RB30-POWER

this here shows what i am talking about, most people that sell the sard regs should be able to help. http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant...ct_Code=XA69014 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Fuel-Regulator-rail...VQQcmdZViewItem

bump.

unless you have an oil light coming on at idle you have nothing to worry about mate with regards to oil pressure. just enjoy your new ride and do regular maintenance.

fairly sure you just buy an adapter, this is what you need to buy when you use a sard reg on them, as they are a seperate reg from the rail, unlike say a nismo that bolts straight on. you will be able to buy the adapter seperately, just hit ebay or something. its just bolts on and gives you a normal barb fitting to run hose to a seperate reg.

zoom tried that a few years back on a couple of cars with various power outputs, one was a gtr from memory, indexing the plugs made zippo difference in power and torque when back to back dyno tested.

the idea is sound in respect to the electrode and tip having the potential to disturb gases around the spark plug firing point in the combustion chamber, its the reason most manufacturers do not recommend spark plugs with multiple tips (usually 2 or 4) around the electrode. (good for plug service life but not performance or economy related to spark because they effectively shroud the spark) once you cut the tip off, you would loose the iridium or platinum plate on the tip also if this is the type of plug you were using and result would be faster wear rates. longterm because the electrode tip is flat, wide and designed for a tip directly above it, your making it now jump from one side, it would wear rather quickly and become effectively a wider gap much sooner then if it was left as designed. (the plugs that do jump to the side have multiple tips, so would allow better wear, but the issue as originally said, shrouded spark) the iridium ix or denso iridium power plugs now have smaller electrodes, v shape tips and tapered tips all to assist in spark performance but still offer a good service life, so to go and try backjard hack jobs would not be worth the tradeoffs IMHO.

if you know someone with nissan consult, get them to plug it in diagnostic port and check the actual temp. should be around 80deg or so. you don't want it running cold and causing excessive fuel consumption and engine wear and tear. laser thermometer on top radiator hose also is not a bad idea if you have one handy.

thermostat stuck open, faulty gauge or faulty temp sender. could be any of the above. gauge can be tested with gauge tester or resistor of known value, sender can be checked with multimeter and compare resistance to specs, thermostat can be removed and visually inspected and also thrown into boiling water with thermometer and check operation is as per specs. everything can be tested really easy (if you know what your doing) and shouldn't cost much either if you go to a pro to get it looked out. 1/2 hour you could diagnose it for sure.

Hey Guys, Have the following for sale Powerup 2 Stage Boost Controller, comes with everything in pic, only need to hook up two wires and its ready to go, I labeled all the wires so it easy for anyone to setup, comes with original instructions also. Very good controller, I used it for last couple of years, but have now updated to full electronic controller. $100 inc post. Also have RB25DET oil pressure sender as pictured, came from a 40k motor, not needed as engine went into vehicle that required different sender. I know these stuff up a fair bit, so if you want to replace a suspect sender this is for you. SOLD

the price of prefab frount mount cooler kits these days, thats the best way to go. the r34 cooler whilst better then r33 item, is still shit, when you consider what you most likely will pay. get the FMIC and will not need be upgraded again in future.

save yourself the hassle and stick with a set of jap cams. tomei, hks etc that have specs to meet your requirements. i'm not going to go into details about local companies, but for said engine, i'm just telling you so you can avoid potential headaches. is the local stuff any cheaper anyway? the guys at nissansilvia would have direct experiences with cams for SR series engines, maybe pay them a visit, they aren't all knobs, some are ok...

is the new gtr engine direct injection, surely it would be?

mackay do 1m length as well, go to their website and check their catalogue again! also gates is the only other mob that do the proper sae30r10 in tank efi fuel hose.

there is a fuel pump relay, and also a fuel pump fuse. fuse supplies relay, relay supplies pump with +12v. so if you don't have +12v at pump, check those out. the fuel pump control module supplies a variable ground/earth to the pump to control pump speed. so it has nothing to do with that, if its only +12 supply you need.

lol, should have read the post better to begin with...

how much boost for that power mate, im guessing atleast 18psi+

yeah sorry, it was white in colour thats all I could tell, could not make out much more, firies and coppers all in the way, also being on the highway there was no where to stop and take a sticky beek.

Anyone else happen to see the R32 crashed on the Pacific Highway this morning northbound lane of the Charlestown s bends just after StopMaster Brakes, was around 7:45AM? Couldn't tell if it was a GTR or GTST, was a mess anyhow. Unsure how it happened because it was bent like a bannana on the inside lane possibly around a pole, maybe alcohol was involved. If your on here mate, hope your ok.

if your curious. the two sounds you describe is the fuel pump changing voltage, this is normal. on idle the fuel pump control module reduces the voltage to the pump, to prevent noise and excessively heating the fuel, once you open the throttle it goes to full voltage mode, so it makes more noise.

you can't just put in bigger injectors in or you will use more fuel and your car will run like crap. you must retune the ecu maps and reduce the injector pulsewidth to maintain original air fuel ratios. once you have corrected the fuel maps your fuel usage will not change at all.

if you had a vac leak the car would be running like shit afterwards. whats it running like, small vac leak would be most evident at idle?

do a leak down with the engine hot to determine actual engine condition. it will be far more indicative of engine health then a compression test.

yeah true, but they have a lower static compression ratio and sohc/smaller ports, so kind of puts them lineball at the end of the day. the point i was getting at, is if your not planning to make that sort of power, why not run a smaller turbo or housing to reduce lag where possible. no use having extra lag if you only want to push it 50%

this thread isn't to bad if your interested in getting an idea on power outputs from gt35 turbos http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...;highlight=gt35

may or may not be directly related to what you guys are talking about but, alot of newer cars now that are emissions friendly, have tumble or swirl valves to help air fuel mix and gain better emissions and lower fuel economy. on the honda lean burn engines, they close one valve altogether to aid swirl and they run 22:1 air fuel ratio under light cruise conditions. all the above is good, but hard to implement in the aftermarket so your stuck with the base motor you have from factory.