RB30-POWER

I wouldn't ever consider trying to tune any engine with a handcontroller alone. It so much easier having the entire map infront of you on the laptop, so you can see the relationships of the values in the cells your tuning. Not to mention all the real time data! Just buy the Datalogit software and tune away, i consider this to be part of the mandatory PowerFC package if you want to tune it yourself. Thats why when you evaluate the PowerFC price to other ecu's you must add the extra few hundred dollars onto the price for the software to get a real picture.

5psi until 4500rpm then 7psi. there is a modification guide on here of how to keep it at 7psi all the time, by grounding the boost control solonoid wire.

Its a T3 flange, yes.

correct.

R34 is 206kw R33 is 187kw. R34 Rb25DET has *larger intercooler, *solid lifters like GTR, *different cam profiles, *constantly adjustable variable valve timing on inlet (not just advance or retard 10deg like R33 RB25, R34 can vary it up to 40 odd degress and anywhere in between) *traction control *larger turbine housing on turbo (otherwise same as series 2 R33 turbo) *larger top feed injectors (instead of side feed) can't think of what else is different at the moment?

Get a 320i, 2 litre six with vanos, it's a very smooth motor and loves to rev. Doesn't have the balls of a turbo RB25/RB30. But you will be way more happy then the 318 4cylinder POS. One thing to watch is that the oil on the dipstick and the valve gear (can be seen with oil cap off) isn't burnt. Being high output engines they require very good oil of the correct grade. (0W-30 on most late models) Probably the best thing to look for in the way of maintenance history.

yeah stuff trying to launch a manual without a good two-step. microtech actually does this preety good, it has a full two-step map, you set the rpm limit (ign cut), add more fuel, retard timing and presto, you are launching on boost with your manual without a complicated antilag setup. better then the basic ecu two-step setups that only do a ignition or fuel limit cut. how does the pro software models do the two-step, any idea how good it is?

yes they are interchangable.

If you have it running more then stock boost then its probably hitting the ignition cut and rich fuel zones, otherwise known on here as "rich and retard mode". Solution is to run standard boost or get a PowerFC or Apexi SAFC system to overide the AFM signal. You can't just boost these cars up like people did with late 80's jap imports as the ecu has protection built in.

If its a single wire its more then likely a seatbelt warning lamp sensor. If its a twin wire purple/yellow colour connector its the seat belt pre-tensioner that works with the air bag system and shouldn't ever be touched.

The new Link Plus G2 will offer best bang for your buck ecu if you prefer map sensed option. Also it has twin active knock sensing function. (fully configurable) Support for wideband, logging, sequential injection/spark, so many inputs and outputs its not funny. Check it out for sure. http://www.linkecu.com/

The RB26 PowerFC doesn't take advantage of the second O2 sensor on the RB26 does it?

RB25 Series 1 uses 4 wires (extra earth) RB25 Series 2 uses 3 wires (only single earth) Both are interchangeable and compatible if you change the plug to suit the AFM you use.

"Rich and Retard" is simply the higher air flow/load cells having no ignition timing in them, and the fuel cells at this load are rich. That is why it cuts, no timing in those load cells. If you could remap the ecu to put some extra ignition timing in those load cells, you wouldn't have a rich and retard situation. The TI monitor is more then likely a signal for a trip computer to calculate show current fuel usage. Also the lack of the throttle switch input, will not matter as the RB25 PowerFC uses the throttle position sensor, not switch. (So it won't matter that its not there.) From what you have found Cubes, all you have to do is reverse pins 112 & 114 and cut 57 to be safe. (I doubt this pin is connected in the PowerFC though?)

There has been different revisions to the PowerFC though, hasn't there? Maybe the boards have been changed.

Well they typically say closer to the throttle body the better. However i really don't think it would matter a hell of alot. One functional problem i see having the BOV's before the IC (hot side) is if there is any pressure drop across the cooler, then the vacuum line that is plumbed to the back of the BOV diaphram will have less boost pressure from the plenum and may cause the BOV to open/leak. The BOV relies on equal pressure on each side of the diaphram to keep it closed under boost. EG, 6psi in plenum and 6psi in pipework just before throttlebody will keep it closed. If you have a pressure drop of say 2psi across the cooler, you will have 6psi in the plenum but 8psi in the pipework (hot side), causing the BOV to potentially open, because the pressure isn't equal on each side of the BOV diaphram. It will work if you don't have any pressure drop across the core or you have the springs real tight on the BOV. (Defeats BOV purpose then though) Just something i though i would mention, alot of people sometimes miss the little things that can cause gremlins down the track.

With K&N filters they rely on some dirt to help aid filtering, but without effecting flow levels. So making it really clean again will mean more particles going into the engine. I don't know how dirty it is, from those pics, just be-aware that some dirt is required to get them to filter well. (Its all stated on the back of the boxes) I hate when people do a filter test for filtration levels and they use a brand new filter and and say K&N doesn't filter as well as other filters. Yet they don't realise or state K&N specify some dirt helps it filter properly, hence not needing to be cleaned for up to 100k km in some cases.

Is that a K&N filter?

There is going to be alot more volume of air in the pipework at higher power levels then standard. Having both is going to allow alot more air to be bypassed back to the front of the turbos because only one is probably going to be to restrictive especially when you snap the throttle closed on big boost and still cause some reversion through the AFM and turbo's. Did Nissan put two on for no reason, just to waste some money? Im not trying to be smart, just asking?

If the factory GTR needed two BOV with only 206kw @ fly (bit more in reality, i know ) Surely a car that has close to 300kw at the tyres is going to benefit from having both.

7150rpm puts the RB30 piston speed at around 4000ft/min, which is around the most you would want to push a standard production motor too. (Without a full prep, balanced, lightened internals etc to the engine) Sure you can go more, but the 4000ft/min is considered a practical safe standard limit!

Yeah, if you can get an aftermarket pump with the elongated hole it will suit both the RB25 and RB30. Otherwise you will have to leave a bolt out, if you try and interchange them. Something you don't really want to do.

Wouldn't be stuffed if the pressure plate had a higher clamp force to begin with to prevent so much slip.

VL Commodore and R31 use Titania 02 sensors that have the smaller thread size, have you looked into them at all? Titaniam sensors are smaller due to their design. They are actually not a self generating sensor like the zirconum type, but a voltage reference sensor. What this means is that instead of self generating a 0-1V output, it uses a resistor that changes resistance with the air/fuel ratio to give a 0-1V output. It uses the power from the heater 12v supply. You can interchange them as them as they both give a 0-1V output. The only thing to note is that all Zirconia type sensors are the larger 18mm thread and Titania types are typically the smaller thread. I have in the past, removed the bung from the exhaust manifold/dump pipe with the smaller thread for titania sensor and got a bung from like R33 dumps that have the 18mm bung and used the cheaper Zirconia type sensors on RB30 engines that originally used the Titania type sensor. Do the GTR dumps have a large 24mm bung that is screwed into the dumps with the O2 sensor hole inside the bung? If so the bungs just unscrew.

If the GTR uses normal Zirconia type Oxygen Sensors (like the RB20/25), which im sure they would, then just buy a universal sensor with 18x1.5mm thread (standard O2 sensor thread) and you cut the connector and wire from the old sensor and crimp it onto the new universal sensor. (it will come with the crimp terminals and everything) Universal sensors are around $40 - $80 at most. You can't solder Oxygen sensor wiring as its stainless. (Thats why they supply crimp connectors with the sensor)