RB30-POWER

A standard timing belt change, should also include changing of the tensioner and idler pullies. Also the two camshaft seals and front crank seal should be changed as well. (If you buy a timing belt kit, all of the above would be included, not that you can probally get a kit for 25, but any other local engine for eg) Water pump is always a wise idea as well on RB engines. They can last a very long time, but they can also leak unexpectantly, so if you can't easily change the part in the future yourself or don't have the $ to pay for labour twice, get it all done at once. If you don't do the seals regularly they harden up and have the potential to leak, but more so they wear a groove into the crank/cam and in the future if it wears enough, a new seal won't stop the leak, you will have to use a speedy sleeve over the shaft.

Yes, the sump will need to come off, and clean both the sump and block mating surfaces if they still have parts of the factory sealant or oil contamination. You can either by the original sealant from Nissan, or just go to any parts store and purchase a suitable gasket sealant maker. Its vital that the two parts have a good complete seal.

My brothers R31 has silver, alfoil type sleeve over the lines that run up past the exhaust manifold. Don't think it would be standard factory fitment, but it may have been, anyone clarify? Protecting them from the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold is a worthwhile proposition. Its not going to effect ac performance a great deal, but it will extend the physical life of the rubber hoses.

Good thing with an auto is you can get away with rather large turbos as you can use the correct size stall converter to mask the torque hole down low.

Its not exactly rocket science, i don't know how so many people f**k up...

Wouldn't the pistons be cactus if they bent all the valves? Surely they would be fatigued and possible hairline cracks etc

reliability and cost.

I wasn't under the impression the guy was looking to upgrade, more so just replace a faulty AFM with another he had lieing around.

No need to remap, they both have the same 0-5V output per same gm/air sec entering engine. Re-wire to suit and its apples You only need to remap if you change to a Z32/Q45 AFM as these read less Volts per gm/air entering engine.

Unless your prepared or know how to change the plug/connector, then no, they aren't directly compatible. RB25 Series 2 has a 3 pin plug, whilst RB25 Series 1/RB20 AFM has a 4 pin plug. (extra earth)

everyone will have something different to say/recommend. as long as you are running 98ron of some sort, your fairly safe. personally, i recommend Ultimate though...

Not convincing win for GTR M5 was drifting blocking 3 cars and the GTR went up the outside.

all the clearances were ok for the pistons when assembled? was it run in for a substantial time on mineral run in oil after the build?

Yeah if your careful, you can suck small amount of water in with manifold vacuum (use a few revs for a while) and it will clean the pistons more then you would think it would. Otherwise get something like suburu upper cylinder cleaner, designed specifically for this purpose (highly recommended by many people) and works better then water alone.

Thats alot of carbon for low 11's, just under high load. How is the cruise mixtures around 14.7:1 or rich as well? Im no expert by any means, but to get carbon like that, it would take more then just running a bit rich under boost. It would have to be running rich every where.

Have you checked for voltage at the plug that goes into the tank? If you have voltage here, your pump is more then likely the culprit. If you don't have voltage here then, the fuel pump control module is probally cactus (never heard one failing before though). I think its under the rear seat. (It regulates the pump voltage to keep it quiet on idle) You should really be bypassing the fuel pump control module anyway (run seperate relay) as the O44 will give alot more fuel without the associated voltage drop through the module.

haha, how much carbon can you get onto the piston. tune it a little leaner, or else the carbon will get hot, glow and cause pre-ignition from the hot spots. and then bye bye motor. when you re-asemble are you going to rehone and use new rings or does it all just go back together again as is?

160kw at the engine. Probally see around 120 at the wheels in a manual vehicle.

The Mines machine runs airbox. Surely no one can argue with that.

work on either mate. its just an interceptor, so its compatible with many vehicles.

Have you changed the ignitor box yet? The transistor for #6 is probally cactus...

Capable unit, but limited tuners with software in Aus. Best bet is to bin it and get PowerFC.

Don't use the VL rail. Buy a custom rail to suit the RB25 and save any hassles. http://www.injectorsonline.com/

That ignition cut is the ecu, wind the boost down to standard or buy a PowerFc. Performance always comes at a cost.

All BB turbo's require a restrictor of some sort. Or else the turbo will get to much oil and blow seals etc. The restrictor is usually in the banjo fitting on the oil lines running to each turbo. Hope thats what you are asking.