Stephen Thorpe

Isn't Brembo's still an option on the 05/06 models anyway? I am sure that there have been frequently fitted on the later models.

Whilst engine is running, use a plastic handled screwdriver on the bit you think is noisy, put ear to handle and listen... do not put head, hands or screwdriver in spinning engine bits!! Stop engine, disconnect belt and spin alternator by hand, does it feel right? Is there any play in the bearing or end float in the shaft, is there any tight spots, does it make noise and does it feel smooth. Then check that belt has no cracks in it, bend it backwards and look for shiny spots too... Re-install belt and tension correctly, if a belt is not tensioned correctly bearing type noises can occur. Start car and spray belt with a spray that is designed for reducing noise in v or spline belts. Available in all Auto shops and isn't expensive and last for ages, do not use much. If the noise is still there and whilst the car is running, use a multimeter to make sure the voltage is correct at the battery terminals (13+ volts - 13.8-14.4v is best). Sometimes a bush inside alternator will make noise and this sometimes effects charging. Doubtful though. As for cost, Nissan wanted $1400 for an Alternator and $300 for the regulator at Trade prices for my R33 GTS-T.

As for the adaptor for the TV, didn't know it was only NTSC, can you not play PAL stuff on it?

No, no... Just hasn't 'met' chook before, I knew it was a person just not sure who or how!! Just thought Mr 'Buck' Rogers was the only messaih around here, didn't know there was another naughty boy. (Check Monty Python if you don't understand) As for the reference to Nth Melbourne, didn't you see the 'chookgate' scandal late last week?

chook? Is that something to do with North Melbourne?

Not sure about others, but Geelong tells you every task that is done as per the service recommendations. You can request anything else to de done too. As for the CVT Oil changing, seems like a good idea.

As you said unfortunately... 2 many people are judged on presentation these days and that is a real shame, however if that occurs to me the sale is normally lost. Having a nice car or house does not show you to be worth diddly squat. I am sorry to say this, if I choose to look at a car in T-Shirt and thongs it makes no difference to the amount of money I have.

Geelong have a few loan cars, but you will need to book prior... make a day of it and see what you think.

Geelong...? pw350gt grease door hinges? Do you really need that? I know my guys do, if it is needed...

When you find a nice dealer... let me know especially if they have a bit of spotless stock in manual, Premium. Good luck!

Me, 34 - Shannons Ins on R33 GTS-T fully modified Category agreed value of $16,000, good record is about $1200 a year tho I have a GSXR600 Road bike too. Got a quote for a $40,000 V35 and it was a LOT cheaper, from memory around $800 - No Turbo!! Call them and talk... Just Cars ex-customer - Shannons cheaper and offer multi-vehicle discount.

Really nice... lots of dough but a lot for a bit! GL with sale.

and an idea in english?

Big problem here, you need to go back to the shop and throw the new set-up at them. You tyre and wheel combo is now bigger diameter (9mm) and your speedo and gearing will have changed... the difference is not a lot but it may be why your tyres are scraping the guards. Profile = Old tyre 205/55/16 - 55% of 205mm wide = 112.75mm New tyre 215/45/17 - 45% of 215mm wide = 96.75mm Plus Wheel diameter Old 16" = 406.4mm New 17" = 431.8mm = a total diameter of Old 519.15mm New 528.55 Regardless of the tread on the specific tyre you now have a larger set-up. If you check different tyres (Brand and Type) in the same size the rolling diameter will nearly always be different, so if you have a 'larger' tyre this will add to your problems. The new tyre is not the right size. However at standard height, I doubt this should be a concern. Something still may be amiss.

Why can we not keep the old tyres, Japanese Tyres still meet the same standard, don't they? In fact comparing a lot of Aussie Cars with Jap imports, there are heaps of local cars out there with really, really poor tyres fitted, worn unevenly, bald and cheap rubbish all over the place. I don't think I have have seen more than a handful of Jap imports with a a worn or illegal tyre.

Tell him to drive drive Sideways Chris...

Easily fixed... drive Sideways, come on Rianto... think logically man.

good work and a fair price, just treat it right now... Black is so painful and you have to be spot on with it from now on.

agree on the Turbo thing... but as I said they might still go the same way. V35's are still a bit expensive for Tom, Dick and Abdul and yes without a Turbo there is a difference, so here's hoping. Just an opinion...

Very nice job, looks really good and you have some good photo's too prove it... Must look better in the flesh and you must be very happy. Would have been nice to see the car at the start, but the swirl marks near the start are good enough. Only one issue that I can see if I am being critical is the fact that both of the guys had cigarettes whilst they were working. Other than that you should be pleased... was it price effective?

Back on topic... Install a line locker to the rear brake hydraulics... hit the switch to disconnect... first gear in manual mode left foot hard on brake pedal right foot on accelerator and dial up 2,500 - 3,000 rpm as the christmas tree lights up remove left foot and gradually apply more accelerator pedal. or buy a manual and side step the clutch at 5,000 rpm! No responsibility taken on above advice, but it will work a few times! As for prices falling, I would hate to see them become the new R33... but I think they might. Hope I can get mine before I am known as "one of those Skyline owners" :D

Sorry about this but I am not sure that Paul was being rude, but he does have a point and without trying to be 'unhelpful' it would be better if Sir-black32 asked this question where people with R32's frequent. Specifically but rheotorically, how does a V35, equate to an R32 with our without rolled guards? Rolling a V35 guard for a Tyre to Guard mount problem will not be the same as rolling the guard for a R32, even 'if' it had the same size wheel and tyre on it. To mention my R33 Gts-t... someone had fitted GTR front Shocks to it when I bought it so it used to run out of travel on high speed corners with bumps, never hit the guard though only the inner plastic guard. If you didn't know the GTR front shock is about 40mm shorter than the RWD only GTS-T. Some things to consider if I am trying to be helpful. Do you have the correct size tyre for the rim? Do you have the correct size wheel/tyre assembly for the car? Is your ride height appropriate, ie more than 100mm minimum? Are you front springs too soft? Are you front shocks too short - see above? Are you front shocks out of oil? Are your front shocks leaking?

So what are you looking at, have you made a decision yet?

Wouldn't ever buy Dunlop, not even Dunlop Volleys. Stick with the Michelins, I think they are generally a little more cost effective (cheaper over kays) than Bridgestones.

Sorry, I can not help with that issue but I just needed to let you know that... "Break" is what normally happens to the front of the car when you do not "brake" hard enough.