RB30-POWER

im guessing the bosskit will have to be dead straight, otherwise it will think your turning, its probably throwing a code after a time period as it knows something is wrong. (can't be constantly going round a corner...)

there is a thread with part no's of the aftermarket tensioner and idler pulleys that you should get from a bearing shop, about $45each. nissan will want a shite load more then that, some ridiculous price last time it was discussed on here, around $150 or so, what a joke... you may get an aftermarket timing belt a little cheaper if you ring around some local parts places. genuine seals are around $17each from nissan or $5 for aftermarket seals from local parts place. (just ask for vl commodore/r31 skyline RB30 seals - they are all the same) ( the two cams and crank/oil pump seal are all the same size, so you need 3x) as for the pump, you have to be careful, some aftermarket pumps have the wide groove on one of the bolt holes which means it will suit any RB engine, but the normal aftermarket pumps for RB20/30 sometimes don't have the wide groove and will not fit the RB25, which has a bolt a little offset, you will need to search here for what aftermarket brands have the groove to suit all RB engines, or go to the shop and have a look at them. (aftermarket pumps can be had for as low as $88) rarely do you need to change the rocker cover gaskets, they have always sealed up good for me on all my engines. they are soft rubber after all. when you do the lower timing seal, the timing gear will be a bitch to remove, all i can say is GOODLUCK. haha... looks like you have all the basics covered.

984 is around 300rwkw 044 is around 400rwkw 040 would be close to 984 in output, so it could be droping at 260rwkw if thats a low reading dyno. best bet is to use a standard pump or the 040 to feed a surge tank and use either single external 044, or twin external 984's. have you had a pressure and flow guage on it to confirm the flow is dropping at max power?, you could have a restrictive ot blocked filter etc...

no, the springs are weak and are meant to pull open on idle and re-circulate. buy proper atmo BOV if thats what you need, otherwise, keep plumb-back and forget the extra cost for no gains.

you will need to swap two injector wires over (might even be able to do it in the software). because the LT12S is full sequential you will have to change them, if you run group injection you will not even have to do that, but lose the benefit of full sequential. look in the powerFC FAQ and its the same injectors you have to swap as you do when you use the Rb25 PowerFC on the RB20. i can look it up if you get stuck, but yes, it will work on the RB20DET with a small wiring mod.

not sure what type of guage the skylines use, but... you either have open circuit on the wires to the sender (plug not in properly on the cluster) or you have short circuit to ground (pinched the wires with a screw or chasis when cluster was bolted back in. have a look, it will be something simple, you can't damage anything with static on those simple needle guages, like you could on electric guages.

I think he meant the pcb inside the AFM, not the sensing element itself. The pins are known to break away from the pcb and cause trouble. You have to pop the top off the AFM to access the PCB assembly.

maybe he wanted a drift machine, no need for front wheels driven then...

coolant temp sensor is what you should be checking out.

as the guys have said, make sure the blades are correct and the wiring, with most thermo's such as davies craig, depending on whether its a push or pull application, you may need to reverse the polarity of the motor as well as the blades. generally though, getting a OEM thermo with a good shroud will work better then those types of fans. (will depend on how much room you have as to what will fit) the factory clutch fan and shroud will work better then anything however, maybe fit original parts back on for reliability.

When you turn the ignition on, do you have a ABS light on? If its ABS you should. Also if you open the bonnet, follow the lines from the brake master cylinder, if the go straight to the brakes you don't have ABS, if they go into the large ABS unit, you have ABS. I would assume all GTT's would have ABS as its more then likely part of the traction control system.

Don't think you will have any dramas, just double check the thrust/throwout bearings are the same as each other, before you re-assemble it all.

I can't really tell from those pics. You may get lucky and its just the o-ring between the injectors and rail. But these type of injectors are notorius for leaking from the body o-ring thats between the plastic and metal body on the injector. If this is the case the only option you will have is to replace it as they are non-servicable. Have a look, if you think the fuel is running down onto the injector, try the o-ring first and see what happens.

cheapest way out is to get another RB20 and dump it straight in. good thing is they are only worth $700-$1000 these days.

it won't, but its a safety issue, you will need to change it asap.

Run the diagnostics on the ecu and it show a code if its running in limp mode. Procedure to do this should be on here if you run a search.

Here is the part no key for you. http://www.stealth316.com/misc/ngk-partnumberkey.pdf

Its not the tail shaft? Sometimes if you don't index the shaft in relation to the diff, it can upset it. It would have been off the same time the box and clutch was out. Maybe try rotating it 180deg, if you still have the problem, its more then likely a clutch issue.

had a fuel pressure and fuel flow guage on it on the dyno? there is no guess work involved in pin pointing the problem, you don't have to try different parts, use the correct tools to begin with and save time, money and engines. if your mechanic is guessing who have a bad mechanic/dyno tuner.

11-14L around town p/100km 8-10L on the freeway. would be considered normal figures.

3 main things it could be if you turn it to the start position and nothing at all happens. - Ignition switch (start position contacts dirty/burnt out) - Auto Inhibitor switch (if its auto) - Starter Motor itself. (Solonoid or brushes)

As topic says i'm chasing a 300ZX manual VG30DETT ecu, if anyone may have one available. Thankyou

Yeah all good apart from the price and buggy software.

If you undo the 4 screws holding it together, you can clean and lube the spring assembly in it and it will be good as new. Just be careful of the gasket when you split the two halves once the screws are removed. Once you have cleaned it and re-assembled, put it in the freezer for 5 mins and make sure you can see through the hole, just to check its working properly.

out of interest do these 040 pumps come with a non-return valve or have to buy that seperate?