Stephen Thorpe

After a few times all jobs should remarkably reduce in time required.

Oh, yes maybe I was thinking door lock actuators... not window winder. Anyway, I still take my time, hate doing things twice, bescause I didn't locktite something, or adjust it, clean or polish it. As for Beer "Brake" (sic), nope never during... just a Bourbon as I finish the job. So Chris, the first one you did would be 4 hrs would it? It is just you have experience now though!

You snooze you loose... Subs in the spare wheel well would be fine if you put a grill over the speaker (firing up), fine open weave material over the grill and a trim panel (3mm Masonite) around the grill, replacing the original boot 'board'. Doubt you should put a suitcase on the grill though. I would have a go at doing it if there wasn't another option... rattles are the biggest problem though. Now it is a car audio thread... oh how we digress. Sorry!

The first Jet assisted Hyundai Lantra i'd reckon... didn't know that above Conrad Straight is a vertical cliff!

At the side of the road, there is lots of back and forth movements to do to achieve the desired result, moving jacks and stuffing around. Front Tyre flat, Spare out and put on rear, take front off and put the old rear on the front, then find a spot to place the full sized assembly that is flat. Is this only a Pain in the arse for a flat front and if you have brembo's? Surely, there is another option with a larger space saver? Get the Grinder out!!

As long as the tyre weld works... it won't fix sidewall damage, although neither will a repair at the tyre shop!

I doubt that you will get much downforce at legal speeds... but on a fast track you would probably need a wind tunnel to prove it. It is a fairly exact science. Tyres and Pressures would be easier to deal with as a change. If you have coil overs, camber kits or adjustable Sway bars that will help more too.

my 104 issue, is not here. Just got Zoom/Boost issue 1 today, so HPI may be tomorrow!

who's going to post?

Chris... and an hour and a half? you must be joking! That'll take me 4 hours, disassemble, fault find, replace, clean, tighten all bits inspect door and put back together. With another clean at the end.

Lovely ride and well worth the money if a buyer wants to pay for it... however as a few have said before you will not get the money you've spent on a car. You can barely do that with property and that is considered an investment. You still have to get it right though. Unfortunately Cars are generally (a few exceptions) not a place to invest cash. Good luck though. Incidentially, how many k's on purchase, start of mods and how many after mods? Total k's now? Is it engineered?

Agree... in the car industry it is something that luxo barges look for, where is, I want the luxo feel until I open the flood gates then I want to be bashed around. I reckon a reduction in NVH causes the car to lose connection with the road.

you what... 4 function equations... a "solveable simultaneous equation" that sounds like it can be done... it's solveable duh... I give up.

Oh, I thought you knew... you were so close with this response that I ignored the "please explain" response. NVH means Noise Vibration and Harshness... mainly to do with most things that are engineered, especially Cars.

I think what BLISTC was saying is that there is NVH (Presumably Slight) that is felt "through the shifter and the gear pedal however" he considers "it to be normal"

If it is all new, has it bed in yet? Perhaps your clutch pack is out of balance. As for 'moving away' no problems if you are happy with what you do. Clutch clearances are very minimal though.

Good point there...

How are the clutch plates, are they glazed because that will cause massive vibration... You mention the clutch bearing is new but if the plate has a bit of uneven wear or is 'polished' it will cause a bad vibration when the gear engages. Also, I am sorry to say but if you rest your foot on the clutch, you will cause this glazing of the friction plate and you will need to stop that. At the very least, if you are hoping that it is a warranty fix I would suggest that you don't publicise it too much.

that was meant to be funny, just in case no one got it.

When you consider most of the 'private' Mobile Speed Camera Cars in Victoria are heavily tinted, I'd see the bas*ards in court. They are never legal.

Back on Topic

Huh... wtf? There's an offer!

Nice, pretty much what i would like but I haven't started looking as such again.

Looks good! So you only did the doors, does that mean the rear side glass is still standard 'privacy' glass. Correct? If that is the case it seems to match really well. Just for the record, most Tint films are Metal based as this offers more life... Plastic films degrade quicker than the Metal Film. Although the metal types reduce the effectiveness of Ultrasonic alarm use and radio reception..

Ok, good work and I vote you Chris 2IC! Whatch your back Chris... So what did you save, what was the part worth? So, if we get the same problem we can come and see you about the supply of a Robot Arm Servo.