RB30-POWER

around 14psi is the max suggested difference between cylinders

Disconnect the wire from the sender and ground it to the chasis, check that the guage shows full deflection (H) If it does you atleast know the guage and wiring is good.

Usually an ignition fault will cause that, however you would have felt the car run shite, if that was the case. You will have to put a scope onto the tacho output terminal on the ecu and check its output is o.k. If its o.k. it more then likely guage cluster itself. Check the guage ground wires first however. Could be a cracked track on the board, hard to say without looking at it. Only thoughts I have, others might know more...

longer the better for curing, but yeah as above try for a couple of hours atleast. (o/night ideally) if you don't rush it to much you will have a perfect end result.

Just have a look (brands don't matter much) at all the coloured RTV sealants at an auto parts place and they state on the packets if they are designed for sumps etc i.e. oil proof. You can't go wrong really. From what I can tell, the colours relate to temperature more then anything, they all seem to be oil resistant and O2 safe. I've used the orange and grey ones with plenty of sucess in the past. Just make sure the surfaces are real clean when you apply it. Use a scraper and Gasket Remover spray to aid removal of old crap. You may have to hit the holes back out on the sump, if you get what i mean, that way when you torque it up, it will pull it up tight, sometimes the bolt holes get pushed flat or out and the actual sump surface does not sit flush, even though the bolts are torqued up. If that makes any sense....

But its worth it, because it makes your engine look hectik tuff br0!

The RB25 sensor has different connector to the VL/R31. Resistance seem same/similar however. The R32 must use the older connector (squarish shape same as 26 inlet sensor as you say)

No it will do sfa, unless your car needs extra fuel. Which yours will not. It would be worthwhile upgrade however if you plan to upgrade your turbo and injectors in future. You can get a small flow increase from the standard pump if you bypass the FPCM also.

If you don't have a service manual with the specs to test sensor with a multimeter get a consult scan cable and software and check the realtime values are what they should be, particularly coolant temp, afm etc. If it looks in spec, check the fuel pressure, as you may have a blocked return line or the return/feed lines on back the front of the fuel pressure regulator. If everything is standard, confirm you have the correct injectors on the engine and check the ecu hasn't been tampered with. Someone may have thrown bigger injectors in without upgrading ecu in the past, or removed a chipped ecu without changing back to standard injectors. Just some stuff you have to check on imports as you don't know what has been tampered with during its life.

for the first poster, if you don't have the engine in a skyline, make sure you have the "START" signal wire hooked up to the ecu, this signal, tells ecu its in crank mode and injects set fuel amount, which it will not if not hooked up obviously. if its hooked up test your coolant temp sensor. also try priming the pump a couple of times before starting, if fuel pressure has bled off overnight it may indicate a stuffed fuel pump check valve. for the second poster, what ecu have you got? cold tuning is needed, but it will more then likely never start as good as the factory ecu as alot of aftermarket ecus lack alot of cold start trimmings that the factory ecu's have to aid cold start.

Wouldn't metallurgy play a part as well, regardless of if its of H or I beam design if its made from chicken shit, it will be shit. Shouldn't be much of a problem with reputable rod makers however...

more then likely the boost or actual airflow atleast has gone up and is tripping the airflow limiter in ecu (aka rich and retard) lower the boost and you will find it will more then likely dissapear. alternative is to fit powerfc or FCD/SAFC as a semi-perm fix.

If you mention import, they might wack an extra $10 on Just buy for RB30 R31, $39 retail, last time I ordered (not to say price has gone up) Aftermarkets are like $40 here for RB30, can't get over it, every other cars is the usual $15, which is still overpriced for the quality they are. Sent you a PM as well.

without a thermostat the water flows to fast through the radiator to remove heat once the coolant is saturated. another function of the thermostat, which not many people know is that it causes a restriction in such a manner that the pressure in the block and at the cylinder head is increased above the radiator pressure. this is critical in preventing localised boiling and steam packets in this area. lowering the thermostat opening temp is going to reduce thermal efficiency reducing power and economy, this is why cars now are usually rated at well over 100degC opening temp. i don't suggest going higher then standard in the RB engines as temperature of the engine is also related to the metalurgy of the head as alloy heads are sensitive and can go soft it overheated beyond standard temp. with regards to the nissan vs aftermarket, genuine nissan are same price if not cheaper then aftermarket, so why mess around with the cheap flimsy chinese crap, that has crap temp regulation and are prone to jambing open or closed.

Autospeed has tested the pressure drop across the standard paper element filter and intake on a vl turbo in the past, the air flow meter mesh was biggest restriction at like 25% of the total restriction and the paper element filter was like 1%, stuff all basically and they are the same filter as the Skylines. At normal power levels under 250rwkw there would be bugger all power in it. Atleast when you consider a paper element filter, filters the best as well. Go to autospeed to check out the article.

See a peak of around 4.3V on my brothers RB30DET with VG30 AFM at 6psi w/VG30 turbo. Expect around 180-200rwkw, so the above figures sound alright to me.

If it was cut most people do it at the ecu anyway, it will be obvious. People cut it to rid the speed limit, but the better option is always to use a speed cut defender, that will clamp the signal at a set value to fool the ecu into thinking its going slower then it is. The speed signal is used for optimise fuel cut conditions etc, nothing major that many people would notice, hence people cutting the wire and thinking everything is sweet, when ideally speed cut defender or remapped chip is better option. Little offtopic anyway, but yeah 53 what you want to give a vehicle speed signal to the turbo timer. Personally I think turbotimers are full wank value on cars fitted with water cooled turbos anyway and would never ever fit one myself.

yeah pin 53 you want. just be careful it hasn't already been cut to disable 180km/h speed limiter, if it has make sure its connected to the speedo side obviously.

all much the same bar outside diameter which means larger filters have more filtering medium surface area in the filter. unless its blocked the fuel volume is the same as any filter, its dictated by the fuel pump you have. just get whatever its meant to have on there.

Shouldn't need to touch accelerator to start it. You will need to check the throttle position sensor is set correctly and working, especially idle position, check the coolant temp sensor if you think its lacking enrichment, check the base idle, check for vac leaks and maybe clean/service the air regulator. After fixing that it should start at the touch of the key first time, every time. Also try priming the pump for a few secs before start, see if it helps, this could point to a faulty check valve in the pump if it starts after the rail is primed with pressure.

Only use genuine Nissan thermostats, the characteristics of some of the aftermarket ones are dodgy. You may have air in the system as well.

The HEC715 have a very low primary resistance winding and are designed to work with smart current limited (7amps) ignition modules. If you use it on the Rb20 ignitor, it has the possibility of burning out the transistors in the ignition module. Also changing to these coils means the factory programmed dwell times aren't really programmed to charge the larger coils, so you may not get saturation and maximum spark. There is just to many variables to really say, yes it will work but for how long, you may not have optimal spark output and it may or may not eventually kill the module. I doubt you have 6 stuffed coils, just buy good s/hand replacements and change the dud ones. Then leave the coil cover off in future to stop the heat getting to them.

Ok, what you need to do is locate the wire from the dash/temp guage that should connect to the temp sender on the engine (its a single wire) Now, get this wire and connect it to ground/earth temporarily. Turn on ignition and see if guage rises to full scale (HOT) - Turn the ignition off before it shoots off the scale. If it deflects to full scale, you know the guage is working fine and you will have to get the correct sender in the engine to suit the dash guage. So basically make sure you use the A31 original sender not the RB25 item, that would be different.

Well the NA 300ZX is rated at 580KG, but the 300ZX TT and GTR have clutch boosters, so im guessing they are heavier then you think, I just don't know how the RB26 with the ATTESSA driveline compares to RWD 300ZX in clutch department, which i know is 800KG. I tried looking up clutch manufacturers info, but they typically state 20% heavier then standard for their sports clutches, which sounds like a crock, they should list actual specs so people know... Im not really interested in interchanging the clutches as im sure the 300ZX is larger anyway, just trying to find the specs if anyone knew for sure... Cheers

Anybody know what the standard GTR clutch cover/pressure plate is rated at? I know the 300ZX TT is rated at 800KG, but trying to get an idea what the standard GTR is, as I can't find it in my documentation on GTR. Thanks