifically, i need the final drive section which pertains to the viscous LSD, drive shafts and rear hubs. The gtr uses a mechanical LSD and different drive shafts and hubs, so its no good to me. Anyone??? Thanks, Shaun.

Thanks mate. It is a great exhaust.

Jim rebuilt a stuffed second hand single plate Nismo clutch i sent him. Its an awesome clutch; very drivable, reletively light under foot and fairly cheap to do. Holds onto 350rwkw no worries. He could rebuild your twin no worries i expect. Shaun.

Hi, Got this Trust PE II (also called TR Drag) cat back exhaust for sale. It will siut an R32 gtst or gtr. It is designed to be as straight as possible with twin straight through perforated tube mufflers for minimum power loss. The exhaust is ceramic coated mild steel tube with stainless rear cannon with 115mm outlet. Has flowed over 360kwkw with out drama. Only used for a few months; in new condition. Call or PM for pics. Im at work at the moment and cant upload. Paid $1150 Asking $850 Shaun 0414972596

I sent mine up to qld to get reconditioned. There are no places around here that can do it so they all send them up to this place. It cost about $240 delivered. Im assuming that meant a stainless sleeve and new seals. My car came out with this master cylinder, as the late 93 R32 gtst's recieved a brake upgrade.

But what about the whole recommendation thing from Redline??? Has anyone used the heavyweight oil in their box?? It just freaks me out abit if i put the lightweight in a syncromesh box. Or am i just paraniod? It wouldnt be the first time. Paul, i pressed 9 by mistake and got "suspension enquiries". Ill try again later!

It might work with the navara cog, but your speedo will be way out because there is the incorrect number of teeth on the nylon gear. Cubes did an awesome tutorial on this and it will answer any questions you have. Go to the tutorial section, type in Navara speedo sender (or similar) in the search tab and the tutorial will come up. Its even in PDF format. In order to fit the navara cog on the shaft, i used a round file and removed the inner flat section of the cog. Make sure you dont remove too much, as you want it to be a tight tolerance fit on the shaft. Make it so that only the teeth on the shaft bite into the nylon when pressing the cog onto the shaft, otherwise you will break the cog. I seriously doubt it will come off, but i suppose you could use some bonding agent on there. Make sure it can withstand heat, oil and doesnt eat plastic though. Shaun.

Hi, I was just wondering if anyone has had experience cryogenically treating gearbox componants. Ive got a 3rd and 4th syncro problem atm, and may have to pull the box out. If i go for a full rebuild, i was thinking of cryoing what ever componants i can. Is this possible with the syncros or just the gears and input shaft? (i know very little about gearboxes and dont know what the syncros look like). Im trying to handle 350rwkw through this r33 gtst gearbox and, while id love an OS gearset or similar, i just cant afford the $3500 + extra bits to buy one. Also, everyone is going on about the Redline shockproof gear oil and its ability to reduce syncro noise etc. Is this the heavyweight you are all talking about?? The lightweight isnt recommended for syncromesh gearboxes. Are there any adverse effects of the redline?? Thanks, Shaun.

You cant run it without a speedo if you want to have power steering. The speed sensor behind the dash is required for the PS. I had problems similar to this (without the crack in the housing), but it was because i had installed the sender incorrectly. I swapped the nylon gears over no worries, but when installing the sender into the housing, youve gotta rotate it 180 degrees (this is off the top of my head). Otherwise there is too much force on the nylon cog and it will fail. You will notice that the shaft is slightly offset in the sender. My cog fell of the first time and my GB got stuck in reverse. Dont read this post and then take my word for it. I had to use the search button, and find some tutorials that explained exactly what to do. Its all in the rotating of the sender in the box. Mines been going ok for 6 months now whereas the incorrectly installed one failed after a few days. Hope that helps, Shaun. PS If you run into major probs, PM me and i will get the part number of the drive i used and dig out that tutorial. I found all the info pretty easily on this forum though.

Yep, it has abs.

Thanks for your replys guys. At least i know its possible to do without stuffing them.

Yeah, i assumed that you were talking about brake master cylinders.

I just went thru master cylinder problems, and i discovered that there are a lot of different types. I know that mine (1993 R32 gtst M Spec) is the same as the gtrs (non V Spec i think) and has BM-50 on the side which means its got a 1 inch bore. The master cylinders actually have the size of the bore on the side along with the code. Normal R32's have a 15/16" bore. Im pretty sure that was of no help at all. Sorry.