RB30-POWER

Little sceptical, inlet temp is rather high 42degC, would prefer the sensor left off car altogether or reading more similar reading to ambient, as it increases hp figures by a fair wack that sensor and people play funny buggers with it all the time, not directly auggesting it in this case, but... Look at effys car, unpluged it and got like 150hp extra. (thats the extreme side, having it completely disconnected)

so does that have cams done on it at all? what fuel? those injectors must be near 100%? nice work either way

Forgot about that thread, ok a couple of guys border lining 300rwkw/400hp... If anyone has link to dyno graph of legend01, link me please. (couldn't find it) No one seems significantly over it, i'm sure there has to be some offshore cars that do something noteworthy. I don't care if its a built engine or stock standard, if it runs race fuel or pump, I just want to see one that makes some numbers one way or the other for the record. Cheers

Hey Guys, Sure someone will know here, it became apparent to me a while back that I have not ever seen (from memory) an RB20 make over 300rwkw? If anyone has a link to vid of one making some good power let me know please. Like a few months back, I went to a dyno day, a Silvia or some crap rolls on, pops hood, RB20 with a great big f**k off turbo, thought, ok here we go, this should have some balls, couldn't even crack 280rwkw, WTF? Is it no one modifies these engines or can the head not flow enough air or something without big $? What were the old red tops making back in the Group A days with the T4's and race fuel? I know the practicality of modding to have power like i'm talking above is not very great, but how often are extreme car mods ever practical anyway. Have the Japs bolted a T88 to one or what? Cheers

was the engine warm when tested? if not the pistons haven't expanded and aren't sealing properly. was it cranking with a good battery supply voltage? lower voltage = lower crank rpm = lower readings cam belt could be out a tooth or anything to drop the reading a little. all stuff you would check before installing the engine. sounds fine to me mate if its even across the board.

well on idle its closed, under heavy load its closed, so for people to say it affects performance is probably wrong, the only time it will do that us if the valve is faulty and leaking etc, which can be reasonbly common on older vacuum operated systems, but with the new electronic operated valves with feedback, if you have a problem the engine light will come on to let you know. i've always wondered if the egr system helps fuel economy or makes it worse during cruise. you would naturally say worse because of the contaminated/reduced clean air charge, but because you may need to use more throttle opening for the same power/torque output as the same engine without an egr system, wouldn't this actually help reduce pumping losses a little and actually aid economy?

yeah wtf, rb engines don't have an egr valve, what engine are you refering too?

400rwkw is the limit usually found with a single 044 pump. you could bump the pressure a bit, but remember whatever boost you run that pressure adds to your base fuel pressure. i.e 50psi base and 30psi boost = 80psi fuel pressure. i would look at twin pumps myself, if your going for more power, or up the pressure a little to see if its possible to lower the duty cycle a bit if you are happy as it is.

send me a pm mate with the company name. can't have this crap going on. hope it all works out...

apparently there is a noob on this site that made over 300rwkw with stock cams and coils dunno if i believe him but i would go turbo first. 300hp is nothing really, walk in the park for rb25, focus on boltons and you will get best bang for your buck.

thats normal to have a loss of that much power when your talking the power your car makes. you should know more then anyone to turn the crank over twice (one engine cycle) and re-check the timing marks on the timing gears however on a side note these are the typical gains that can be had if you have a set of cams that require dialing in with adjustable cam gears, even if you put the cams to factory spec/timing marks you don't make the power you can if you dial them in properly to the engine as per specs supplied by cam manufacturer. poncams seem to make best power when setup to standard specs however from all reports.

you need to fit a seperate sensor for the water temp guage, you can't just go piggybacking the factory ecu coolant temp sensor. its an nct thermistor so as soon as you alter its resistance by additional wiring and loads, it will give false readings to the ecu. fit a seperate sensor and disonnect it asap before it burns out the pullup network in the ecu for good.

ohh ok, if you go putting it onto the oil breather pipe, you will be letting unmetered (by air flow meter) air to enter engine and it will run lean and stall at idle. also it illegal and you will end up with oil shooting everywhere under the hood, once the filter is saturated. you could use one on top of a catch can, once you bypass the PCV system, but its still illegal.

best option would be to put a bung into the compressor cover or weld a nipple onto the cooler piping as per factory. manifold will work, but less then ideal because it will supply vacuum to the wastegate diapraghm which is not the best thing to do.

R32 what? RB20DE, RB20DET, RB25DE, RB26DETT ? they are all different is size, but all top feed, so no R33 will not fit unless its an RB26DETT engine you have. you can not change size unless you reprogram the ecu either, so you must get the correct ones for the vehicle you have. my advise is get a good s/hand set and get them ultrasonically cleaned if they need replacing for whatever reason.

oil breather?? you mean an oil catch can?

i don't really think you will have much trouble unless you make the vac lines excessively long, glovebox through fire wall is not all that far away. easy to try however, just throw it under the hood for testing but make the vac lines heaps long, if it works, then move the solenoid to the glovebox, if it doesn't work as good as expected you will have to keep it under the bonnet, but atleast you didn't waste your time running all the lines through the firewall just to test it. just tell the cops, its the carbon canister purge solenoid and tell them your external gate is an EGR valve. (they wouldn't know what that shit was more then likely anyway)

easy to check this in a couple of way. 1) get a 12v test light and connect it across the two terminals that plug onto the solenoid (disconnect the plug first of course) start car, rev it and off idle it should light up to indicate that the ecu is actually supplying a switching signal/power to the solenoid wiring plug. 2) get some small jumper leads with aligator clips (jaycar dse etc) with vct solenoid electrical plug disconnected still, connect each terminal to a 12V battery supply and earth, if you hear it make a loud click, you know its working mechanically also. if you do this with car running at idle you should hear engine change note as well, might run rougher with it powered up. uncommon for that to fail however, more then likely the timing gears or belt is out a tooth or so, check cas timing once you have the belt on properly also.

whilst the gtrs back in the day were fast, it was only when they were going. reliability was shithouse, especially early on in the piece, split engine blocks, diffs, driveshafts, turbos etc all failing regularly. http://www.thegodzilla.com/race-history-of-the-godzilla.php funny thing to read, how they could use the 4wd to get out of the sand pits however, as if thats not unfair advantage, haha...

VTC mapping code has some of the following functionality minimum coolant temp for VTC actuation maximum coolant temp for VTC actuation minimum vehicle speed for VTC actuation minimum TP for VTC actuation (only if RPM is UNDER ON point) minimum RPM for VTC actuation maximum RPM for VTC actuation idle position on/off in general however on RB25, it turns on when you come "off idle" and then turns off at around 4500rpm again. the theory is simple, you want it turned off on idle to reduce overlap and get a dead smooth idle, off idle you want extra overlap for power and torque during the midrange and the only reason it turns off again is because somewhere along the line, you make more power with it off because of the excessive backpressure in the exhaust manifold which prevents cylinder filling efficieny. its easier to fill without the backpressure trying to go back into the chamber from the higher overlap.

i'll put it down to the hot side being to restrictive, causing high back pressure on the manifold side of the turbo and forcing open the wastegate. how much power do you think can be put through an op6 turbine housing, its designed for standard power, sure the highflow wheel will help, but only so far. if you want every last bit possible, get it power ported as well. a 1 bar actuator might help a bit, but that will become your lowest possible boost setting remember.

why would it break? it will only break if it detonates, if its tuned correctly it will last for a very long time. maybe it runs race fuel or toluene all the time as a safety measure. rbs are a well built and engineered engine from factory, unsure why everyone is so paranoid, crap tuning kills them, not power.

My brother had his rocker covers, coil cover and cam gear cover done in bayside blue. He said he was suprised, that when it was mixed by the painter it has so many pearls and metallic additives in it. Ended up costing a bit to because of that reason. So i suppose its going to be possible to not follow the required amounts exactly and get differing results.

the new commy engines both v8 and v6 are returnless along with a heap of other cars. i've read a few articles where people have modified the system in the tank with the reg, but it hardly seems worth it to change a vehicle to this setup unless its already the standard system on the vehicle that your working with. the returnless fuel system architecture eliminates fuel system recirculation, this design minimises fuel heating, reducing fuel tank temperatures and consequent evaporative emissions. an integral pressure damper is used inside the fuel rail to reduce noise. so unless your worried about emissions, lol...