Shaun

^^^^^Yeah the senders are shite. My standard one commonly reads zero while my greddy gauge says 4 o r 6 or something like that. Its well known the senders fail. Why is this thread in the drivetrain section?

I havent taken it off the stands yet; ive had the flu soooo bad this week, i havent really left the sofa. The Nismo slave definately makes the pedal lighter (i reckon 30% lighter), but i did the braided line thing at the same time, so im not sure if thats had an effect on the feel either. Ill take it for a spin tomorrow if its not raining up here. Just a side note. Ive also had a really annoying squeek in the clutch fork inside my gearbox, so i took the rubber boot off and lubricated the little ball thing with an extended paddle pop stick and some bearing grease. Youve gotta be really careful not to get grease everywhere otherwise it might get on your clutch, but its so much nicer to push the clutch in now. A really worthwhile thing to do if your clutch squeeks inside the gearbox housing.

Where do you put the fuse box when you hide the wiring? Also, what do you do with the metal brake lines coming from the ABS; do you get them powder coated or something, or do you just leave them with that wierd green coating on them. Im gonna seriously tidy up my engine bay next year.

I dont think you have to be a mechanic to understand how a diff works. I certainly dont understand it 100% (and dont pretend to), but it definately isnt rocket science.

Could you help me out with a part number for an R32 gtst accellerator cable? 1993 r32 gtst VIN 6U9000HCR32292253 Model KRCR32RGFS3 FA Chassis HCR32-292253 Thanks

Thanks mate. I just installed the master cylinder with the braided line and Nismo slave. The pedal is definately lighter, which is good because it was too heavy before. I adjusted the position of the clutch pedal and its too high so ill put it back where it was. The braided line thing is definately worth while, as its so easy to bleed the clutch now. I got mine made up for $60 from the local brake and clutch place; i couldnt spend $120 on one from UAS.

Thanks for the explanation above. Ok, here's mine: Vin# 6U9000HCR32292253 Model # KRCR32RGFS3 Chassis # HCR32-292253 Also, can you help me out with a part number for an accellerator cable for the above car? Thanks, Shaun.

^^^^ Thats exactly what im having made up at the moment. Ill piss off the hard lines and replace it with a single braided line. I also bought a Nismo slave cylinder, so hopefully it might make a bit of difference. Im pretty sure you lose a bit of travel with the Nismo slave though, because of its larger diameter bore. Ive still got some adjustment on the master cylinder push rod though. I dont really understand the hot climate thing, as there is no flow in the clutch line anyway, so no real cooling effect. Except for increased surface area maybe.

Yeah that price on the Nismo diff is good. If he's still doing those prices i'll buy one for sure. If not ill get a Kaaz 1.5 way from Slide who has them for unbeatable prices. For interests sake, Greenline quoted the Cusco RS for $1353 and the Nismo LSD Pro TT for $1337 delivered to (near) Sydney. $1040 delivered for the Kaaz is too good to pass up i reckon, although i would like the Nismo. I think it comes with half shafts too. Anyway, i was just wondering how i install the diff centre. Ive never worked on diffs before. Do i have to take the diff housing out, or is it all done from underneath the car? Does the diff have to be set up at all by an experienced diff dude? I was hoping that i could install the centre, and then take the diff to a diff place for them to do the rest. Is this how it works? A diff place just quoted me about $400 to do the lot excluding carrier bearings. (i thought it would have come with these). An insight into the process involved would be appreciated. Shaun.

Where do you install these scatter shields, on the inside or outside of the gearbox? Are they just like a kevlar type blanket?

Are you talking about your GTR diff^^^^? Ive got some stock R33 gtr dumps if you want them. Theyre the cast things off the back of the turbine housings arent they. Just to clarify.

Thats the info i was after Mr Barron, thanks for that. Ill opt for the aftermarket centre i think; especially since the gtr lower shock mount is different, as i just installed new Bilsteins and set them up. $1000 for all the gear (from SSS) + $200 for the clutch upgrade + screwing around with my rear shocks = aftermarket centre for me. Just got to decide on which one; Nismo, Cusco, Kaaz; theyre probably all made in the same factory anyway! It does concern me about the smaller drive shafts, but i suppose i could have strengthened ones made if they become a problem (i dont think they will for my application tho). Great info, thanks again, Shaun.

^^^^^ Yeah, thats what i was told, so i'd rather do it right the first time. My car is street driven 99% of the time (although i only drive it once or twice a week, and NEVER in the rain - god forbid), but i think ill go a 1.5 way. Im really interested in the Cusco RS, but im still waiting on prices from Greenline. The Nismo LSD Pro TT model is too expensive. It seems no one can beat Slide's prices of $1040 delivered for a Kaaz diff, but im having trouble finding info on them other than generic marketing stuff. I really really dont want an obnoxious diff for everyday driving. Has anyone had experience with both the Cusco and Kaaz diffs? Are they ok on the street if you use the right oil and bed them in ok? Shaun.

Yeah but everyone ive spoken to about it says that they can shim it up no worries, but ill just start open wheeling soon after. If i had standard (or close to) power thats exactly what id be doing, but i dont think the viscous diffs like over 300kw.

I was looking for a 1.5 way LSD. Pretty pricy though. Slide on this forum has the best prices by far.

I dont understand this thread. What is the benefit of having my VIN 'fasted'?

Yeah, dont worry about it. I just figured it out; im an idiot.

Im using a metalcat brand cat converter and ive noticed no power losses at all. Ive got two front pipes; one with the cat and one without, but i cant tell the difference except for the stain i get on the rear bar without the cat. Im using 3.5 inch exhaust, 4in cat and flows 350kw without a drama.

Has anyone else had problems with the Nengun website? It comes up no problems on my computer, but all the words are overlapping each other and in about 22 font; impossible to read. Whats the go?

Hi, Ive been doing a bit of research on diff upgrades for my r32 gtst, and there are a few things that im having difficulty finding out. The first option is to go for an R32 gtr diff and replace the drive shafts and hubs to suit. Apparently though, the gtr drive shafts are 40mm longer than the gtst ones (SSS told me this), and im not sure if it will cause problems. Is there anyone out there who has done this conversion, and is it a simple procedure? Im getting varying views when i use the search button. The gtr diff is a 2 way, but i dont want an obnoxious diff, as the car is 95% street driven. All the hardware will cost about $1000 plus extra if i have the gtr diff tightened, so im not sure if its better to just go one of the options below: Nismo GT LSD Pro TT Model in 1.5 way. $1119 + delivery from Greenline. Didnt really want to spend this much, but i suppose the gtr diff will end up costing similar in the end. Also, ive heard good things about this diff in street driven applications. I'd rather spend extra for something i can live with (almost) every day Cusco Type RS in 1.5 way. Its $857 + delivery so its a bit cheaper, but i have no idea how it performs. Anyone have any experience? I'd probably rather buy new than second hand, as the gtr diff will be old, but i was wondering if my standard driveshafts will be up to the task if i get the Nismo or Cusco (the gtr shafts are thicker). Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Shaun.

Ive been doing a bit of ringing around, and discovered that a complete R32 gtr rear end (from disc to disc) is about $1000 from SSS. The only thing that im worried about is the length of the rear drive shafts. The guy at SSS said that the gtr shafts are 40mm longer than the gtst ones, and he wasnt sure what people do about this. Can anyone confirm that the shafts will fit without problems? Also, ive got DBA rotors on the rear of my car atm; will i still be able to use these with the gtr rear end? Thanks in advance, Shaun.

Yeah, ive just been searching about the different diffs (1.5 and 2 way), and i can see the dollar signs already. Im after a fairly cheap alternative; maybe a 23gtr diff with the kit from Nismo. I dunno.

Right. Ive really got no idea where to start. Ill have to do some research. Any of you guys know of any diff gurus that i can call for advice and quotes?

^^^^^ Agreed Stuart. Jim does have a business to run, so ill just see what the outcome is before i make judgement. Its such a shame to see this happen though. Jim certainly can talk; ill never ring him on a mobile again!

Are gtr diffs better than gtst diffs? I thought they were all R200, but clearly im no expert. I think i'd opt to rebuild the stock diff, as they seem like a pretty good piece of gear.