Shaun

Nah, theyre in perfect condition, thats why im concerned about damaging them. Paul, you cost me a fortune in phone calls!!!

Hi, Just wondering what people have done with their R32 gtst rear quarter windows when having their car re-sprayed. I just priced some from Nissan, and because the window and rubber come as a single unit, theyre about $1000 + GST for both sides. Has anyone removed the windows without damaging the rubbers and replaced them after having their car sprayed?

Dammit!! Thanks anyway. Shaun.

Yeah, i looked at them forever trying to find the cuts but they didnt have any. I rang Red Ranger and they just told me to cut them with a blade, as they probably didnt go thru the cutting stage. No biggy; they were pretty easy to install. I used the max traction setting, so it'll be interesting to see how they go. Thanks Gary, Shaun.

Heres mine that i made. It incorporates the remote oil filter as well because i didnt like the idea of having the filter mounted high on the shock tower as some people do. I also used an internal baffle system so that the maximum amount of oil is precipitated from the fumes. I dunno if it works though; i havent really got anything to compare it with. The only thing id change is the use of the K&N breather on the outlet. The filter is fine, but id run the outlet somewhere else, like into the inner guard or down by the steering rack or something like that. The reason is because some of the oily air escapes out of the filter and i get oily build up around my fuse box. Its no biggy, but im a bit anal about it. Also, its a tempting place to put tools and it gets scratched up. The dash 12 or 14 (i forget) braided hose and fittings cost a mint too. I think about $400 from memory, but small diameter hose looks sh1t. Hope that helps, Shaun.

Hey, i was just thinking about what you said could be the problem(s) above, and ive just changed my harmonic balancer to an ATI item. I was pretty paranoid about having the thing come off because ive heard so many stories about this happening, so i really leaned on the bolt when tightening it up. In order to stop the engine spinning when torquing the bolt up, i had the car in fourth gear and the handbrake on tight. Could this have bent the fork or caused any of the damage you suggested above? Im not really sure if any of that hardware is in use when the clutch is not depressed. It would explain a few things though. Thanks, Shaun.

I havent got the diff yet. I ordered one off Slide, so hopefully it'll be here this week. Im not into drifting at all, so im not interested in a 2 way. Hopefull the 1.5 will be the best of both worlds.

^^^^^ Mate, try to help these guys out with a chassis and model number as mentioned above. It makes it much easier for them.

Hey, thanks for doing this guys. Could you help me out with a part number(s) for the rear quarter window rubber seals for a 1993 R32 gtst? So im after the rubbers that go around the rear quarter windows. VIN 6U9000HCR32292253 Model KRCR32RGFS3 FA Chassis HCR32-292253 Thanks, Shaun.

Cool, thanks mate.

Ive gotta drag this thread up again. I just bought some whiteline pinapples off sydneykid, and reading the instructions, it appears that two of the small pinapples should have a "cut" in them. You can see in the diagram above that for the traction set up, im supposed to use the small 'cut' pinapples. The problem is that none of the pinapples i received have cuts in them. Ive got 4 small and 2 large and none with cuts in them. Im not sure what to do. Do i cut two of the small ones? Any info on installation would be appreciated. Shaun.

PMs replied to. Up again.

Awesome! Thanks for that run down CEF11E, that'll be really helpful. I rang a few places and got quoted $60 to $80 for them to change the diff centre over. Thats if i take the entire diff to them, they'll put the new centre in, and ill put the diff back in the car. CEF11E, what do you mean by "special run in oil" for the Kaaz diffs. Do i use this "special" oil while doing the figure eight thing and then put the Kaaz oil in that comes with the diff? Thanks, Shaun.

Up you go.

Bump.

Johno, is it a 1.5 way or 2 way. Do you know if it'll fit my r32 gtst? Im not sure if the 32's and 33's have the same viscous diffs and drive shafts from factory. Shaun.

Dammit, ive still got the clutch disengagement problem. Its only intermittant. It can only really be the clutch now i suppose.

Item: 94mm 'Trust TR Drag' or 'Power Evolution II' cat back exhaust Age: 1 Year old, but car was off the road for 10 of those months. Condition: As good as a second hand exhaust will get. There is a slight graze on the underside of the rear cannon, but that could probably be polished out. See photos. Price: $850 To Fit: R32 gtst. Im positive it will fit on an R32 gtr as well. Location: Central Coast, NSW. (Gosford - 1 hour north of Sydney) Contact: Shaun I bought this exhaust for $1150 from Nengun about a year ago for use on my R32 gtst with Rb26 in it. I sourced the Trust drag exhaust because i was after something without restriction and that was as straight as possible. This exhaust flowed over 350rwkw and sounds great. Its got a center hot dog style muffler and rear cannon, both straight through perforated tube design. The rear cannon is highly polished and machine tig welded stainless with a 115mm tip, while the tube is 94mm ceramic coated mild steel. The exhaust comes with a silencer that can be placed in the rear muffler and is undetectable by authorities. I used this silencer for both my engineers certificate and RTA inspection (while re registering my car with significant modifications), and no one took a second look at the exhaust. Without the silencer, and with my 1.06ar turbine housing, the exhaust was a bit loud for my purpose. My mates didnt have a problem with it, but im a bit conservative. Note that this exhaust probably will not be a bolt on excercise, and will require simple modification of your front pipe. Nothing that a normal off the shelf exhaust will not require though. This exhaust is no longer available anywhere in the world. There is one last place in Australia that has some for R33 and R34, but none for the R32. Im fastideous about my car, and this is a beautiful quality exhaust. I'd keep it if my diff didnt let go. Please dont hesitate to contact me for further enquiries, Shaun 0414 972596.

Ok, thanks. Ive caught a gearbox with my chest before, so it cant be that bad!

Thanks for that mate! You'd think having the part number would make it easier to deal with Gosford Nissan, but nooooooo. Theyre anti skyline or something. I'd rather drive to Hornsby Nissan anyday.

Ive never touched the nipples on the ABS. I just use one of the one man bleeders (very worthwhile purchase), and thouroughly bleed all four sides starting from the passender side rear, and getting progressively closer to the master cylinder. That is; PS rear, DS rear, PS front, DS front. With the one man brake bleeder (it comes with instructions too), pump the peddle about 15 times until the master cylinder reservoir gets to the "minimum" level, no lower, otherwise you'll suck air into the system and have to do it all again. You'll probably go through about a bottle of brake fluid, but youll get a good result.

Awesome, thanks for that. Ill take the diff out of the car and take it to a place for them to do. Im sure the $400 was a drive in, drive out sort of deal, so hopefully i can get it done for the sort of priced you suggested. If not ill take it to that place in Hornsby. Is the diff heavy to remove from the car yourself?

That third pic sucks, but it appears to be an R33 crank. You just saved a grand on a new crank! Now you can go spend it on a million other things needed for what you are doing. Ive been there! Shaun.

Ive got pics here somewhere. Notice the larger surface area of the flattened oil pump drive on the snout of the crank on the R33 item. The R32 is significantly smaller. You can see why they crack oil pump gears.

Hi guys, I havent had much (any) experience with diffs and my viscous lsd is hammered, so im going to replace the centre with a Kaaz 1.5 way. I was just wondering whats involved in installing an aftermarket centre, and if i could do it myself. Im not an idiot, and have done 98% of the work on my car, so im sure i could do it; i just dont know whats involved because ive never delved into the diff area before. Does the diff housing have to be removed from the car and then you install the centre while the diff is on a bench, or is it all done while underneath the car? Is it a matter if putting the Kaaz in the housing, then thats it. Or does someone who knows what theyre doing have to set the diff up? I mean set the tightness of the diff, or is all that done from factory? Is there anything else worthwhile doing in there while its all apart? Thanks in advance. I havent even seen inside a diff before, so i just want to get an idea of whats involved, and whether i have to factor in $400 worth of labour ito the purchase price. Shaun.