RB30-POWER

Yeah don't be alarmed people its not your connections, its the forums/server that is the problem.

Why did they change to the lighter nylon type wheel on the S2 and R34 turbo's then? Not having a dig at all, just curious?

A guy over at performanceforums has a 450rwkw toyota crown GT42 i think maybe bigger. (Lifting the head of the block at the moment) (Stock standard engine too) And he is running a single 044. So for your application on a 700hp turbo, it should do easy. The 044 is a mother of a pump, that some people underate.

Very simple to do. Remove door trim, unplug the motor harness from the car harness. Connect a 12V supply voltage and the window should go up or down. (depending on which way you connect the wires). If this allows the window to go up and down at full speed, you know the motor is fine and you have a wiring or switch fault. 9 times out of 10, its a broken wire/wires in the door jamb, because the doors open and close all the time, the wires do eventually break.

I don't think you can, as the CAS is just ref/sync pulses for the ecu to decode for crank position and RPM. I don't see how the ecu tacho out pin function could be faulty myself. However if you want to make an alternate output, because its a multicoil motor, you have to use a circuit like this. http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/RevCounterCircuit.pdf Hope that helps.

Its all normal guys. The discs will never run 100% true and will grab a bit on the pads. The front wheels will be the same too.

There was a thread with this asked a while back. I uploaded a Zoom article where they tested 20+ octane boosters, only one allowed any extra ignition timing. Might need to run a search if you want to find the article. Basically they do bugger all and are a waste of money.

RB25 actuator is 5psi RB20 actuator is 10psi

And if your not sure, take it to a mechanic. If you end up with valves in your pistons you won't be happy.

standard is just 1:1 ratio like standard (except should be a little more accurate and linear and rise to a higher boost pressure) rj must be a higher rising rate ratio? they don't tell you much useful into really, just talk about power, which has got nothing to do with the fuel system components, lol. just get the standard item if your injectors are large enough to support the power you want, will be less hassle and more stable that way when tuning.

why would you waste money on an aftermarket BOV, when the factory item works as well?

I always tap a 6mm thread and screw the end of a 6mm bolt into it with some loctite for safety. Works a treat, everytime. Gasket/Paper will never last.

I would be checking that the AFM is getting a nice constant supply voltage. I would check that with the airflow meter disconnected that it reads low volts <1V and sits constant until i blew through it to jump it to >2V. (Need bench power supply connected of course) I would disconnect the harness and measure resistance/check continuity through the signal wires to the AFM. (make sure there is not bad connections or piggyback devices hidden in the system) I would do the wiggle test over all connections. I would subtitute a 0-5V supply through the signal wire and check with a suitable consult/scan tool, that the reading did not fluctuate on the scantool hooked to the ECU itself. All whilst measuring the actual voltages at the ecu end with a multimeter to see what was actually going on. Well thats what i would do, coming from an auto elec. Sorry if none of it makes sense, but if your tuner does not do the above, he will never know or rule shit out. Shouldn't be to hard to sus it out, if he cant take it to someone else.

rb25 actuator is 5psi actually. the rb25 has a ecu controlled boost control solonoid that bleeds air to reach 7psi. wizard2k (Josh) on here put an RB25 turbo onto his car, no real difference in spool at all, just the RB25 turbo pulls a little harder. so you have must have a problem somewhere.

If they are both plumbed into plenum, no t-pieces etc to BOV, fuel reg etc. and are giving different readings, I would say the guages, well more so, one of the guages is reading wrong. To confirm, swap the vacuum plumbing points over between the two guages (if you have enough length) and see if there is a difference still in the readings.

I doubt Mines would sell the real car for any price, atleast not in the trim that it cuts sick laps times in. Surely the development and yen invested would be more to them, then just selling their full developed product to anybody to copy or immitate?

mmm, big mac..... ohh, petrol.

Performance car and normal fuel? Thats crazy, skyline needs all the octane it can get.

They are rubber seals, you shouldn't need any sealant. Are you sure it flat on the head surface, no wires jambed under there at all, holding it up?

The RB25 turbo is really a very mild upgrade. If you want real balls from your RB20, get something larger in size again.

A VL turbo clutch will not fit, its larger. As i said in this thread of yours already. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=101090&hl=

Thread on here shows how to convert to AU Falcon Waste Spark Coils with RB20 ignitor. Might be the go?

VL turbo runs a bigger clutch/flywheel then the skylines. 10" against 9.5" So if its a legit turbo clutch, no it won't fit.

:owned:

:lol: haha, i thought the same. Check out the ISLEEP Custom Plenum Creation plenum, read the Greedy ones arent the best for even cylinder filling and performance in general.