RB30-POWER

RB20 idle procedure uses the AAC disconnect. RB25 idle procedure uses the TPS disconnect. Hope that helps.

They should both be completely interchangable. The ignitors are in the coils not the ecu on series 2. The ecu controls the dwell, which will be the same as they are really same size coils. Unsure why you would encounter any trouble what so ever.

what happens in reality, is the cat will usually break apart into pieces that are too large to go out the exhaust, but they block the outlet in the cat, (exhaust pressure pushes the loose bits to the outlet of the cat causing restriction) and your car doesn't make much boost/power due to the restriction and it can't melt further because the exhaust temps dont get high enough, because the vehicle isn't making any power. the above has happened on almost all vehicles i have changed cats on, and they aren't all performance vehicles either.

Hey Guys. Just a quick question for anyone in the know, Do the NA RB25 NEO engines have solid lifters or only the Turbo NEO engines? Curious more then anything really...

ahh, no... it melts and causes a major restriction or blockage in the exhaust system, not what you want.

Might find an answer or two in this thread... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=15420

No dramas at all with those AFR's. What engine management are you running?

Why buy aftermarket, just bolt the standard item back on and it will work as Nissan intended. Spend your money on real performance accesories.

0.5V on idle and up to >4.5V full throttle.

It won't work, to saturate a large coil like those Bosch you need a longer dwell time (charge time) otherwise the spark will be weak, and you will have the same issues. Standard Nissan coils are only going to have like a 1.8-2ms dwell time, those large Bosch will need around 3.5ms to perform properly.

More then likely its just blowby that is getting sucked into the chamber through the PCV valve when you back off. The valve is held closed when there is no manifold vacuum (on boost) and when you back off it gets sucked through and out the exhaust. All sounds normal to me.

try over at www.calaisturbo.com.au

i usually just use a led with 470k resistor on the cars i retro fit engines into. on the rb25, you need to give +12v to one side of the led, and the ecu grounds the other side when it needs to come on. couldn't be any easier, same for the exhaust temp light if you use that.

looks alright to me. the boost is dropping away as you can see, so power is going to drop, get it to hold boost and it might fatten up a bit at the top end, although that may not be too easy if the turbo is starting to drop out of its efficiency range. could be a gazillion reasons why the power is 10kw different to other cars, i wouldn't worry to much.

loss of power, economy. the bigger the gap the better. only reason to reduce the gap is if you have faulty coils you don't want to replace. (band-aid fix) or if you are making massive power and don't have CDI ignition.

very odd, here is a pic of a 98model with normal cas. http://digiads.com.au/carsales/used-cars/U....htm#adPhotoTop

Doesn't mention if its a direct injection engine or not?

Never seen a series 2 with the NEO CAS, got a pic?

If you just drain the pan and filter change, 5L will be enough. If you want to mess around trying to flush the oil cooler and stuff (waste of time, cause more problems with flush agents) you may need more.

If you have the LTX12, it has inbuilt ignitors already so you should use series 1 coils. However if you have the LT12, it doesn't have in built ignitors, so you would either get the Microtech X6 ignition box, or use the standard ignitor pack and use series 1 coils, or just use the Microtech alone to drive the ignitor in Series 2 coils.

they are a light grey colour (wouldn't really call it white myself?)

check for a vacuum leak in the inlet plumbing.

Up until about 2 years ago, when you went to Nissan you got a genuine blue Japanese high quality filter. Now they have a completely different cheap arse filter that is completely different in filtering medium, anti drainback valve, and seal. Its a grey colour not blue. I always used genuine Nissan up until 2 years or so until they turned to crap. I currently use AC Delco oil filters, good filtering medium and filter construction, has a few minor issues, but nothing like some others have.

Stock ecu's need a supply wire +12V from the ignition switch crank position on the ignition switch or starter solonoid so as to enrich for cranking conditions, is it possible you missed hooking up this wire?

The standard plugs from factory are NGK PFR5G-11 for GTT R34. Platinum plugs with a heat rating of "5" under the NGK scale and a gap of 1.0-1.1mm. These engines run a hotter plug then the non NEO RB25 as its a more efficient engine and meets tougher emission level standards. If you aren't making over 250rwkw, then you shouldn't even need to consider reducing the gaps. If the coils have failed repair or replace or else your never going to have the vehicle running correctly, and doing bodge jobs such as plug gaps is no the answer, longterm.