RB30-POWER

Hey Guys, I have the following for sale. Item 1) 6x Low km R34 GTR Injectors in mint condition, these have been ultrasonically cleaned and have the o-rings etc with them. $350 firm. These injectors are the ones you want, the R32 and R33 items tend to be starting to leak from the body due to their age now, so I don't care if you can get them cheaper elsewhere. Item 2) Z32 Bosch AFM used but as new, comes with original box and receipt. $250 firm. I can throw in a used plug if you like, unsure if I have the rubber boot, but I have a plug for sure. I can email pics to anyone interested. Regards Mick

SOLD

As per title, selling a set of DB1170, only done a few km on my car, so basically new. $85 to your door. Had to remove the large calipers to fit smaller wheels so the big brakes have to go unfortunately. These pads should suit most skylines, 300zx, 200sx and wrx's. Can supply pics of the actual pads to confirm as new if requested. Most people would know these things stop awesome by now and at that price is a bargain.

you would want to check that the fuel tank doesn't have any perished breather hoses and also that the fuel injectors aren't leaking, rather common for these early jecs/bosch fuel injectors to leak from the body and they must be replaced they can not be repaired. whether it's a gtr, vl commodore, nissan exa, very common now they are getting on in age...

couple of vids of 2rismo, only got there late in the day. will put up some vids of the silver beast shortly.

will be close/borderline to being maxed. if you were under i would say ok, if you want a solid 300+ then maybe get a 044 bosch motorsport pump, good for >400rwkw. see how it goes, if it leans out even with extra injector duty cycle, will need to upgrade.

first sunday final run vs the ute.

is this the one, looks like you were on a sunday drive, haha

2.4l for r32 gtst 3.6l for r33 gtst use castrol vmx80 or equivalent

yeah, might be best to get a tuner, familiar with the ecu and engine to tune each load point to best torque. dyno will make it easy to see the output figures. most likely should budget a few hours.

with engine warm you need to disconnect the tps sensor and adjust idle screw at back of iac assembly to 600rpm, then reconnect the tps and idle should be correct. that is the basic run down, i have posted full procedures in the past. only on the early rb engines you disconnect aac valve plug, rb25det is different procedure. also the nvct is activated/advanced off idle, so yes the clicking will be the nvct solenoid.

gt3076r is good compromise as mentioned, good match up, front to back and will net around 300rwkw, give or take a little. gt3582r will have more lag on a 2.5l, but highly recommended on a 3.0l, will support 350+rwkw rather easily. whilst these are efficient turbos, if you plan on using them on 2.5l, there will be some lag, but such is the price when you wish to fit 500-700hp turbochargers to these types of engines. easiest just to look in the results section for your engine type stickied in this forum and see what works well or what you like the look of, as plenty of dyno graphs posted.

compressor will do around 450hp of flow, with the 0.63 turbine a/r biggest option listed, you will be pegged to about 350-370hp at the treads on pump gas. 0.82 housing and you will be more capable of maxing out the compressor. it's the sort of thing where, you might as well get the standard turbo highflowed and that way all the plumbing and oil lines etc will bolt back up again, both will make similar power, due to the rear housing sizing.

all that refers to is t04e compressor housing and t3 turbine housing. doesn't tell you squat apart from it is a probably a bastardised "high flow" / hybrid type turbo. the idea was sound back 20 years ago, when performance turbochargers were not available off the shelf, what you did was get a t04 compressor wheel and housing and retrofit it to your existing t3 turbine housing, so you had extra flow from the compressor, yet with the t3 turbine you still got good spool time, if you kept the entire t04 turbo assembly complete, usually sourced from a truck, it would never spool up on most engines. the problem is usually the turbine housing will restrict the big wheel and front compressor housing sooner or later so you never get to release the full power the compressor is capable of unless you run high octane race gas. you can also suffer compressor surge and other nasty traits. a properly matched performance turbocharger from the likes of garret gt range with a supporting compressor map that suits your engine will be the best outcome. a t04e with conventional wheels has following flow 40 trim (36 lbs/min) 46 trim (41 lbs/min) 50 trim (47 lbs/min) 54 trim (45 lbs/min) 57 trim (49 lbs/min) 60 trim (50 lbs/min) to determine what power that turbo in question would be capable of, we would need compressor trim, turbine wheel size/type/stage, turbine a/r etc.

did you fill it correctly through the filler hole and not through the shifter and guess the amount of fluid? if it is filled correctly, i.e. correct level, running out of filler hole with the car level, then change to another fluid. redline is over rated in my books anyway.

they fatigue after a while. almost all r31 and vl have this fault as well that i have seen. i would just double check that the viscous fan centre is working properly, not locked up all the time as this will put extra load onto the blades.

trial and error with the tyre pressure. too low and you will have less contact patch on street tyres and potentially lower the grip levels. start with 30psi hot pressure and drop a few psi at a time if you think this is a problem.

the amplifier usually refers to the fan resistor (although not a resistor with climate control, it is a transistor!) it will be in the ducting under passenger side dash. look at guilt toys thread for more info. if this plays up you usually loose all fan speeds but max (on most cars, as max goes straight through the relay)

just unplug the cas, that way fuel and ignition is disabled in one because it can't tell the engine is cranking. do the compression test when it is hot/operating temp for best results.

zoom tested this many years ago on various rb engines at different power levels. their test revealed zero gain in all situations. i would not bother myself.

put some drag radials on, it is your best chance of good quarter, otherwise you will burn it all up off the line.

fairly sure the 370 has near perfect 50/50 weight balance so should have the potential to handle very well.

rb25 air reg is good, unscrews into half and you can see internals and clean easily, earlier rb engines it is solid alloy and can't see shit because it is pressed together, however, cleaning it through the hose holes still fixes them 99% of the time on the early type. when you seperate it, just be careful on the gasket, it will tear in two usually, but just use some silicon to seal it back up, but go easy with it, you will not need much at all for a successful seal. i usually use wd40 to lube and clean them, you usually don't need to use carby cleaner as they are never that bad, it is just the mech inside get a little stuck and the wd40 lubes and cleans at the same time, move the mech at the same time a little to free it up if it is stuck.

if it isn't raising cold rpm idle speed, you need to remove the air regulator, dismantle and give it a good clean/free it up.

ditto that.