RB30-POWER

Unsure how you can modify it when you have a massive VCT cam gear on the RB25 inlet to get around. Never seen a 25 clear cover myself, not to say they don't exist though...

Should pick up some power again once its replaced and there is no blockage.

this is a little off topic, however... remember that fastest GTR in the UK as tested by jeremy clarkson in one of his car movies (cant remember which one). 1000hp yellow thing it was R33 built in Japan. the car had a water temp guage for the front, middle, and back of the engine, (3 guages total) plus extensive coolant system mods, id be guessing. so some engine tuners must take the coolant issue fairly seriously. animal of a car too

Could be part of the catalytic convertor honey comb that has collapsed and broken off.

agreed completely. you don't want to paint it a different colour, it just looks ricey and tacky at the end of the day. it ain't no old holden red or blue motor, dont make it look like one!

maybe we look at the wrong side of motor. maybe the exhaust side is the issue, maybe #6 has better cylinder scavenging and actually runs leaner because of that. more of the burnt air that exits, means more fresh air into the chamber, more air and the same quantity of fuel = leaner, compared with cylinders that don't scavenge as well. do equal length turbo extractor engines still have this issue, all only stock manifold engines? just trying to add to the conversation...

so does the djet use the rb26 air temp sensor for injection correction though? the density of the air is going to change a fair bit with temp.

haha, so was there a question anywhere in that or were you just having a general ramble?

not entirely answering your question but I have read that a GTR will never acheive a 50/50 split, even though it may show it on the guage, the front will always slip some compared to the rear.

The PowerFC is a complete replacement ecu. If you remove the passenger kick panel you should see immediately if it is actually a PowerFc installed in the car. To fix the cold start values, you will either need to get a hold of someone with a hand controller or the datalogit laptop software to change the values. It sounds to lean on cold start if its stalling. Its rather simple to change the values if you know what you are doing, so a workshop that does imports or tuning should be able to help you out easily. A search for PowerFC should bring up the FAQ for them and im sure had suggested values in there for better cold start.

Only because there is like two workshops in Aus that can tune them.

A street tyre will give maximum traction at standard working pressure. They are not slicks, dont try and let them down as your performance will suffer along with tyre life.

Also you cold start enrichment values may need to be increased in value as well. Has it always done it or just started to play up?

Its got a HKS FCON V ecu. Was mentioned in the first post

Have you pulled the plug and coil out and actually checked for spark whilst its running? Have you compression checked the cylinder? Have you connected a noid/led test light to check for injector pulse? If its all sweet, my guess is a plugged injector and will need replacement. (rare problem though and im sure you will find the fault before you get to this stage)

Give it a general tune up first. New plugs, new O2 sensor, check timing, clean injectors, fit a new air filter element into the airbox. (piss of pod filter if you have one). Check that the water temp sensor is reading/working correctly as this is used for cold start enrichment. And see how you go.

Is it going to be better then the Porsche 911 Turbo that is available now for 340K AU$ Similar specs if what you guys are saying is true. 3.6L Turbo 330+ kw etc 4wd driveline, except the Porsche has variable housing geometry, 650NM from 1500-6000rpm.

yeah im with the leaking or blown exhaust gasket theory.

It sounds like your building a bit of an animal and cost comes second. If you want the best, get a Motec ecu that is suitable for your engine. http://www.motec.com/ Sure you pay a little more for them, but you are getting the best, used in all kinds of world motorsport engines.

so whats mods is it tuned for, how much power was the engine making on how much boost? some questions buyers will want to know, no doubt.

Only 4 are used. 5th pin does nothing.

Its about an extra inch on the deck height, so everything there up will sit 1" higher then it currently does.

The RB25 with better flowing 4 valve cylinder head and high static compression ratio of 9.0:1 makes up for the 500cc it lacks compared to a factory RB30ET, which is only 2 valve and a 7.8:1 static compression ratio. Either bolt in a complete RB25DET or throw an RB25 cylinder head onto a wrecker RB30 and enjoy the torque wave! Should be able to easily do both for $3K if you are handy with the tools.

you haven't specified what model stato, if its the older 5L model, because of they way they sit, they can get water and oil running into the connection (even though they have a rubber insulator) and cause bad connection and carode etc. worth a look before you jump the gun and replace it altogether.

Are you running more then standard boost on the standard ecu?