RB30-POWER

Did you change the injectors to turbo items? Sounds like a bodge job conversion, no offense.

I'd rather get the factory item power ported before i got a cheap chinese stainless manifold. Sometimes a custom manifold is beneficial as you can move the turbo, there isn't much room to work with with the standard item and large turbos.

sounds like its missing the memory backup. usually you would say a fuse, however if you checked them it must be a wiring fault. (which would be unusual in a car of this age)

Open it in Microsoft Word.

if you end up splitting? send me pics of the tranny and price. email me at dialup_v90_user@iprimus.com.au

You can start the vehicle and disconnect the cooler lines and run the engine to pump the old fluid out of the convertor just add new fluid as the old crap is pumping out. If in doubt leave it to the pros or just do 3 changes like said above, but 3 changes with synthetic fluid is not cheap. EDIT: If anyone wants to have a quick read of a guide on tranny fluid change this isn't to bad or hard to understand http://www.amsoil.com/lit/EASY%20STEPS%20I...TF%20FLUID2.pdf

Castrol Transmax Z will be ok as its fully synthetic. Castrol say you can use it but specifically cover there ass by put a note alongside the recommendation saying "Manufacturer recommends "Nissan Matic D" fluid, available from Nissan Dealer" Im rather sure matic d is fully synthetic, just look at the price and not many manufactuers of oils, castrol, valvoline etc recommend an alternative they always quote Matic D from Nissan to be used. Anyway, your cars, just trying to give some heads up

When the vehicle is turned off the water thermosyphons around the engine and through the turbo and it removes the heat anyway, one of the primary reasons they are watercooled. If the vehicle has a oil cooled only turbo you have to let it idle down for a short period if your been thrashing otherwise the oil can coke easily, especially minerals, not such a problem with good synthetics these days. As for plain bearing turbo's being unreliable, i don't really agree with that at all, if thats whats being said, plain bearing turbo's have been used for decades without trouble. Yes ballbearing turbo's now offer advantages over the older style though. Sorry, but what was the topic again?, is it that you are saying the new evo's have a oil cooled only turbo? sounds hard to believe?

If you buy the concentrate buy the stuff that has the proper glycol content, It should be marked on the bottle that is has 1036gm glycol p/L. If it isn't that concentrated its watered down (to sell cheap) and makes it harder to mix. (working out the true glycol content you actually have) If you get the concentrated stuff that is 1036gm/L you mix this at ratio of 33% concentrate to 67%water and its correct.

Check your manuals, because most of the electronic JATCO trannies requires Nissan Matic D (high quality synthetic tranny fluid), if you go putting standard mineral Dex 3 etc in your going to do damage for sure. They are very hard on their tranny fluid and its why, even most oil manufacturers say go to Nissan for these vehicles. Also pull the line off the cooler and allow it to pump all the fluid out of the torque convertor if you want to change all the fluid, not just whats in the pan. Close to 4L without torque convertor or around 9 if you do the full flush from memory. Check your manuals for all the specifics.

Sure you could tune it to meet an emmision standard, but what one, one from 10years ago? It wouldn't go anywhere near meeting current emmisions standards for manufactured vehicles. They had to build newer NEO engines for a reason and drop the SR20 altogether. About all you can do is use a good 3way catalyst, set your ecu up for closed loop control to target a 14.7:1 AFR when cruising and enjoy reduced fuel usage and cleaner emmisions during this period when the engine is warm and knowing that your car would pass an emmision test for cars from 1986 that only required closed loop and a cat. Better then not doing anything, but in reality a few modified cars contribute bugger all to greenhouse gas when compared to industry and coal powered power plants.

ok, just to confirm the NEO engines are commence open at 82degC and fullu open at 95degC. so in theory your engine is always meant to run inbetween the thermostat open and full open temps. It can get warmer though on real hot days AC on and stuck in traffic, but you get the idea.

all early rb's are commence open at 76.5degC and full open at 90degC. the R34 GTT RB25 is actually hotter, the thermostat, (all new cars run hotter water temps as it makes the engine more efficient and past emissions) as you know the 25NEO is a low pollution engine. you don't want to change the thermostat, unless you have a valid reason, do you? i can get the exact figure for the NEO engine thermostat to for you, can't remember off hand but is deffinately warmer then the early RB engines. cheers

You can turn the boost down safely, but you can't safely run more boost as you don't know if the mapping is rich, lean, retarted or advanced. Turning down is safe, the ecu uses the air flow meter/map sensor (depends on what system you have) and will reduce the fuel and change timing accordingly. Just don't turn the boost up!

VG30 and R34 NEO have the same rear housing. (stamped OP6) R34 NEO has nylon compressor wheel like the Series 2 R33 has. VG30 uses the alloy wheel same as Series 1 R33. If that clarifies the similarities for you.

yes when you upgrade the injectors the fuel pump and afm will deff need replacing/upgrading.

I said this in another topic but may be of interest in here as well. For the reference also the R34 RB25 Neo injectors are top feed high impedence 370cc.

Unsure if you remember or not but on the High Performance Imports DVD's they did a skyline dyno with different mods on an R34GTT. This engine has higher output compared to R33 model (206kw vs 187kw) On the Croydon Dyno Dynamics Dyno it pulled the following figures. 1. 100% Stock R34 GTT Car 148rwkw (R33 should be less then this power) 2. 3" Turbo Back Exhaust - 158rwkw (stock cat still) 3. Boost increase to 10psi - 181rwkw (remember R34 has bigger turbine housing) 4. FMIC & 13psi boost - 200rwkw 5. GCG Highflow, 14psi boost + PowerFC - 225rwkw (injectors 100% duty no more boost can be added safely) Hope that can bring something to convo as well.

R33 turbo has larger housings, so its usually rated at stage 2 500hp instead of the lower stage 1 highflow that is rated at 450hp. If your going to get a highflow make sure you use an RB25 turbo. (identifiable from the 45v2/45v3 etc on the compressor cover, RB20 turbo are stamped 16V)

maybe because its not a recirculating type.

Can't say i would ever block one of them, not on a hydraulic top end that relies on oil for proper operation. It just doesn't sound right. Oil is the lifeblood of the engine, who want less of it. What spec engine are you building, estimated power, what use, track, drag or strip?

what size exhaust housing has it got?

Sad when this happens, but i would say, the only hope you will get it back now is through ebay in a million pieces.

Can you even get 20W50 in a good synthetic oil? I've only seen 20W50 in cheap minerals oil, good for old XF Falcons and the like. Have a go yourself, you couldnt, f**k up more then your mechanic already has. Didn't even do as you asked.

Yeah on my EMS changing from 360injection to 720injection (once per cycle) made the afr alot more stable/controlable on idle. Infact they specifically suggest this mode with any injectors bigger the standard. Trying to control very small pulsewidths on idle is not something you can do easily when its injecting twice per cycle (effectively having to half pulsewidth of that when in 720 mode. As for sequential i run simple batch injection getting the fuel sprayed on the back of the valve to help atomization and don't have any issues at all with driveability. In fact with single pintle injectors like GTR etc i would suggest it, as the spray pattern is not real good or atomized when compared with say R33 GTST injectors have have a 4 outlet disc injector or the like of the new 380 Mitsubishi that has 12 outlet injector, ideal for true sequential operation.