RB30-POWER

are you guys reading the rpm with a proper tacho pickup on the coil/cas or the dash guage? dash guages aren't accurate, so you can't really go buy that.

I think he was refering specifically to Walbro, where he had a bad experience, not Bosch as well.

That rom file has the airflow limiter removed, speedcut removed and rev limit of 6900rpm if that helps you.

walbro are good if you get a genuine walbro, and its the 255lph high pressure version. non genuine, 190l versions, non high pressure versions, all not suitable for performance. its critical that you get the right one. people bag them out, but i can guarantee they haven't been genuine or the correct walbro pump. took me ages to find a genuine pump when i needed one, but its great

Sounds like an EMS brand ecu to me. Settings would be: -"Hall" -"0" is used in most Nissan modes on those ecus and the trigger wire is wired to the output on the crank angle sensor that gives the 6 output pulses per rpm rather then the outside trigger that has 360 pulses per rpm. Just check the help file it tells you in there as your coil configuration also will effect this setting. -"No missing teeth" -"Narrow" if your using the standard oxygen sensor -"3" if its a 4460 model (only has max 4 outputs for coils, you will have to double up cylinders for waste spark arrangment -"1.8" ohms each If its the lower spec EMS model (with max of 4 injector drivers) your going to need to double up injectors as well, you have to wire each pair in series, which technically makes the circuit become high impedance.

The GTT NEO engine and engine managment system is different to the R33 so you can't compare them. Yes the NEO has a "Boost Pressure Sensor" aka map sensor on the back of the engine rocker covers. Yes it is connected to the engine managment system. What use this has with regards to fuel and timing functions i don't know if any, it may be either a back up sensor, or used to switch the pollution system purge valves etc (more accurate pollution control) I dunno exactly. There was however a few threads, where a few GTT owners were fiddling with the outputs from the map sensor to the ecu, trying to run more boost, but you would have to search for those threads. I didn't follow the threads so im unsure what the outcome was...

Hey Guys and Gals. Just thought I would make this thread as its become apparent to me alot of people use the BCP plugs in their RB engines with coil on plug spark systems. The correct plug to suit the engine and coil arrangment is actually the BK type plug. So for example, you should use BKR6ES-11 instead of BCPR6ES-11 in standard copper type plugs, PFR6G-11 for Platinum type plugs and BKR6EIX-11 for Iridium. The BK type meet the "ISO" standard and are designed for the coils that go over the top of the plug, the BCP type meet the "JIS" are designed for speak plug leads. The difference is the BK type are 2.5mm shorter and if you use the BCP type the spring in the coil can be damaged or compressed, so that if you go back to the correct plug, it doesn't make correct contact and cause possible missfire. I know alot of you will say, yeah yeah, I use BCP without dramas, but fact is that type is not designed for coil on plug ignition systems. Just thought i would make this thread so all owners are aware of what might not otherwise be apparent.

no way in the world its the water pump.

takes 5 minutes to remove old actuator and test new one. personally i think it will be very very close, if not hitting. but why speculate...

absolutely, the cooler the air the denser (more air sensed by air flow meter) means the rich and retard effect will happen sooner. stock ecu's are useless on modified vehicles unless they are chipped.

If he has ground it undersize, it will need a sleeve for sure to seal up. Why the hell did he decide to machine that part for, if it wasn't hugely scored to begin with there is no need a new seal would have worked fine. Its not gunna be cheap a sleeve that large in diameter. Apparently from what i'm told, what they typically do now is metal spray the crank and then machine it back to factory measurements to save the sleeving process. To late now its all assembled though i guess... Do a google search, most bearing shops carry the Speedi product range. They are rather simple to install, choosing the correct size on is the hardest part, you have to measure exactly. http://www.chicago-rawhide.com.au/Products/speedisleeve.htm That might give an idea.

it will be in a different spot because of the cam gear now, rotating the camshaft a few deg. however, the powerfc and crank should be matched exactly, if it was originally mapped with the crank and powerfc not matched, when you match it back up, you could either advance or retard your entire map. depends on if you know for fact it was originally tuned with it all sync'd together.

its funny all these threads are starting to pop up now. a few months back, there was speculation about dodgy AFM, about the same time every second person was selling new ones for like under$300 i needed one, so decided to play it safe, went out of my way to get a s/hand unit from a import wreckers, glad i did now, it works a treat, unlike some of these new ones...

haha, sounds like he is just going to retard the cas a bit too... i would be seriously checking the light isn't flashing because the AFM or injectors are maxed as well, can't just assume its knock, unless you know how its setup.

i've sent cash0 a pm regarding testing of the sensor, so we will have to wait and see if its the problem in this case.

drill a row of holes along the gear at opposite side to one another, then get a cold chisel and split it. only way i have found that doesn't cause damage to the oil pump etc. timing gear is $45odd from nissan to replace however. edit: as for the gasket, you could get away with silicone gasket glue, but i never would, its a prick to get off again if it leaks, get the gasket from nissan as well, its like $10 and worth the piece of mind alone.

not really, go buy some transmission hose, can get 5/16 and 3/8. would be much more suitable in all respects.

alternatively buy a consult cable and download the free software if you have a laptop and check all values in realtime. let me know either way.

if you have a multimeter or can get one from dick smith for $10, i can tell you how to test the coolant temp sensor if you want?

you really want to check the coolant temp sensor. this sensor is used for fuel enrichment when the engine is cold. chances are its stuck at a hot value (resistance) and the car is running real lean when its cold. can measure the resistance of the sensor with an ohm meter with it disconnected or use a volt meter with it connected to see if its in spec, but either way from your description this sounds the culprit.

can usually put a seal kit through them provided the bore isn't damaged. even if it is damaged most of them you can get a sleeve put in them as well. so you can either take it straight to a brake specialist that can reco the master for you, or pickup a s/hand master depending on your circumstances. always seems to be plenty of low km half cuts around that people must have these bit left over, otherwise reco is a fairly safe option.

nah it will be fine, as far as i know it was only minor ancillary stuff that was different, like tps, ignitor, ecu etc shortblock would be fine to interchange.

Yep, hit the nail on the head. RB rocker cover bolts are notorious for working loose even if you tighten the crap out of them. The spec say something like 8Nm, but that stupid i have found. Just torque the farkers up until you think the rubber is getting excessively squashed. And you can check them as part of your service routine every 6 months.

Its easier to ignite a rich mixture then it is to ignite a leaner mixture, so it could be the coil packs with hairline cracks allowing the spark to find an easier path to earth. Also you can't just turn the CAS or you cause your motor to detonate if you over advance the timing. Get a timing light and to it properly or expect to be rebuilding your motor soon.

your going to need to apply power to the afm off the vehicle and measure the output voltage on the signal terminal and check if thats working. (will find pinout on these forums somewhere) if its works then the problem is the ecu or wiring to the airflow meter plug.