RB30-POWER

you need to get it to play up at idle preferably and unplug each injector until you find a cylinder not firing/injecting. (you need to listen for a decrease and increase in rpm as you pull and reconnect the plug to tell if that cylinder is operating) easier to pull injector then the coil pack off on these engines. (no dissy leads) if you can isolate it to a single cylinder, it's more then likely the coil, as they have a built in ignitor in r34 models i believe. if every cylinder is doing something, but it still runs rough, go for the cas. the problem will be getting it to play up when you want to test it. edit: of course if you were in a workshop you could use the scope to check the integrity of the pattern on the cas signal lines and also ignition.

with rb25 engines, the gains are very significant with a remapped ecu or powerfc because the standard ecu's are so aggresive and sensitive in their protection parameters, you barely need to fit an exhaust and the boost increases a few psi and you are hitting the limits, even if you can't feel it, throw it on a dyno and the graph will typically be all over the shop with dips and holes in it.

CAS usually work or don't or they cause the car to cut out once they get hot and the car will not start until it cools down again. Your problem sounds more like an ignition module fault to me. If it is the CAS, its a strange problem, if it had a miss all the time, it may have bearing dust blocking some of the optical slots on the disc inside it, but it would have the problem all the time typically.

standard bov are designed to recirculate on idle, so no it will not work if vented as stated. just run without a bov if its only a short term fix. aftermarket bov have a massive spring in them to prevent manifold vacuum from opening them on idle, but it also makes them not as efficient as standard because they have a harder time opening when they do actually need to dump the air.

answer to this is you want bigger get a 90mm ford lightning maf from the states, there is a guy doing 490hp at the treads at only 4.7v, even if it is american hp (not sure on what dyno was used) its still larger and has more resolution then its nissan counterparts.

should pick a vl/r31 alternator from the wreckers for $50. you will need the plug as well, if its different style, cut that off the loom at wreckers, otherwise the alternator bolts straight up. they are only 70amp as against r32 80amp, but will make bugger all difference, especially if your on a budget. otherwise the above sounds like a good deal.

you could drop that 60ft a little bit, especially with an auto. that time is about normal. jamb in more boost and get your mph up to around 105 and you will be doing 13's consistantly.

you want the Z442 filter then, its smaller. but usually only used on R34 model skylines and sr20 pulsars. if you buy a nismo filter its a Z442 filter and says it can be used in place of the larger Z145A filters on the earlier RB's as well. if the Z145A fits, i would use that as its larger and has more filtration media in it. if not get the Z442, but thats odd, only ever seen that smaller filter in R34. http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/ap...n/model/Skyline

haha, yeah, that loop is usless unless you have the nissan timing gun i reckon. i remove no 1 coil and fit a inline ignition lead and clamp my gun pickup onto that. safest and easiest way for correct readings.

the genuine nissan filters are no longer made in japan anyway, they are just cheap indonesian crap with a nissan stamp like everything else, thats why i stopped using them a few years back. i run nothing but ac delco filters now, get them for just under $5 trade and they are very good.

are these the same injectors you were running before plenum upgrade or upgraded injectors? if they were ultrasonically cleaned and left to sit for a while (days-weeks before installation), the pintles tend to stick and do not open, been down this path myself a couple of times, now i don't get injectors cleaned until the day i plan to start the car sorry to explain the basics again! but, 1) remove both fuel hoses from the rail/reg, face both into a bucket, get mate to prime pump (ignition on) fuel should piss out for 5 secs as the pump primes, take note of what hose fuel comes out of! 2) now connect that hose that fuel comes out of onto the inlet to the rail, that is the opposite end of the fuel pressure reg. 3) now get mate to prime pump again (might take a few primes to fill rail, crank it if you prefer) does fuel come out of the fuel pressure reg exit pipe? 4a) if yes, hook the other efi hose back up (return to tank), you know for fact you have fuel. 4b) if fuel does not come out of the reg, the reg is stuck/jammed closed or rail blocked (both highly unlikely) now for spark, 1) remove the coil pack cover, remove no 1 ignition coil (easiest) remove spark plug from engine, 2) push spark plug back into ignition coil, hold the coil pack and make sure the spark plug body is touching a good earth point on engine 3) get your mate to crank engine and check for spark jumping across the electrode tips as engine cranks. 4) once you have confirmed that, remove all 6 spark plugs and make sure they are clean, they may be fouled (look black and wet) from all the stuffing around and they will not fire. its critical they are clean, get some petrol and sand paper and compressed air, clean them good.

you need to find someone with another autronic ecu, load their map into your ecu and see if it runs their car properly, to work out if its an ecu hardware/firmware issue or a engine mechanical issue. speaking of which tried upgrading/downgrading firmware if thats possible?

ohh yeah, sump plug uses a copper washer about 12mm ID and 18mm OD. crush washer is fine also, just need the correct ID to fit over the sum plug obviously.

search would have found what you wanted to know. for r33 its Z145A

it has a variable ground through the fuel pump control module, if your having dramas, fit a new seperate relay and bypass the fuel pump control module altogether. that way your guaranteed full battery voltage and fuel flow.

go to bursons/repco and get a $10 noid light to check for injection pulse.

cut that line in half, slip in your boost bleed tap and adjust. the factory just runs the feed from the intercooler pipe so it measures boost after the pressure drop that occurs across the crappy standard intercoolers. you can run it from either source, just block off the feed you don't use.

ring ray hall and ask him or post on the autronic forums, if you have a legit autronic serial number to sign up with.

when its playing up all the time, running shit/stalling. unplug the airflow meter, and re start the vehicle. sure it will be in limp mode, but if it runs alot better, look at that. its just if the pump was starving, you would not really see shit loads of black smoke out the rear pipe.

err, come again?

need to measure pressure and flow up at the rail to know. otherwise you could guess all day.

3076 is a far better turbo, has the smaller compressor wheel to better suit the turbine wheel. if you go 3040, you would be better off with the 3540, that way you don't have the restrictive hot side and can make full use of the large gt40 compressor wheel, even if you went with a smaller ar housing, it would still be more efficient. people are really beginning to realise what a mismatch the 3040 turbo was, especially when tuning on pump fuel.

i don't understand, you have a gtr cooler fitted already or not? if its fitted already just measure manifold intake temps and that will tell you if you should spend money on the upgrade.

if the car does not have a 3" exhaust and highflow cat (make sure its not blocked either) already look at that first. fit an electronic boost controller to try and smooth out the boost curve. if it still drops, it will either be from the standard turbine wheel not flowing enough gas to keep the compressor spinning hard enough at high engine rpm or it could be excessive back pressure in the turbine housing (small ar) forcing the wastegate open. (try larger wastegate actuator if you want)

co poisoning about the worst i can think of if the leaking gas gets through firewall holes...