RB30-POWER

haha, well your read both sides. you just need to decide what side you want to sit on. to use or not use is the question..... best of luck. (im to povo to have leather, velour trim if im lucky )

Sounds like you are one of the only Skyline owners that doesn't have a wound back speedo. (Or you do a shitload of driving) Should be doing much the same as 100k. Timing Belt, Belt tensioner, Belt idler pulley, Water pump (crazy not to do this at the same time, whilst everything is off) as well as the camshaft oil seals and oil pump seal. (same as cam seals) What ever else hasnt been changed in a while. Power Steer Fluid, Diff Oil, Gearbox Oil, Engine Oil, Engine Oil Filter, Brake Fluid & Coolant. I don't know what your service schedule and intervals are, but anything that hasn't been done in a while just do it. Its cheap insurance.

Depending on the design as to what you can do to remove. The first thing you usually do in this situation is go to supercheap get a 18mm socket, hammer it onto the locknut and undo it as per normal. If that doesn't work, you can try anything from welding a nut on to cold chisels to try and split the nut.

around $39 last time i got one. just ask for R31 skyline item. (they are the same at 76.5deg open) otherwise they will charge more as soon as you mention import. thats all genuine Nissan im talking, don't waste time with aftermarket jobs, they can be more expensive and perform poorly.

-20vac for standard camshafts on idle.

You can always have a go at the road tune, and if you are unsure or want to improve the results get it thrown on the dyno to fine tune it. Save some dollars that way.

No problem mate

got pics of the rear housing and wheels at all?

You could use ballast resistors to raise the impedence to work with your ecu?

Does it come with the loom that plugs into the ecu, i guess it would as its probally piggybacked onto the r33 loom? If its all there, as soon as its out, shoot me a pm and ill take it, if you want to ship/post it to me. Cheers Mick

A good tuner will usually tune for maximum torque at every load point on the ecu map. No single AFR value or ignition timing value will determine this. Some load points might make max torque with less fuel and less timing, some might be better with more fuel and more timing and vice versa. You need a dyno to really determine if your making more power/torque. On the road your only guessing really, whats what.

You will not get a better ecu anywhere in the world. Motec is the best. http://motec.com.au/ You will need to make sure your budget extends this far though. You get what you pay for though.

Correct plug for this engine is NGK BCPR6ES-11 -11, denoting a 1.1mm gap as standard, which is correct for NA and Turbo RB30's.

Yeah, if the AFM is stuffed, it will not rev over 2500rpm (cuts fuel). Plus it will be running limp home maps which are really rich, because it can't detect actual airflow due to the afm not working, so it will run like a bag of shit. A quick check that will confirm this 100% is running the diagnostic mode to show fault codes on the engine warning light.

Yes, you will need a Nissan or other dealer with a Nissan Consult compatible scan tool to clear the fault codes for the airbag system. That will only work if you haven't fried your srs/airbag control module. It should take 5mins to plug the tool in and clear it, so it won't cost much.

haha, same, what i wanted to see....

If you unplug the ignition module only, you will still get raw fuel dumped into the cylinders, fouling plugs, and raw fuel damages the cat convertor. Yes cranking with new thick oil is all that is needed, to get it circulating

yeah, you attach the resistor across the tach signal output to +12V, but this is only ok if the guage uses 12V square wave. If it uses a 5V or 8V square wave your stuffed i think.

What value pull-up resistor are you using? Or it internal in the cluster itself?

its known as "snake oil" and if you put it near your car your crazy. run a search on ptfe or teflon additives through google, then tell me you want to put it near your car. if it was good, don't you think oil companies and car manufacturers would use it in the first place... Infact save you the time. Read this article, tells you all you would ever need to know about ptfe. http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/additive.htm

Resisdual fuel pressure in the lines will possibly allow the car to start for a few sec, if you remove the pump fuse only. Best method is disconnect the CAS plug. Its easy to get too, and is the best method because the motor will crank but with no spark or fuel.

If you don't mind an AFM, go with the PowerFC. For the $, its better then every other ecu in its class for your car.

easy way to tell, because they both feel like steel. is S2 is black and S1 is silver, due to the different materials.

R31 is to tall for R32 cars. So no good.

Its 5 psi mate. The standard boost on an RB25 is 5psi, until it reaches 4500rpm when the boost solonoid bleeds air to reach 7psi. If it was 7psi, how would the RB25 have two stage boost? You cant run boost lower then the wastegate spring tension. Besides i put one onto an RB30DET i built with both a RB25DET and VG30DET turbo and when the wastegate actuator is plumbed straight to vacuum/boost source it hold exactly 5psi.