RB30-POWER

your microtech uses a map sensor (pressure), so no, plugging in the afm is waste of time as its not used.

best tip i can give here. go get a genuine oil pump gasket from nissan, they are like $5, and for the sake of not pulling all that crap off again if it leaks, its worth the cost of genuine part.

if you get the rb26 engine harness from the same model vehicle as you have (i.e. r32/r33/r34) i would imagine the engine harness will plug straight into the body harness for instruments etc.

i have a mint sender if anyone wants to make an offer on it. it might be the sender, it might also be the dash guage. at the end of the day unless you put a mechanical guage on it, you will not really know the pressures for sure.

sounds like the map in the ecu is corrupt, when the neutral position switch is turned on/off (by moving gear selector) its turning fuel pump on and off. the auto ecu uses this switch to raise idle up and down for when it goes in gear. the ecu map is corrupt mate, and its using that input to do something other then it should. or other alternative is the ecu is from another nissan vehicle that uses a different pinout.

car would not run if that was the case, as it powers the ecu

thats cheap for R34 injectors. (provided they really are...) its worth paying the extra people as the R34 are alot newer, always have less km's on them then the early GTR injectors do and will not leak from the body, which most R32/R33 are prone to doing these days.

the main eccs relay is usually mounted right near the ecu, its usually a blue or green relay, can't miss it.

Below are some things that are different today as compared with turbo cars of say late 80’s, early 90’s Higher static compression ratios Intercooling Better multivalve cylinder heads (increases Volumetric efficiency and increased knock resistance - better squish zones, relates to above) Higher octane fuel. Double overhead cams Continuously variable cam timing over infinite range Ceramic turbos Variable geometry turbos (will see heaps more of these soon) Direct injection Light weight oils Low friction technology in alot of engines Advanced knock control now days Improved ECU processing power Sequential injection Higher engine operating temps for increased efficiency Ecu controlled alternators More efficient drive trains, less friction loss.

No you don't have too. But if it's gunna make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside, do it

They are always reluctant to do anything without a VIN these days. Lazy arses...

im going to say its the link, had similar problems before. no i didn't solve them, just sold the ecu's...

is it a manual scroll type knob for the rheostat or a push button up/down. if its just a rheostat type, just bridge the wires or earth it out, but if its push button/module type it ain't that easy. not familiar with the vehicle, so i can't really say with any more detail. typically however the brightness controls, control the earth side of the instrument lights, if that helps at all...

does it have a rheostat to adjust the brightness of the dash lights? if it doesn't, you might have to rip the cluster out and have a look/test.

more then likely, the idle control solenoid/stepper will be rooted. try doing the carbie clean thing first, bure more then likely you will need a new one, common problem.

The only thing the Nissan ECU's learn really is the closed loop fuel VE and ALPHAS. They are really good ecu's in all other respects really. With other cars however, like Holden Commodores for eg, they have to learn not only closed loop fuel VE tables, but also in particular, what voltage is closed and full throttle, how many steps the idle stepper motor should default to when AC is turned on, "D" is selected and other loads. (Resets stepper motor calibration on battery re-connect after 60km/h) Daewoos another typical example. But there is heaps. One in particular is Subaru ECU's, they actually add timing as you drive it under certain conditions, so if you reset the ecu, the car will have less performance/power, but there is a trick, can't recall exactly, but roughly what you do is, use the brake to build boost around 3psi hold around 3500rpm for a km or so of driving, and that way, you are holding the engine in the knock learning/control zone and you can get it to go up to the maximum ignition timing tables very quickly. (good for 10-20kw atw apparently) Rather then driving it for a few weeks and finally getting up there. But back to Nissan, not really much for them to learn apart from fuel, they are good IMHO...

Nah thats the thing, they never actually lock up as such, they always slip some even when hot. The only reason I asked is I have seen the above when the hubs have actually locked (faulty). i.e they spin at full engine speed. If you replaced the entire fan assembly not just the blades, it rules it out anyway.

there is no use, its constantly learning, reset will do jack f**k

If you can't find a listing for imported vehicle batteries, look into BMW batteries that may fit, they are in the boot as standard and have the vent tube. BMW usually have rather large batteries, unsure how much space in the R33 so double check dimensions first. If you can get one to fit, it will then be fully safe and legal.

Also check the fan viscous hub is not locked up completely, which allows the blades to flex into radiator when oversped from faulty centre.

could be turbo, could be boost leak, could be blown exhaust gasket my money would be on an exhaust gasket, but thats not seeing/hearing it. you will need to work out which one it is, if thats the case...

drain the oil, replace sump washer and torque plug up, remove and replace filter, fill engine with 4L or so of oil, start engine, wait for oil light to extinquish, let sit for a minute, check dip stick level. top up until FULL. the reason you start it after filling initially is because the oil filter is not full of oil initially until you start it and you will get a misleading oil level. (higher then it actually will be once new oil filter is full)

they are all from the same family (RB) and all made in JAPAN its fair to say the RB26 was cast thicker in some areas to help with the 4wd system that is used by it in particular, as mentioned above. and just looking at them will tell you jack f**k about the metals properties used in the blocks. rb25 block pics attached for cubes

electronic power balance tests aren't worth squat in my books, unless the cylinder is gone completely you see minimal variation in rpm anyway. compression check, followed by a leak down test if needed for further diagnosis.

The RB30DET in the R31 gets a consistant 12.5L/100 around town with a/c on and some fanging, around 11.5L/100 with a/c off. On freeway it only does 10.0L/100, dissapointing really, I think mainly due to cruising RPM at high freeway speeds at 3000rpm, due to short 3.7:1 diff ratio. Needs a 6 speed box and rpm dropped down to around 1500rpm, then it should be doing around 7L/100km. (Based on the fact my RB30ET (less efficient) can do 10.0L/100 on freeway with a/c on - has taller diff ratio) Could go taller diff ratio, but will loose some snapiness of the lower gears. Also would improve if boost afr mixtures were a little leaner as well.