RB30-POWER

yeah, just run as low as boost as you can until you get other upgrades. its difficult to damage the engine if you have a standard ecu, it will just retard timing and run rich before it makes enough power for it to pop! i would still be careful but.

series 2 r33 turbo has the nylon style compressor wheel for better spool and increased efficiency blade design + anti surge ridge in housing. r34 neo turbo has the larger OP6 turbine housing as well. depends on what you are after, they are all much and muchness at the end of the day with the ceramic turbine wheel biggest downfall and limitation. i wouldn't really pay more for a series 2 type turbo, when you will more then likely end up rebuilding it anyway...

what about seatbelts?

its not illegal to re-use the drier, but its illegal to carry out dodgy a/c servicing practices. glad to hear, your going to someone who is legit in the industry. the drier ideally should be changed anytime the system has been opened, or exposed to air, once the drier is saturated from moisture in the air it will no longer protect the system from corrosion etc. not to mention it acts as a filter for the system also. for a commodore they are like $20, who wouldn't change it every a/c service, for some euro cars you can pay $100 or more, bit of a joke, but the way it is. no idea what they are worth for a import skyline however.

they are marked on the dissy cap anyway...

no problem at all, apart from the obvious hot air being ingested.

can i ask how old you are, your posts are beginning to sound like a kid on shool holidays is posting the questions, especially all the sms/slang text in your posts? have you done any research at all on the subject? do you understand the costs involved, you talk about the head being cheaper if you go 25, nothing about this will be cheap at all? my advise is if you have the money and are legit, go and approach a well known workshop and get them to build you a package, might be the safest bet, that way you don't need to waste money on R&D and get backup support.

grout fill the block if your serious.

yeah i wouldn't worry, it only takes a couple of seconds to get pressure, because the engine was already hot from when you drained it, there still should be a fair bit of oil hanging around on most components, and if you run an oil like motul with ester or royal purple with molyb, it tends to cling to the parts for a while anyway after shutdown, so you have some protection still even without pressure.

and some info in here, down the bottom, may or may not be of interest, you did say you can't find anything much afterall. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...light=rb25+cams

i would expect 80-90, closer to 90 fixed value but under all conditions, not dropping below 80 thats for sure. it will depend i think partly on the thermostat setting, if its got a low degC rating it could be opening to early and wiping off the heat all the time and keeping it lower then you want. i know there is guys that race here and could tell you for sure how it works, but if your stuck head over to performanceforums and ask "hsvsux" what the typical behaviour is. he track races his rb and has oil coolers, fairly sure with a thermostat system, but have to ask. if its too cold you will not get maximum protection from the oil. edit: i remember on a bmi video, they raced 3 gtrs, r34 v spec, r33 v spec, r32 non v spec, because the r32 didn't have an oil cooler as standard like the others, the driver cooked the oil after a few laps, racing the other gtrs and had to basically slow down and stop, oil was 130+degC off the guage, haha

its 80psi @ pressure relief setting in the factory manual. so if your at 100, a little over, but wouldn't be concerned to much myself. either the pump might be shimmed up, pump off another rb engine or maybe oil viscosity plays a part.

double check the shim/bucket clearances are to spec when cold/hot whatever the specs list. double check the cam lobe is the same as the others. (seen defects on this front before, usually not jap cams but) maybe get that valve spring tested also, might be weak and the valve hung at high rpm and got smashed.

153624

make sure you under stand what you are reading as well with regards to octane it varies in different countries, in australia we use the RON only on the pump to advertise the fuel. but in alot of european, canadian and the united states, they advertise the AKI or PON number which is RON+MON/2, so if someone in the us has 91 octane fuel as they will say, its equivalent to over 96 RON here is aust.

it should work fine putting it into a larger pipe with bigger ID, just not look as crash hot, but you should be able to work something out.

the problem with running it maxed out is you have to compromise run it rich for the max boost you want to run, so any less boost that is not down on a lower load point is filthy rich. the second bigger problem is timing, because you have to retard for more boost, you have to do the same thing, set a low enough figure on the last load cells for the highest boost you want to run, but have boost below that amount and it will be to retarded until it drops low enough to access a lower load point. i have been up this alley recently with a different vehicle and its the shittest setup ever and you risk your engine. the only other way is to setup an air flow meter bypass, but that is still dodgy in my books, easier if you had a twin throttle bodied engine but. this is the biggest problem with air flow meters, once you make serious power it can be a pain in the neck and easier to have gone a speed density system to begin with. the only bigger maf is know of that will work is the ford lightning 90mm air flow meter, old mate in the us is using one and its only at 4.7V at 490rwhp, so its a real bad boy!!!

go gtr ecu with twin afms. just get two $30 chiptorque shiftlights, they are small, throw away the light but use the output to drive a relay to turn the vct solenoid on at xxxx rpm then use the second one to turn on a second relay (normally closed here) to open circuit the first relay and the vct solenoid will turn off. otherwise im sure jaycar do a freqency switch, unsure if it has two set points but, thats why i suggested the above or similar. vct is the easiest part to solve really.

i remember a guy on here fitted poncams and lost power, anyone know if he ever worked out what happened? that was a strange case indeed... considering most people pick up midrange with them, as you should too!

let us know what you find either way

even so, response with that turbo will not be an issue.

just chop it off and be done with it. fairly sure it only triggers the light when it goes closed circuit, not open circuit, so you chop it and it never comes on. just check your cat is not blocked while your at it, usually if the cat is blocked you loose power and would be well aware of it anyway. otherwise if your really keen, just go to your local nissan delear with your vin code and get a price on a replacement, simple ey?

unless your attached to your particular car, i wouldn't bother personally. go proper factory turbo car , that way you get the bigger gearbox, 5 stud wheels, bigger brakes, engine etc all ready to roll out of the box and it has the factory build tags to match. do the NA models have LSD and the same gearing?

i wouldn't go out of your way to do cams, that turbo still sounds small in the scheme of things. until your doing towards a consistant 300rwkw at the treads, i wouldn't waste money personally, the gains per $ just not worth it. if your got money to blow but, go ahead...

RB20DE, DET, RB25DE, RB25DET Series 1, all use the 4 wire green label air flow meter. Rb25DET Series 2, has a 3 wire pink label air flow meter, has the same calibration and air flow capacity as earlier models, just the different wiring. Look in the private trader section for sale forums on here, you should pay around $50 for a green label with a plug. Yes you can use it on the SR20DE, with slightly modified plumbing due to the increased 80mm sized RB air flow meters, should drop pressure drop in inlet track by a measurable amount, if you have looked at the SR20DE air flow meter, you can see how small it gets in the centre. You will need to change VQ map in the ecu to suit the RB air flow meter and rescale the K value to suit. (if you are not using stock ecu or interceptor disregard that)