RB30-POWER

if the master cylinder is full of fluid still then it fairly safe to say its stuffed, however if its out of fluid there could be a leak on the lines or calipers somewhere.

could be as simple as a vacuum leak from a pipe they didn't hook up, or they could have put the timing belt on a tooth or number of teeth out, crank angle sensor may not have been adjusted to correct timing either. difficult to say exactly what they have done...

If you run one of the jaycar autospeed electronic boost controllers, yes you could bring boost on sooner, as that system uses the solenoid directly inline with the wastegate actuator, instead of just bleeding boost off it controls the boost getting to the actuator. If you keep the solenoid 100% closed until you have the boost it will help eliminate wastegate creep that is typical of some other systems as no pressure is getting to the actuator.

interesting, can't say i seen that on the last motor i assembled. looks like some sort of restrictor?

Both PMs responded too. Looks like its all sold guys. Cheers!

Hey guys, Have the following for sale. RB25DET Series 2 ECU from 5 speed $50 also RB20DET/Series 1 Green label Air flow meter (w/plug & wire inc) Has mesh removed for more flow $50 Both items in mint 100% working order, removed for upgrades on various vehicles I have. Buyer to pay postage if required on items.

those plate are **** don't waste your money. didn't even know what it meant until you wrote it in the thread. maybe im just slow?

"irregularly placed cooling fan blades bring new quiteness" thats a quote from Nissan marketing material. i know exactly what you mean, long story short that type of blade should work better and be more quiet, then the even spaced design. how many blades 7 or 9 on the fan you have?

do the dash lights have a rheostat like other cars?

it will be alright, you just get alot of power loss, and shabby power curve. which always brings you back to why bother trying to run more boost at all. if you want performance get an ecu and be done with it, i say.

the torque hole is so typical of the standard ecu based airflow limiter settings in the ecu. i will agree however, those afr aren't to bad for a stock ecu at all, usually once you see that torque dip where it cuts ignition you will see the afr go down to 10's. could just be the pump on its way out or other cause of low fuel pressure.

tonight, when its dark, start it with the coil valley cover off and see if you can see sparks arcing from the coil body to the head. if you can to easy.... if you cant, pull them off and test them and also look for hairline cracks.

Just go 2J, it will have more torque, which will power it better and allow you to find a diff ratio easier to suit the holden diff. Plus you can spend the money on actually getting it in there and bolt ons and still make good power. RB26 will need to be built up typically. If you want manual with the 2J could add some extra cost to the job, where as the RB might be a little cheapier in that respect. Stock 2J, some cams and T88 for the win.

have you wired the standard FICD valve to turn on with the a/c compressor, its usually switched via the standard ecu. just wire it to switch with the compressor clutch. also if you add some timing in the load cell with rpm just below standard idle, it will help reduce the drop because as the rpm tries to fall, it adds more timing and the torque increases and less drop. going through the ecu via an input is best, but i have done the above with numerous vehicles and the idle doesn't really budge more then 25rpm with the a/c ompressor cycling on idle.

on the side of the gearbox driver side, half way up the box is a filler hole, similar to the drain. with the car perfectly level, remove the filler plug and the level should be flush with the hole so as its just starting to run back out. also fairly sure its a tapered thread, so it will never screw in all the way, you will stuff it trying first...

worst case scenario you will have to drop the oil and use some teflon sealant on the thread of the plug to seal it properly.

you will not clean it properly just with water. buy the kit and do it properly, its $20, not to mentioned there is enough to clean it plenty of times and you will need the oil anyway...

keep that shit for your lawnmower mate run a search, there is about 3million threads regarding oil on this forum.

bit of maintenance goes a long way, what the rest of the car like.....

With the car running you should have 13.8-14.8V at the alternator and battery. If you have only 12V with car running, the alternator is not charging the battery.

is there any vids of this thing ripping a skid or some helis? pictures are boring...

another vote for pissing the mesh off altogether. first thing i do to my afms, never had dramas with any vehicle i have done it on, just better flow.

yeah atf dexron III is specified.

If you can do that, no way in the world is it overtight. I always turn the engine clockwise to take the tension up and you have all the slack on the tensioner side of the belt, and you shouldn't be able to deflect it really much at all, unless you use fair force. (same as what should be done when you install it. But nah, that wouldn't be too tight at all. IMHO

fairly sure you will find a standard rb30 vl commodore gasket will fit the rb20, fairly sure its only rb25 that has the offset bolt on the pump.