RB30-POWER

remove the mesh on all of my hotwire afm. never any problems, just reduced inlet restriction. this includes all sorts of configs, both na, turbo, airbox, pod, rb30e, rb30et, rb30det, rb25det with the mesh removed a little more air gets through unmeasured, so your open loop mixtures are a little leaner, and you get a little more timing when in both open and closed loop. the mesh is a bigger restriction than a standard paper element filter.

GTS Link has, launch control, boost control, closed loop, active knock sensing, laptop or hand control tunable and is map sensor based. Not a bad unit at all.

be careful i think you will find the R33 GTST box will have the larger speedo sender in it. get the electronic sender from the R31 RB30E skyline manual.

a couple of the injectors are back the front and a few other odd things, but because the wolf doesn't use sequential injection it will not matter. you could plug it directly into either engine loom.

The gain in low down torque would still be very minimal in reality. If you want response either get a smaller turbocharger or convert the engine to 3L. Or else you will be out of pocket and still have a laggy mofo of an engine.

Did you see these threads from last week. Slightly different problem to yourself, but you might as well check the air regulator if you are still hunting for the problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=135917&hl= http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=136269&hl=

Only time I have really seen what you describe is when you put an Auto ECU into a manual car. The Auto ecu looks at the neutral position sensor on the gearbox and goes ok, you just put it in gear, lets idle up for the load the auto puts on the engine when in gear. But if you have a manual just because you change out of neutral doesn't mean there is any load on the engine because the clutch is still dipped. The manual ecu doesn't have this extra idle up because it isn't needed. If the ecu is the correct item for the vehicle then maybe the clutch is not releasing properly and putting slight drag on the engine when the gear is engaged, does the clutch release fully when dipped?

It has +12V switched ignition and the ecu provides a earth to turn it on when required.

Has it always done this or just started to play up?

So the RJ version is still a 1:1 rising rate ratio like the standard Sard item is but just with a larger diapragm? GeeTR, the standard Sard will be fine for the job (considering you could get away with a standard item if you wanted) I have the standard Sard one on my car and it works a treat. Once your got a modified fuel system an adjustable reg is definitely the go, it just gives you so much extra flexibility to adjust pressures to suit the application.

The crankcase breathers are plumbed back into the standard intake before the compressor, maybe thats the oil your seeing?

dipstick?

yeah its harmless, except it can contaminate the sensor on the AFM as already stated. if you have it doing that though, you have probably over oiled it to begin with...

example of vehicle with map load sensor (motec), massive cams, massive turbo and individual throttle bodies. look likes it runs fine to me.

unsure if the s13 dash has a built in pullup resistor, if it doesn't you will have to add a pullup resistor to the circuit. the same thing happens when you put the twin cam engines into r31 skylines and vl commodores etc the pullup resistor needs to be 10k ohm in value and needs to go across the tacho out terminal on the ecu and a +12v wire on the ecu as well. on the RB26 ecu they are pins 7 (tacho) pin 49 (+12 from efi relay) once you do this the monster tacho will work, however the 4cylinder tacho in the dash will probably read wrong as its measuring pulses it expects to see for a 4cylinder engine. hope that helps... EDIT: ohh yeah the resistor you will pick up from jaycar or dicksmiths for about 10c!

thats one big mofo of a hill from the description

remove the plugs and put it in neutral if you can't turn the engine by hand easily, something is way off.

disconnect the plug and measure the resistance on the engine when its cold (first thing in morning), water temp will be around 20degC then. then again after driving the car and its up to normal operating temp disconnect it and measure the resistance. operating temp is around 80-90degC. all test with engine off. If you prefer to measure voltage you will need igntion on and the connector plugged on.

Two ways you can check it. Firstly by disconnecting the plug and using a multimeter measure the resistance across the two terminals at the different water temps. Spec is 20deg 2.5k ohm 80deg 0.3k ohm Second way is to measure the voltage between ecu pin 28 and earth at the different water temps. Spec is 20deg 3V 80deg 1V As long as the test results are somewhere close to the spec it isn't faulty. Hope that helps.

It sure can, if it is telling the ecu the engine is cold, it will always be using enrichment that isn't needed. But all these sensors are easily tested for correct operation. You don't just go changing things unless you like wasting money.

Not to mention there could be hairline cracks or fractures in the pistons, valve guides are probably cactus and so on. Not sure what work was done but maybe the cheaper option is to buy a another motor for $1500 and dump it straight in. 24V head work will add up real quick.

sounds like the mechanic stuffed up with the installation. they don't just stuff by themself. i know who should be forking out the rebuild bill, not you... never good to hear stories like this...

yeah, if you remove the air regulator while its hot, it should be closed, if you look through the hole.

Yeah on the RB20/26/30 the above is true. However disconnecting the TPS (MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE SENSOR NOT THROTTLE SWITCH) on the RB25 fixes the AAC valve at a fixed duty cycle (not sure exact % Nissan don't state it) which is where the duty should be at required idle setting. I've done numerous RB25 systems and never had trouble, weird... Check to make sure you don't have a faulty power steer switch/sensor or neutral switch/sensor, make sure the AC and all loads are off or else the system may substitute a higher duty cycle on the AAC solonoid. Forgot to mention make sure the timing is correct or else it will generate extra torque and it will rev higher.

If you can't get it to idle down, you either have a small vac leak on the plenum side or the air regulator is not closing when warm.