RB30-POWER

disconnect the plug from the sensor, turn the ignition on and measure across the two pins with a multimeter, you have should measure 5V approx. now keeping a good hold on the probes (or use small spade terminals if its easier) wiggle the wiring harness and make sure you always have 5V, if it fluctuates or you dont have 5V you have a broken wire somewhere or ecu is root.

get your injectors flow tested and check your timing.

i've got a direct plugin link ecu for these vehicles in the for sale section, if anyone is interested.

sorry mate, not near melbourne, i'm nsw, but can send it to you no dramas. cheers.

Bump now $950 delivered anywhere in aust.

negot people...

SOLD!

this has grabbed my attention, if stocky can get some pics of the injector before and after it would be great as i don't have any spare side feeds here atm. as for spray pattern, we would only be guessing as to how poor it may or may not be, alot of factory injectors that are single pintle have less then optimal spray patterns anyway, it would need to be tested i guess.

I wouldn't touch it at all period, unless you know what you are doing and have had previous experience porting that type of head. Its just to easy to make it go backwards as already stated. On the topic however, here is a good job http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=64627

make sure you are on level ground as well.

It will run really lean.

just keep the original viscous clutch fan, way more reliable, flows more air. thermos are crap on these apps. your not saving power, as the alternator will be working harder to produce the power to run the fan still, so not sure how it makes car go harder. also the alternators arent big enough to run all these thermos on idle, your lights will dim at lights and the current from the alternator will be used to run the fans instead of charging the battery. there is just no reason to change to unreliable thermo fans, you have wiring to get hot, relays to fail, temp sensors to fail. thermos can cause trouble down the track. (usually when you are in the middle of no where...)

no way in the world. rb30 lifters are half the diameter and taller then rb25 items. either find s/hand ones that are good, or be prepared to get raped by nissan spares. you should always buy a complete head to begin with, as all the little shit adds up so quick.

you usually run the low flowing ones back through the ultra sonic cleaner again to try and balance them out. im unsure how much % tolerance they have from factory...

its the two pin sensor alongside the single wire dash sender. you test it first and compare to specs, don't just replace shit like a dodgy mechanic would do. you can do a search for the specs i have put them up before, but from memory nissans are around 2k ohm @ 20degC water temp and drop to around 0.3k ohm @ 80degC. Just check it changes somewhere near these readings with your multimeter and you will know if its faulty or not. you will need to turn the car off and unplug the connector and measure it with multimeter on ohm/resistance scale obviously.

be careful what you say, dot 5 is not compatible with dot 3/4 fluids. its silicon based and will not mix with dot 3/4 what so ever. its really not recommended at all due to the issues you have unless everything in the brake system is new or flushed properly. dot 5.1 can be used with dot 3/4 however and is great for abs systems. just be careful, as its easy to get confused, as dot rating are not just relating to heat rating....

bump this thread, check this out. http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m35963030 even japs know the 1j 0wnz!

well apparently if you read the current street commodores mag, its says that their testing was flawed in relation to that oil test done a number of months back and they are going to re-do the tests very soon with more applicable tests and results. they said they apologize for the misleading article they published. lol.

why not the r33?, the r33 represents best bang for your buck with good examples as cheap as 12k. r32 gtst has little going for it with the rb20. (r32 gtr different story) r34gtt is nice machine but still up there price wise...

yeah, just get them all flow tested and cleaned if required before installation.

you can just weld it up.

The NEO is obviously the pick, with the better VCT, bigger turbo, bigger rods and solid top end etc... However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET. Otherwise NEO all the way.

same...

1j anyday of the week, just look at old mates cressida, runs 10's on stock 1j. if that isn't testiment to their strength i don't know what is. they really are the 2j's little brother. it's not like you rip an RB engine out to put in a 1j/2j engine, but if its and application where all the fabrication involved will be the same cost, you go 1j/2j anyday of the week.

usually the colour will signify different size injectors, yes. get them flowed alongside the standard injectors to compare if there is any difference, otherwise buy s/hand genuine yellow gtr injectors and save all the hassles. make sure the injectors are low impedence as well, otherwise it might cause trouble or flow differences. so much easier getting standard parts....