RB30-POWER

Thats the beauty isn't it. Can change them as often as you want, they are only a few bucks each I can understand iridium/platinum in motors such as the V6 in the magna that you have to actually remove the intake runners etc to change and replace gaskets etc in the process. However RB20/25/26 are one of the easiest motors to change plugs on.

Don't know hey, but they tell me they were not detuned at all for aussie conditions last time i asked on here.

This was asked a few days ago. Coppers will do easy 40k, well before you should have any trouble due to the gap being larger then when first installed from the wear.

the only thing that will be hurt is your pocket! spending big money on plugs that arent needed. bcp coppers anyday of the week for me

Well now the problem lies. You have to find out why it goes flat so quickly. Is it just old and shagged? Is there something draining the battery when the car is off? Is the alternator charging the battery properly? All easy to check if your in the know. If the battery is a few years maybe just replace it and see how you go. Otherwise. If you think its not that old, go to an auto elec or battery place, get them to check for drains on the battery. (Just disconnect the earth cable, insert a multimeter set to Amps and measure drain) And check if the alternator is charging properly. (Alternator is easy to check really, check yourself, with the car on idle it should be between 13.6-14.7V with no loads turned on, like lights etc.) Also they could load test the battery before you replace it, they will remove the filler caps and if a cell or cells bubble, it indicates a bad cell. That will cause poor performance from the battery. They will also measure the voltage whilst under a set load as well.

Reading surface voltage on batteries is next to useless. Unless you measure the voltage under a load you can't really tell shit.

Well the answer is simple. When this happened, did you have to jump the vehicle to get it started or did it just start after a few goes? If you had to jump start the vehicle, it will be the battery being flat/discharged. And the clicking you hear is the pull in winding on the starter disconnecting because their is not enough current to hold it in, because the battery is flat. If it started after a few goes, it may just be a sticky solonoid on the starter.

Walk away if money is owing, or you may get the car repossed. Unless its a bargain and you want to get it all cleared off and stuff around with it before purchase. He is lucky he did the search.

you beleived wrong mate.

Engine hot/cold will effect readings and also cranking speed, connect a booster battery whilst testing for accurate results. And lastly make sure its a WOT when testing.

Microtech does not use O2 sensor as it does not have closed loop function. You can hook it up for display purposes only. Unless you finely tune every load point/cell on the microtech you will have bad economy because of the lack of closed loop on this ecu. Its the biggest downside of Microtech and why most people avoid them like the plague.

even better.

You will need to use orange bulbs or else its a defect. But if your removing park lights, it will be a defect anyway. When you get a rego check done, they will probally fail your car if its missing lights such as parkers. So be warned...

The exhaust note from an RB should be music to their ears, what are they complaining about Just sound like serial winges to me, as long as they don't get video evidence of you speeding, your safe. Maybe they want to be on ACA? You really need to ask yourself, who in your street knows what a wastegate is? maybe their kids told them what the noise is or maybe they would just know, most people in my street wouldn't know what a wastegate was. Most mechanics probally wouldn't know. Try and narrow it down and go and knock on their door for a polite chat.

The top end will take the high rpm all day. But the bottom end is still standard production motor quality and piston speed should be kept under 4000ft/min. Unless you have a fully balanced and light weight bottom end components don't rev it above standard rev limiter. Standard cams won't make power up at those levels anyway typically, so why rev it.

What the others have said If you associate a POD sucking hot underbonnet air with performance you have NFI Panel or boxed pod both with CAI all the way.

Yeah your right. But with regards to the original question, i was under the impression he wanted to run more boost then what he had, which would require someway of the ecu knowing that the extra boost is being run.

Carby/throttle body cleaner. Buy it in a spray can from any auto shop.

What about the guy this week that came into work, wanted his car ac regassed and it didn't even have ac installed, ROFL?

give a bit of kero a go, fairly safe for the paint, in the scheme of things.

Im with R31 on this one, vacuum leak in the plumbing somewhere.

Why not consider the extra map sensor plugin harness for the emanage. It will read boost pressure off the map sensor once the afm maxes out. Just a thought.

It all goes through the combination switch on Nissans. No Relays. Thats why you have so many contacts on the combination switches and the reason they fail all the time. As soon as the contacts get dirty, causes high resistance, then it gets hot and melts the plastic. Nissan skylines, navaras, patrols etc are all the same.

Been plenty of threads on here about fitting them. Has been done, run a search. I say why though. Get a profile that suits your engine and required outcome. If you are planning on just wacking them in and gaining a worthwhile performance improvement you would be wrong.

I would say the combination light switch is faulty. Very common on Nissans due to the design.