RB30-POWER

maybe spool time? much $ difference between the T04Z and GT42?

Yeah, but i meant if its used in engines that are full of crud, for eg. engines that have done 100,000km without an oil change you run the risk of it dislodging stuff and blocking galleries. If your engine is not in this condition, why would you even consider using a flush treatment? It goes back to what Neil said earlier, if you run it in an engine that doesn't have excess buildup, it can still potentially clean the smaller carbon buildup on pistons walls etc, that help with combustion cylinder sealing.

Has the vid got any action or just cruising? Don't wish to do 80mb download at 14k/sec (link is slow) if its boring.

Shock sensor for Alarm

as always start with an inspection for vacuum leaks. don't have an atmo BOV do you?

Fairlysure you have to use a lithium grease too on suspension bushes. In order not to damage the rubber/poly.

As if the RB30 is going to blow up

Its not really relevant, he said he doesn't want a turbo vehicle as insurance premiums are to high at his age. So who cares what a R32 GTST is worth. Nice car mate. Will serve you well im sure.

If the light load map cell figures aren't really closely tuned to 14.7:1, closed loop won't be able to alter the pulsewidth enough to acheive stoich ratio's. Disable closed loop, tune all the light load cells in the map as close to 14.7:1 AFR as you can, then turn closed loop back on and presto. Its just that closed loop operation can only alter the base map/cell pulsewidth value by something like + or - 5% Either way how to do you know that it isn't in closed loop, do you have an air/fuel ratio guage that you can see not going back and forth?

GT42 should get that figure at the wheels.

Better then a full venting BOV, however not as good as a full plumb back type. i.e factory valve. Anytime air is measured by the airflow meter and doesn't go to the engine it will cause richness. Potentially damaging the cat rather quickly and blocking the exhaust, as well as general running problems. However it sounds like you have made up your mind already, might as well put it on and find out what problems arise.

If you look at the wiring diagram, you can see that the switched ignition supply goes straight to the injectors, coil as well as the ecu power relay etc. Something is allowing power to run through the ignition to all the above hardware. Nothing will be sticking that will cause this. Remove your turbotimer wiring for starters and i would be suprised if this problem does not go away.

Provided the oil is changed at the correct intervals there will never ever be buildup in the engine in the first place. Some people are just paranoid about maintenance and cause problems trying to rectify faults that never existed in the first place.

Well in one of my old RB powered cars, when i purchased it, it would never go above the cold mark, used lots of fuel and generally ran average. When i removed the thermostat it was an aftermarket job, that due to the poor designed actually got stuck open. Even in traffic it would never really go above cold. I don't advise no thermostat at all it will cause major wear and tear. The other thing is as well, no thermostat generally means that the water can pass through the radiator too quickly and it can't remove the heat as it doesn't have time and it can overheat at the other end of the scale. Too Cold or Too Hot. Thermostat is a critical piece of the puzzle for sure....

If its showing 7 on the factory guage, it means its running over 14psi as the factory guage uses different units to psi. The only way it can run more then standard boost is if the wastegate actuator has been changed, its stuck partially closed, or it has a bleed hole or split in the hose between wastegate actuator and the turbo compressor cover. Check that first.

Standard Thermostat is Commence Open 76.5degC Full Open 90degC What is the full specs on the Nismo item, any idea?

Sounds like you have the basics covered really. Only other things i can think of is, most big power GTR have modified cooling and oiling systems. Not to sure if the average person will know whats involved or wether its more top secret with what different people do with the above systems to prevent issues. What sort of sump and oil coolers is it running, standard? Might be worth considering if its more then a dyno queen

Organic plate with upgraded pressure plate will work fine if all you have is a stock neo with a little more boost then standard. Or is it highly modified? How much power are we talking?

You gotta love the drift vid. All the smaller engine cars go around, making a little smoke. (Did someone say no torque ) The RB30DET powered R31 car goes around, absolutely shredding the tyres with f**kloads of smoke.

Using flush additives your likely to loosen crud and get it stuck in oil galleries etc. Just use a good quality synthetic oil, change it at the recommended intervals and overtime it will become cleaner from the extra detergents in synthetic oils.

bcpr6es (0.8mm gap) bcpr6es-11 (1.1mm gap) I run the -11 version in all my RB's with over 200rwkw without any spark issues what so ever. If your coils are sus though, maybe take the 0.8mm gap plugs.

Iridium should be like 80,000-100,000 Thats why you pay so much, because they are designed to last longer. A standard copper plug will do 40,000 easy...

If you don't mind me asking are you still running 10psi or more now? Whats the rev limit set at? Sounds Great!

gets into the burnouts doesn't he...

Thats what i was thinking...