RB30-POWER

it only comes on when the water is 96degC then. that is the way its meant to operate, only as a failsafe so to speak if the coolant temp rises out of its standard range, which is between 76.5 and 90degC on RB engines, to aid engine cooling. if your retrofitting the system, it will be an advantage to switch the fan on anytime the ac switch is engaged, it will lower the head pressures and make it more efficient.

most standardish type pumps don't pump against high pressure well, the flow drops down as the pressure goes up. however this is where the bosch motorsport pumps shine, they are rated at high pressure, some models 5 bar pressure. if you have one of these pumps go for it, other pumps i haven't seen specs for, so your more then likely going to have to try it. injectors vary, if you go too high in pressure the injectors can lock up so to speak and not open, if you go way to high in pressure. doubling pressure only increases flow by 40% if that give some idea on the possible gains, if you could go that far in reality... i would happily raise pressure by 10-15psi, but thats it. fuel lines least of your worries if its efi hose. fuel filter will have a very high burst pressure as well, unsure of actual specs for the filters. if you have rb20/26 top feed injectors and they are like 15+ years old don't up the pressure as they will leak from the body. (as they will all do anyway, even with stock pressure) if you have side feed, or new top feed injectors, easily bang 10-15psi extra pressure if you tune to suit, only small flow gain though. on one of my engines i run 45psi under vac, 55psi at 0" vac and boost on top, 20psi on top is 75psi fuel pressure, but have bosch motorsport pump, ohh and brand new almost r34 injectors. standard 15+ year old top feed leaked in 2 days of driving from the body, haha.

No ifs about it, fit a relay and heavy duty wiring to prevent voltage drop to the pump and get maximum flow. Running through the standard FPCM is not going to do any favours IMHO.

If you want to do that, it should start without the AFM, it will just be in limp mode and not rev over 2k rpm and mixtures will be rich.

yeah, you can either fit a guage or get your mechanic to hook up an inline pressure guage/flow tester, just for the measurements. you want to measure two pressures, pressure at idle with the vac hose connected and pressure at idle with the vac hose disconnected. standard pressure will be something like, 32psi with the vac hose connected (20" vac) and should read 40psi with the vac hose disconnected from the reg (0 psi/atmosphere pressure) just set your new reg to the measured pressures and you will be able to use it without remapping the ecu, if you plan to fit it before the ecu. note: pressures are just an estimate used for the above example. if you got a standard 1:1 ratio reg and set it to the same pressures it is of no real benefit of course, its only a benefit if you want to raise your fuel pressure quickly and easily to either rectify spray patterns on get a little more through your injectors, if they are to small. at the end of the day, there is no real need for a fpr if you have correctly sized injectors, but it can sometimes be handy if you get stuck.

1) No you will not need to upgrade the lines. 2) Yes you can just change the pump and retain stock reg. 3) If you want to install the reg, you need to measure current fuel pressure and set the new reg to the same pressure. Otherwise it will overfuel. Once you have the bigger injectors and are going to reprogram it, you could raise or set the pressure as you choose.

It is smaller and will restrict power. (GTR has two!) It will not work/run well unless you remap the ecu to suit the smaller AFM. It will run rich as shite if you just bolted it on. So yeah, throw that idea out the window, if you had any intention of it being an upgrade.

for all those that are asking $850 is the absolute lowest i will go complete or $800 without the handcontroller, which i can easily offload on its own.

being r32, it could be cable binding or the cluster itself. remove the cluster and drive vehicle and see if it rotates smooth and constantly, to try and narrow it down a little. if its ok, get the cluster repaired.

yep all RBs are 76.5degC commence open and fully open at 90degC, they are interchangeable between engines. only one that is different is Rb25 NEO engines, run hotter for lower emissions.

EFI Hose is rated to SAE30R9 standard. So many people flog of normal carby fuel hose SAE30R7 as EFI hose, so be careful. Difference is SAE30R7 working pressure is 50psi and min burst pressure of 250psi. SAE30R9 working pressure is 125psi and min burst pressure of 900psi. You should always buy hose to the SAE rating, not to mention the materials and layers are different between the hoses as well for intended duties.

typically once the brushes wear out, the pump will just stop, but if you hit the tank you can get the brush holder to make contact and get the car running again for a little while. if it was dropping flow, you would check the power supply to the pump for voltage drop and also check the filter/strainer for blockages.

old vid but applicable to this thread

the secret to R.C's method is you need to add the fluid to the filler hole as its pumping out (it pumps out quick, so if you can't keep up turn the engine off, then fill it to catch up to the amount you pumped out then start the car again) you only pump it out of the tranny cooler after you have already drained and refilled the pan though, that way the clean stuff pumps the old stuff out. either way, if your not confident do not attempt this method as running the torque convertor dry can cause damage. the best tip of all to auto tranny life is a massive cooler to try and control the temps that burn the fluid to begin with.

as far as i know you can't change spray pattern, unless of course they are dirty and can be cleaned to rectify the spray pattern fault. otherwise your stuck with what the injectors spray from factory/design. some injectors spray better with more or less fuel pressure, you need to experiment on the bench to know what works best. spray pattern should only make a difference on idle if you run full sequential injection timed to inlet cam opening duration, if you had an ecu that uses non sequential it will make two tenths of stuff all difference becauses its sprayed onto the back on the inlet valve and the hot valve helps it atomoize anyway.

cops use to go off 10% leway with radars because of the manufacturing requirements were around 10%, but now the car makers need to have them like no lower then actual speed but up to 7% over or some crap like that. can't recall the exact adr requirements that pertains to new cars, but its changed a fair bit.

mechanic should have a universal gearbox cap to plug in the end of the box, so he will not lose any.

what air fuel ratio on idle were you running on idle when it was a bit crappy?

The PowerFC is all digital, no mechanical moving parts to wear and get out of calibration like the speedo has. So it by all counts should be the correct reading. (Not to mention the japs could have put the needle on wrong when they wound the speedo back before exporting the car, )

They already run cooler then most new engines on the market or engines running in late models cars. Like fords I6 and ecotechs v6 run around 90-110. RB are at 76-90. Look at the Neo engines, they run hotter again, better emmisions and efficiency. You don't want any cooler then 76deg IMHO.

As far as i knew the standard computer turns it off on WOT anyway, atleast the Z32s do, guessing the RB powered cars would be the same. If you need to turn it off, run more boost because your car musn't have any balls to begin with.

Unless you have a proper sealing cap or spare yoke to go into the box when you remove it your best to drop the oil first for reasons mentioned above already.

add some toluene, then go race it. wouldn't worry about those other pretend additives you buy from kmart. eitherway the standard knock sensing will keep you safe.

wanna be careful with r12a in there a well, being hydrocarbon based its extremely flammable. wanna hope your evaporator never leaks whilst anyone is smoking in the vehicle. sure the performance and head pressures are better, but safety is always a concern when using blended hydrocarbons instead of r134a.

by the way forgot to mention the earth for the water temp is a common earth (ecu pin 30) for throttle position sensor and exhaust temp sensor as well. because its a conversion, if you have done something funny with the exhaust temp sensor wiring like wire it to 12v it might be causing all the problems, because there is no ground for the sensor to go too.